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Old 06-27-2014, 06:04 PM   #14776
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
What is the weight compaired to stock? Once Surf City is over I will be moving to Mog Buggy and Mod SC. Need to put all the weight back in I took out when I built my all plastic car lol... Its at 1498 right now body and electronics. Plan on putting the 15gram weight under the servo to keep the nose down.
If all things go well i'll be at surf city this year too, could you post a picture of your car. Want to see how you got it down to 1500. Best I could do was 1550.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:18 PM   #14777
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I recently acquired a used dex210 and quite a few of the bearings are shot. I've heard racers swear by boca and others by avid kits. I'm curious to hear from dingo owners what bearings they prefer.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:32 PM   #14778
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I recently acquired a used dex210 and quite a few of the bearings are shot. I've heard racers swear by boca and others by avid kits. I'm curious to hear from dingo owners what bearings they prefer.
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:41 PM   #14779
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For that price i snagged a set!
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:11 AM   #14780
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Thumbs up 210/410 wing mod

I've just finished doing the 410 wing mod on my 210. I think it will be worthwile on the track given the height it positions the wing. It's right at the top of the tower. Much better position I think. I'm using the lowered Tresrey CF tower. I've attached a couple of pics to compare the original wing mount location with the new....let me know if you have any questions

Here's a link to the oople thread in which I got the idea:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97519
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Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0260.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0261.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0653.jpg  
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Last edited by 13Maschine; 06-28-2014 at 01:40 AM. Reason: adding a link :D
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:38 AM   #14781
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I have a few sets of 12mm hexes. I've used the avid, the pro line and the Jconcepts 12mm sets (B4). This is the model I use now:
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

They all seem very very similar. I dig the Jconcepts inverse rims because they can't catch dirt but I have spun the soft plastic hexes a few times with them. Since then I've been using the Durango wheels with the Tresrey 14mm clamping hexes. This combo is hard to beat in terms of fitment and I like the larger hex. I'm also using the Spec R hexes on my 410....14mm. Could use them on the 210 if I wanted. They are also very nice.
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:39 AM   #14782
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What kind of scales do you guys use?
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:54 AM   #14783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBraswell View Post
I recently acquired a used dex210 and quite a few of the bearings are shot. I've heard racers swear by boca and others by avid kits. I'm curious to hear from dingo owners what bearings they prefer.
Avid revolutions. $1 a bearing and they are as good as the rest. Plus you are losing some drag with a metal shield that you can put on the clean side of the bearing like inside the wheel hubs.

Nice work on the wing 13Maschine, looking forward to hearing about it after you run it

Most get the scales from harbor freight. But scales can throw you off...
If you want to balance the chassis you need to take the suspension out of the equation... like with solid rods. With the suspension on you are corner balancing the car and preload will throw off the weights that you are reading.

I guess you can get close setting ride height the same 22mm or whatever f&r then micrometer the collars but rods in place of sprung suspension will be more accurate for chassis weight.
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Old 06-28-2014, 12:56 PM   #14784
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Working on a -4mm rear shock tower with adjustable wing mounts and looking for some input. The tower will be 4mm carbon, with the ability to move the wing mounts up a total of 12mm in incraments of 3mm.
Im thinking the wing mounts will be made out of delrin, as this would give a little 'give' in a flip onto the wing without risk of breaking the tower. I cant get the pics to post for some reason, so here is a link to my photobucket.
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/redo-73/slideshow/
Let me know what you think, hope to be cutting them tomarrow!
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:05 PM   #14785
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@fq06: yeah, I need a long practice day at the track for sure. Less wrenching more driving. I've been way too busy this month....

As far as bearings go, I picked up a set of the ACER ceramic full set for my 410, (pretty similar to the 210 set) and they are AH-MAZZZZING!. Perhaps a little pricey I paid around 75 for the set I think. I do expect them to last a really long time though. I also have ceramic balls in my diff and they take a lot of abuse with my low turn mod motors. FQ06 knows how I feel about horsepower
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:06 PM   #14786
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Yep tower and wing mounts look good i dont think you need 4 different heights maybe 2 will do
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:34 PM   #14787
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A couple of guys were asking for my indoor clay setup for MM4. I know Fredswain will agree with me that it's always best to tune and setup yourself. I understand this can be tough sometimes and you always need at least a baseline to start from so why not try something that should be close right? Lastly I should mention everyone should spend the time to read freds suspension tuning thread. Some excellent points about tuning. These cars are so light and overpowered most of the time that every mm counts. Learn to do drop tests, play with different spring rates, do more drop tests, fully compress the suspension and watch it come back up etc. Make sure the car isn't rebounding unevenly.

I think my setup is pretty decent although not as perfect as I would like it. I'm a real perfectionist though. It does seem to hold up in terms of decent lap times at the tracks I've had it on recently. I'm usually within 1-2 seconds of the fastest times. I just not very consistent as I've been semi retired for a bit. At any rate I hope this helps some with a start point. With those precursors here goes

PS. My car is still mostly a V1. Longer front shocks and I'm running the RDRP +11 chassis.

Front:
12mm Kyosho Hex Mod (no trailing adjustment)
Castor blocks all the way forward on the arms
Avid ReD Springs with 30wt Associated Oil and 1.6mmx2 Durango pistons
Middle hole on the tower and outer hole on the arm
Plastic shock tower and V1 shocks with flat arms. (I think I may try going to the lower Tresrey CF tower and gull wing arms until I can get a set of the V2 shocks)
Tie rod position in the castor block is on the inside and inside on the tower. 2mm spacer on tower.
no bump steer.

ESC up front next to the servo. Transponder and Capacitor too. Shorty Battery all the way back. Leaves some room for foam or adjustment. Currently the car seems to have a bit of oversteer so I've left the battery in the back.

Rear Setup:
Shocks on the front of the tower(move them to the rear for more traction/better in the bumps allows the chassis to flex a little more)
white springs with 30wt and 1.6mm x 3 pistons.
Exotek LRC suspension block with 0 anti squat/3 degrees of toe in. 0 toe in the hubs.
Tie rod in the second to outermost hole on hub and inside on tower with 1mm spacer
Hubs are all the way forward (keeps the wheelbase the same after pushing the front forward)

I'm running a Speed Passion Reventon ESC with a 6.5 V3.0 motor. It's basically a land rocket and I often turn off the timing/boost etc. Especially with the shorty pack, it's very quick. 21/81 is the gearing I usually run.

Again this is just where the car happens to be at the moment. I'm always twiddling a bit and since everyone has a different car with different electronics it really helps to learn how to balance the car yourself. Secondly, always make sure your suspension is smooth. Still to this day I sometimes catch myself tightening it too much and creating a binding situation. This makes the car horrible. better for it to be loosy goosy. A car with stuck suspension is very hard to drive. Cheers!
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:44 PM   #14788
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Thumbs up electronics and suspension setup pics

pics for reference....
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0658.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0660.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0663.jpg  
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:48 PM   #14789
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by thefan View Post
Yep tower and wing mounts look good i dont think you need 4 different heights maybe 2 will do
I think it may be better to have multiple holes in the plastic portion of the wing mount, instead of in the CF portion of the tower. Keep more material here for stiffness and durability. As you mentioned try to make the mounts somewhat soft so they can give with impact instead of breaking. Also if it matches up with the towers that people already have more people will want your aftermarket mounts I see a 3D printed version in your future!
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:13 PM   #14790
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Fredswain tuning manual here:
Tune With Camber Links
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