80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
12-18-2011, 03:00 AM
#2911
I make them to sell. It's a new product.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83523
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83523
12-18-2011, 05:45 AM
#2912
Tech Adept
The 210 spur is 87T and to use motors like 13.5 and 10.5 you really need to have a smaller spur to allow the gearing to be better. I found that I had to run a smaller spur with my 7.5 so am running a 83T with 24T pinion. The RW spur gears also seem to be much more round in their manufacturing than the stock Durango gears and are hence quieter and more efficient.
12-18-2011, 06:44 AM
#2913
ARE YOU SERIOUS
.... I put the Hexes on Backwards........LOLThat Makes sense....
For the life of me i couldnt figure it out... even looked at ONLINE manual
Thanks tom and Capt. Even if ya didnt understand me...LOL
Stav
12-18-2011, 08:30 AM
#2914
Once you get the car on the track, and get a good set-up its aces..
12-18-2011, 06:30 PM
#2915
Brandon, will be great if you can post your set up!
12-18-2011, 07:05 PM
#2916
12-18-2011, 07:44 PM
#2917
..I can only laugh like that because I did the same thing at first!!!...must be our 1/8 scale instincts Stav?!?!?!
12-18-2011, 09:06 PM
#2919
12-18-2011, 09:16 PM
#2920
I haven't had problems with mine, but I did finally have a ball cup pop off, but in a head on collision, that's all that happened, surprised my hand made front camber mount didnt let go..lol The car has been just as durable or better than any car I have owned, and my set-up is improving every time out.
12-18-2011, 11:03 PM
#2922
OK, for those of you that have been waiting, here is my final setup sheet. Final that is until I find a way to improve upon it. The ultimate goal of this setup was to balance the car for a typical rear-motor setup, and to greatly increase the amount of on-power and off-power steering. There is limited space on the setup sheet to type notes, so I will preface it with some information here. The link to the setup sheet is at the bottom.
1. If you run on a different type of surface, with a different level of overall grip/traction, you are going to want less roll stiffness than I am running here. When traction levels are up on my track, it's not uncommon to traction roll. One setup cannot work for all track conditions, so this setup may not work for your track. Just keep that in mind. If you want to run this general setup, but run with different levels of traction, don't hesitate to PM me. Id be happy to help you with some subtle changes to tailor the setup to your track.
2. My track is pretty smooth, so I typically don't have to keep my suspension soft, to handle lots of small bumps or ruts. The shock setup here is designed to handle medium sized jumps.
3. Pay attention to my pistons, oil weight, and spring choice. I spent a LOT of time balancing the front and rear chassis rising frequency ... first by spring only, and then damped. This keeps the car very predictable coming in and out of turns as the front and rear of the car work together, instead of fighting each other. This allows you to push the car harder than you could otherwise, and the car will resist becoming unsettled.
4. Steering on and off throttle can be changed quite a bit by droop. Pay attention to my notes on how I measure droop. I don't measure wishbone length as that that method is an inaccurate way to measure droop. I measure actual chassis droop/rise instead.
5. Chassis weight balance is a bit different with this car I found. The rear of the car is quite a bit heavier than any other buggy I have driven, and therefor found the shorty lipo moved forward beyond the normal battery stop was the best way to achieve front to rear balance. I used foam pads to precisely place my battery. Instead of adding weight to the front of the buggy, I subtracted weight from the rear by running the short lipo farther forward than allowed normally. This keeps the buggy lighter and more responsive. I found the buggy to a) be too heavy, and b) have too little steering with a full sized lipo. Here is a picture of my battery placement. For placement, I removed the normal battery stop, and ran a 15mm foam pad up against the back of my full sized servo, which moved the lipo 14mm farther forward.
Moving from a full sized lipo to a shorty lipo put the car into a whole other league, and at least for now, I consider it an absolute must have for this buggy.
6. Even though I am running the Akura front carbon tower, the roll center placement matches what I have dictated on the setup sheet for the factory front shock tower.
