kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Where is your trailing at? If your at -4 try -3.
Lighter oil up front. I run 32.5 Losi.
Could also try lead in the nose. I squeezed 1/2 in mine. There are pockets in the bulkhead that are perfect for this.
Softer front spring.
Stiffer rear spring.
Rear hubs all the way back.

The Juice

iTrader: (25)

I havent, whats your thought on that? Putting it forward would add some weight?


Dont remember, see the front adjustment but not the rear..?? From reading up it says it affects the rear if changed....not true?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

more antisquat will lock the rear end in when your on-power and let it rotate more when your off-power. Check to see what your running, this is kinda an important setting.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

The shorty really lets the weight transfer in this car, I have driven a side by side comparison, and its such a difference. Jumping, cornering etc everything is a little quicker to react. If you dont have one, lmk I have a decent practice pack or 2 that I am looking to sell. They are decent, but are losing their punch towards the end of a run (8-10 min). May be a cheap experiment for you.. I run mine almost all the way forward, about a 1" from the forward mount.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Believe it or not, add a tick of drag brake. Its your friend.

CHIZZLE

iTrader: (37)

FYI, adding washers to your camber link lowers your roll center. However, it's still the right direction for what you're looking for.

CHIZZLE

iTrader: (37)

Hmm, I never thought of that. Not a bad idea at all.

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

I always run a little bit of drag brake. Really helps the buggy transfer weight easier, and can help in the air getting the noise down easier for those running RM4.

The Juice

iTrader: (25)

Lots of good ideas to try, thanks.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

Whats a good setup someone can recommend for this track

+ YouTube Video

Im now going from MM to RM and won't get a lot of time for warm up and testing things.

Thanks

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

IMO, I would start here:

-Dark blue front w/40 oil, 1.3 4 hole
-Dark green rear w/35 oil, 1.2 4 hole
-RM4
-Battery all the way back
-Longest wheelbase on front & rear hubs
-3rd inner hole on rear hub
-Neg. 1° all around (go more neg. if you're loosing side bite on outer tire in turns)
-Slight toe out front
-3.5° rear toe
-Whatever tire works for the locals or slicks all around if the clay is tacky

Again, I'm only going off what the track looks like and what those 4wd buggies are driving like.

From what it looks like, it's medium bite clay that isn't very forgiving when traction breaks. Lockdown the tire setup and you're 90% there.

Take some Hot Bodies Gigabites or Proline Square Fuzzies with you, and Bar Codes or BK Bars.
Front tires, probably something in a low profile treaded, like the AKA Vector or Proline Scrubs.

Gear the car for good low-end punch, but make sure the motor you have is smooth in the lower rpm. Easy on the throttle and keep the rear suspension loaded.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

What do you mean here?
The hand out tires are AKA REBAR SS and AKA S inserts
Should I use a losi shorty or regular size?

With the battery all the way back isn't that going to raise the front on throttle and make it a bit harder to steer? I tried the shorty today on carpet (ahh high grip ) and that happened

Last time I drove there it wasn't with the 210 and they were spraying it with dust ex to help with grip, not sure they will do it here but hopefully the grip will increase during the day and even more for the 4wd the day after.

Have a 410 setup maybe as well?

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

I have a dex210 for sale. It is in the for sale tread got some extras with it make me an offer for it all or I'll sell the shocks separate from the chassis.

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

In the world of real car racing, you keep the rear suspension loaded by never really coming off the throttle. In the car I drive, SCCA Formual Vee, the engine is in the middle behind the driver, and in front of the rear wheels. If you lift completely in a turn, the rear-end becomes light and the car rotates very easily, which can sometimes make you spin. By keeping some throttle in the car you don't completely unload the full weight of the rear of the car to the front, and this can help with traction.

With the battery all the way back, it will keep as much weight in the rear-end as possible, which will help with traction. I would definitely try a shorty in practice and see how much grip there is on the track. If there is enough that you can't get the car to turn, move the battery forward some. You can also get more front steering by running trailing axles instead of inline.

Remember it's always easier to take out traction from the car than it is to add it.

Sorry, don't have my 410 yet.

I don't like the AKA Rebar, but that's what you have to use, then it will have to work. I'd try to beat the hell out of the rears as much as possible. The closer you can get those tires to look like slicks, the better. If they allow it, you can also do either one of these mods below. Obviously, try the less noticeable option, being the first one.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10300962-post214.html

murky123

I use this setup http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...112/index.html

with a fullsize "heavy" stickpack all the way up in the front it gives good steering and still keeping the rear locked