Tdub77

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man, lhs support is why I was gonna go with the b5 but it has come to my lhs not supporting me so I might just as well do business with tower. The Durango does look more tunable in one package but it does scare me a bit just not knowing how good Durango will keep supporting their product once they move on to a new one. I used to run losi back in the day and got burned a few times with new models coming out and them quitting production on the replaced model. I just don't want to go down that path again. How has Durango been at keeping parts available?

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Really good. I guess that comes down to the fact non of there models have had a complete re design yet. They just keep updating there cars so you can update to the new spec as you desire. They're solid machines and I wouldn't be concerned with long term support.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Good thing about durango so far in history is the original Dex410 through to Dex410v4 are just upgraded versions and the dex210 V1 to v2 is just upgrades that you can buy which is handy.

Only issue I have had with durango is some parts availablility is shocking (6 months for the Rear centre UJoint).

Other than that excellent platform tuff as nails and very competitve.

What Rcjunky said Haha

Marco926

should i change the shock tower if use the front gull wing arm ?

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

the geometry is the same, just with a bit of an s bend for easier shock access.

Dino_D

The new shock tower moves the shock tower back slightly to give easier access to the droop screws.
Gullwing arms have more steering but it can dig on dirt.
The straight arms give a more progressive feel to the steering.

RBraswell

iTrader: (15)

Have many of you had good luck with Revolution Design Racing Products? I see they make a +11 chassis and was considering it or the new +8 v2 chassis from durango. Any good feedback on using this companies aluminum products?

Jerrylaw1028

I'm new and am wondering what a good spring to go with on my dex 210

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

I run there chassis and motor mount and have no complaints. I think the extra 11mm is just about perfect for any track size imo. Also I've emailed them a couple times with questions and they got back to me quickly and are very helpful .

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

One more piece of the puzzle complete!
Chassis conversion kit is one step closer!
Dont mind the dirt, did some testing on a loomy clay track in michigan a couple weeks ago, havnt had time to clean it yet


photobucket.com/user/redo-73/media/D95D5A4A-8695-4301-AD2A-3D5BCAACC2D8_zpse74h1u7n.jpg.html][/URL]

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
Why not set the design to allow the lipo to get all the way back to the motor plate? Wouldn't that allow for even more flexibility of the weight balance, or at least get another .5% to the rear.

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

I originally had it all the way back, but found that I kept moving it forward at the track, so where it is now had the best ballance. This has been in the works for almost a year and has been thru a few revisions. Im pretty much settled on this being the final production ready version, it works indoor hard packed and outdoor loomy loose. The only thing I have left to do is get the mold done for the bodies, the plan is to have a cab forward body and a non-cab forward body, with the one of your choice coming with the kit.

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
NON-CAB FORWARD!!! YEAH!!! Count me in for that! I'll start saving my pennies for when you get the kit ready.

av4625

if i have a v1 210 with all the kit items (type A) no type b things, if i then buy a dimec20 +8mm type B chassis what other parts do i need to make it fit or will the (type A) stuff work with it? It is mainly for rear motor, and i understand the shell is different!

Do i need a different bulkhead?
Do i need the type B motor guard?
Hangers?
Do i need the v2 gearbox or will the v1 work?
Do i need the type B chassis brace set?

I want the minimum that i need to change!

Thanks

av4625

Double Post!