7. I am running the original ball cups found on the 4wheeler and SC trucks. I found the HD ball cups to be too hard, resulting in a lot of unnecessary popped ball cups.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
Battery Placement
Finisher Shell
---> Setup Sheet <----
Brandon_Collins_Dex210_Setupsheet.pdf
1. If you run on a different type of surface, with a different level of overall grip/traction, you are going to want less roll stiffness than I am running here. When traction levels are up on my track, it's not uncommon to traction roll. One setup cannot work for all track conditions, so this setup may not work for your track. Just keep that in mind. If you want to run this general setup, but run with different levels of traction, don't hesitate to PM me. Id be happy to help you with some subtle changes to tailor the setup to your track.
2. My track is pretty smooth, so I typically don't have to keep my suspension soft, to handle lots of small bumps or ruts. The shock setup here is designed to handle medium sized jumps.
3. Pay attention to my pistons, oil weight, and spring choice. I spent a LOT of time balancing the front and rear chassis rising frequency ... first by spring only, and then damped. This keeps the car very predictable coming in and out of turns as the front and rear of the car work together, instead of fighting each other. This allows you to push the car harder than you could otherwise, and the car will resist becoming unsettled.
4. Steering on and off throttle can be changed quite a bit by droop. Pay attention to my notes on how I measure droop. I don't measure wishbone length as that that method is an inaccurate way to measure droop. I measure actual chassis droop/rise instead.
5. Chassis weight balance is a bit different with this car I found. The rear of the car is quite a bit heavier than any other buggy I have driven, and therefor found the shorty lipo moved forward beyond the normal battery stop was the best way to achieve front to rear balance. I used foam pads to precisely place my battery. Instead of adding weight to the front of the buggy, I subtracted weight from the rear by running the short lipo farther forward than allowed normally. This keeps the buggy lighter and more responsive. I found the buggy to a) be too heavy, and b) have too little steering with a full sized lipo. Here is a picture of my battery placement. For placement, I removed the normal battery stop, and ran a 15mm foam pad up against the back of my full sized servo, which moved the lipo 14mm farther forward.
Moving from a full sized lipo to a shorty lipo put the car into a whole other league, and at least for now, I consider it an absolute must have for this buggy.
6. Even though I am running the Akura front carbon tower, the roll center placement matches what I have dictated on the setup sheet for the factory front shock tower.
7. I am running the original ball cups found on the 4wheeler and SC trucks. I found the HD ball cups to be too hard, resulting in a lot of unnecessary popped ball cups.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
Battery Placement
Finisher Shell
---> Setup Sheet <----
Brandon_Collins_Dex210_Setupsheet.pdf
Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-18-2011 at 11:20 PM.
12-19-2011, 03:19 AM
#2925
OK, for those of you that have been waiting, here is my final setup sheet. Final that is until I find a way to improve upon it. The ultimate goal of this setup was to balance the car for a typical rear-motor setup, and to greatly increase the amount of on-power and off-power steering. There is limited space on the setup sheet to type notes, so I will preface it with some information here. The link to the setup sheet is at the bottom.
1. If you run on a different type of surface, with a different level of overall grip/traction, you are going to want less roll stiffness than I am running here. When traction levels are up on my track, it's not uncommon to traction roll. One setup cannot work for all track conditions, so this setup may not work for your track. Just keep that in mind. If you want to run this general setup, but run with different levels of traction, don't hesitate to PM me. Id be happy to help you with some subtle changes to tailor the setup to your track.
2. My track is pretty smooth, so I typically don't have to keep my suspension soft, to handle lots of small bumps or ruts. The shock setup here is designed to handle medium sized jumps.
3. Pay attention to my pistons, oil weight, and spring choice. I spent a LOT of time balancing the front and rear chassis rising frequency ... first by spring only, and then damped. This keeps the car very predictable coming in and out of turns as the front and rear of the car work together, instead of fighting each other. This allows you to push the car harder than you could otherwise, and the car will resist becoming unsettled.
