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Old 06-23-2014, 11:22 AM   #14746
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Hey Guys Im getting back into the hobby, I have an indoor track opening locally so considering a mid-motor buggy. How durable are these kits and also how difficult are they to tune and drive?
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:28 AM   #14747
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Hey Guys Im getting back into the hobby, I have an indoor track opening locally so considering a mid-motor buggy. How durable are these kits and also how difficult are they to tune and drive?
they appear to me at least to be pretty durable. I can't comment on how hard to drive they are mid motor, but I am not seeing anything in particular to this buggy that would make it harder to handle than others when the right setup is on it.
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:38 PM   #14748
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Mid motor buggy is easy to drive and in my opinion better than RM, as far as durable they can take a tumble, on par with other cars, but there definately not as strong as a 1/8 buggy
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:55 PM   #14749
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I know carbon fibre is strong but im a little concerned it would snap around the motor screw slots as it gets thin there
They should be fine as long as a decent motor screw washer is used, as it sandwitches the plate with the surface area of the motor. 3mm carbon if pretty tough
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:36 PM   #14750
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Mid motor buggy is easy to drive and in my opinion better than RM, as far as durable they can take a tumble, on par with other cars, but there definately not as strong as a 1/8 buggy
+1 was playing the SC avoidance game and lost a time or two, but nothing happened to the car. Maybe the V1 would have broken, but the V2 is in my opinion a much better and tougher buggy. With Lutz Cactus Clsssic setup on it with oil changes for warmer weather, car was planted and very stable in mid motor with no weight installed into it.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:11 PM   #14751
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I am new to this and received a dex 210 for free with no electronics so I got a sanwa mt4 controller and on the fence with a tekin rsx. Can anyone point me in the right direction if the rsx is worth the money or should I go another route? Also what is best motor esc combo and steering servo and batteries. Thanks for the future help!!
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:21 PM   #14752
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I am new to this and received a dex 210 for free with no electronics so I got a sanwa mt4 controller and on the fence with a tekin rsx. Can anyone point me in the right direction if the rsx is worth the money or should I go another route? Also what is best motor esc combo and steering servo and batteries. Thanks for the future help!!
you can pick up a viper esc/motor combo for around 200 bucks from amain. Viper vtx and a vst motor of whatever turn you wanna go.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:10 PM   #14753
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I am new to this and received a dex 210 for free with no electronics so I got a sanwa mt4 controller and on the fence with a tekin rsx. Can anyone point me in the right direction if the rsx is worth the money or should I go another route? Also what is best motor esc combo and steering servo and batteries. Thanks for the future help!!
Hideeho
The RSX is bit of overkill. You probably won't want to run lower than an 8.5t in any 2wd buggy. Every one that I have talked to that is running anything lower than an 8.5 has the EPA turned WAY down. The tekin rs gen2 will handle down to an 8.5 with no problem. I have talked to a guy that was running a 6.5 on the rs gen2 (with the EPA set at 60% ) in a 2wd buggy. My recommendation would an rs gen2 for 2wd. If you ever get a 4wd, then get an RSX.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:33 PM   #14754
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Are you referring to the shock end popping out of the tiny bushing that holds it to the arm? If you are just add a 1mm washer in between the screw and the shock end to keep it from ever poping out.
sorry for confuse…i'm meaning the rod end pull out from shock shaft
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:14 AM   #14755
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Originally Posted by Jerrylaw1028 View Post
I am new to this and received a dex 210 for free with no electronics so I got a sanwa mt4 controller and on the fence with a tekin rsx. Can anyone point me in the right direction if the rsx is worth the money or should I go another route? Also what is best motor esc combo and steering servo and batteries. Thanks for the future help!!
Tekin safe good but I think an rsx is overkill in this car. My ms-1 in 7.5 mod buggy after a 7 minuteain is hovering about 120 which is way under the threshold of thermal shutdown. An RS gen 2 wos be great, if you wanted to he cheaper hit have all of the Bella and whistles of a high end ESC. lol into a Hobbywing V3.1 stock. Can handle any motor you can throw at it and will run super cool. As fad as. Servo goes I wos
Look at something around the 10ms mark with a torque of over 120oz at 6.0vts. I run a Futaba BLS451 ( discontinued as of last week) which has 120 oz. torque at 10 ms and am not wanting at all for speed or torque out if my buggy. But
Them again I have a very high end radio. Those ballpark figures should be well and good for you. Combo? TrakPower ms-1 with motor of your choice or tekin RS Gen 2 with. Motor of your choice LRP and Oripn combos are
Way overpriced and not any better in fact the last Orion VST2 was a dog.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:33 AM   #14756
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I'm curious. Has anyone tried cvd's from a different car to see if any of them work? A B4 for example?
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:04 PM   #14757
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I'm curious. Has anyone tried cvd's from a different car to see if any of them work? A B4 for example?
Check out Jörn's car from the 2013 Reedy Race. Guess you have to use the AE hubs as well.

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Old 06-25-2014, 04:49 PM   #14758
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Wonder what Jorn's reasoning for running those would be, if I'm not mistaken that's still a 14mm hex. Maybe a wider rear track width?
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:39 PM   #14759
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After driving for over a year, my son finally broke a gear box. After ordering the Type B box and tearing it down I noticed my sons chassis is slightly bent in the back. With all the braces should I worry about this much? I'm thinking with the brace that holds the rear body mount will pull it back into shape. I don't want to spend much more money for a new one since converting to a V2 is not reasonable in price. My son is getting better and should be running stock 17.5 soon and having to buy a chassis is dumb but if I did have to which one? RTR +8, aftermarket aluminum or V2
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:51 PM   #14760
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The dimec20 +8 one is great if you plan to use the car in 17.5 like you said. Though you will have to switch to one of the new bodies because of the updated side guards.

If we really break it down the biggest differences between a v1 and v2 is just +8 chassis and new front geometry because of the a-arms/ tower. I kinda wish TD had gone the AE route and created the v2 shock tower a bit longer for when using the flat arms. This way we could use our old front shocks.
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