4. Steering on and off throttle can be changed quite a bit by droop. Pay attention to my notes on how I measure droop. I don't measure wishbone length as that that method is an inaccurate way to measure droop. I measure actual chassis droop/rise instead.
5. Chassis weight balance is a bit different with this car I found. The rear of the car is quite a bit heavier than any other buggy I have driven, and therefor found the shorty lipo moved forward beyond the normal battery stop was the best way to achieve front to rear balance. I used foam pads to precisely place my battery. Instead of adding weight to the front of the buggy, I subtracted weight from the rear by running the short lipo farther forward than allowed normally. This keeps the buggy lighter and more responsive. I found the buggy to a) be too heavy, and b) have too little steering with a full sized lipo. Here is a picture of my battery placement. For placement, I removed the normal battery stop, and ran a 15mm foam pad up against the back of my full sized servo, which moved the lipo 14mm farther forward.
Moving from a full sized lipo to a shorty lipo put the car into a whole other league, and at least for now, I consider it an absolute must have for this buggy.
6. Even though I am running the Akura front carbon tower, the roll center placement matches what I have dictated on the setup sheet for the factory front shock tower.
7. I am running the original ball cups found on the 4wheeler and SC trucks. I found the HD ball cups to be too hard, resulting in a lot of unnecessary popped ball cups.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
Battery Placement
Finisher Shell
---> Setup Sheet <----
Brandon_Collins_Dex210_Setupsheet.pdf
1. If you run on a different type of surface, with a different level of overall grip/traction, you are going to want less roll stiffness than I am running here. When traction levels are up on my track, it's not uncommon to traction roll. One setup cannot work for all track conditions, so this setup may not work for your track. Just keep that in mind. If you want to run this general setup, but run with different levels of traction, don't hesitate to PM me. Id be happy to help you with some subtle changes to tailor the setup to your track.
2. My track is pretty smooth, so I typically don't have to keep my suspension soft, to handle lots of small bumps or ruts. The shock setup here is designed to handle medium sized jumps.
3. Pay attention to my pistons, oil weight, and spring choice. I spent a LOT of time balancing the front and rear chassis rising frequency ... first by spring only, and then damped. This keeps the car very predictable coming in and out of turns as the front and rear of the car work together, instead of fighting each other. This allows you to push the car harder than you could otherwise, and the car will resist becoming unsettled.
4. Steering on and off throttle can be changed quite a bit by droop. Pay attention to my notes on how I measure droop. I don't measure wishbone length as that that method is an inaccurate way to measure droop. I measure actual chassis droop/rise instead.
5. Chassis weight balance is a bit different with this car I found. The rear of the car is quite a bit heavier than any other buggy I have driven, and therefor found the shorty lipo moved forward beyond the normal battery stop was the best way to achieve front to rear balance. I used foam pads to precisely place my battery. Instead of adding weight to the front of the buggy, I subtracted weight from the rear by running the short lipo farther forward than allowed normally. This keeps the buggy lighter and more responsive. I found the buggy to a) be too heavy, and b) have too little steering with a full sized lipo. Here is a picture of my battery placement. For placement, I removed the normal battery stop, and ran a 15mm foam pad up against the back of my full sized servo, which moved the lipo 14mm farther forward.
Moving from a full sized lipo to a shorty lipo put the car into a whole other league, and at least for now, I consider it an absolute must have for this buggy.
6. Even though I am running the Akura front carbon tower, the roll center placement matches what I have dictated on the setup sheet for the factory front shock tower.
7. I am running the original ball cups found on the 4wheeler and SC trucks. I found the HD ball cups to be too hard, resulting in a lot of unnecessary popped ball cups.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
Battery Placement
Finisher Shell
---> Setup Sheet <----
Brandon_Collins_Dex210_Setupsheet.pdf
Thanks for the advice, but I can't open the file. It mentions that it is damaged, when I try to open it. Not sure if anyone is having this problem. Thanks.