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Old 06-17-2014, 06:49 AM   #14716
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Yup, just had to test fit the body from my Criterion to the 210...wow...need to do something with the antenna hole, but that's a much better fit than expected!
Sidenote-the Criterion really is a neat car. It's a great tire break-in rig for the driveway
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:49 AM   #14717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae4ever View Post
Used a Helion Criterion body, I really hate the cab forward bodies.
Hideeho
I just noticed something else. Are those JC 1/8 wing buttons your using for the top deck buttons?
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:52 AM   #14718
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Originally Posted by ae4ever View Post
Used a Helion Criterion body, I really hate the cab forward bodies.
Another sidenote: we're running the same wheels, tires, rear tower...our cars are related
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:34 PM   #14719
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Walflet, yes they are JC wing buttons.

T-bird, proline B4 rims with diggity -4mm rear shock tower. I also use durango 52mm rear shock shafts. Due to the stock shafts hitting the shock cap at full compression. I have been running that setup for about a 8 months now.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:43 PM   #14720
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Oh...looks like we're not running the same tower. I should have noticed mine was way taller when I test-fitted the Criterion body.
I haven't looked into the Diggity stuff, maybe I should.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:10 PM   #14721
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Walflet, yes they are JC wing buttons.

T-bird, proline B4 rims with diggity -4mm rear shock tower. I also use durango 52mm rear shock shafts. Due to the stock shafts hitting the shock cap at full compression. I have been running that setup for about a 8 months now.
how do you find the -4mm rear tower?

seems like it limits the up travel a lot? the car just bottoms out before the shocks are fully compressed.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:05 AM   #14722
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how do you find the -4mm rear tower?

seems like it limits the up travel a lot? the car just bottoms out before the shocks are fully compressed.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/Durang...r_Lowered.html
Diggity has had the tower available for awhile now.
When I changed to the 52mm shock shaft from the stock 54mm shaft I wanted to get back the droop I lost when I shorted the shock, so the -4mm tower worked perfect. And the chassis still bottoms out before the shocks.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:46 PM   #14723
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Has anyone been lucky enough to score one of the new v2 bodies? Mid June has arrived and still nothing from Tower, will probably be updated to mid July in the coming days like it was last month for mid June. In the off chance anyone with an unpainted body from a new v2 kit is interested in selling their body I'll pay an extra amount to make the sale.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:27 PM   #14724
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Anyone have some good setup sheets or tips for mm3 indoor clay? I had a good amount of sidebite pre much running same setup as Lutz indoor. I was very loose on the straight and corner exit, felt good into the corner good steering. Stock springs 22f 21.5r height 3hole 1.6 30wf 3hole 1.7 27.5wr. And it would get really upset if I tried to correct before a jump. Front feels good more or less need rear help. Running electronics inline 17.5 rs shorty pack
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:34 PM   #14725
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I just got my v2 body today, I had it on order for a while but where I work got 3 in, all ordered of course. That said, there mid June was quite accurate, they would of shipped Monday.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:28 PM   #14726
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Good to hear, who knows where in line I am but at least this means it's coming soon enough.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:52 PM   #14727
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
Anyone have some good setup sheets or tips for mm3 indoor clay? I had a good amount of sidebite pre much running same setup as Lutz indoor. I was very loose on the straight and corner exit, felt good into the corner good steering. Stock springs 22f 21.5r height 3hole 1.6 30wf 3hole 1.7 27.5wr. And it would get really upset if I tried to correct before a jump. Front feels good more or less need rear help. Running electronics inline 17.5 rs shorty pack
Try running more rear toe in also what anti squat block are you using? would you consider the surface very high grip or medium and generally speaking most people use mm4 with the exception of one member who will tell you mm3 is better
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:10 PM   #14728
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Most people are wrong!
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:12 PM   #14729
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What's the rule of thumb for toe in? I'm not sure what rf block I'm running I think its the one the kit recommended, I picked up a set of cut gears so I'll prob run mm4 as my d3.5 is a monster as it is. I tried the rear alum axles and wow was there a big weight difference, then about 2 packs in one side snapped in 2 right behind the hex .
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:29 PM   #14730
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
What's the rule of thumb for toe in? I'm not sure what rf block I'm running I think its the one the kit recommended, I picked up a set of cut gears so I'll prob run mm4 as my d3.5 is a monster as it is. I tried the rear alum axles and wow was there a big weight difference, then about 2 packs in one side snapped in 2 right behind the hex .
I don't know if there's a rule of thumb, other than run what works best for you.

I was running 3.5* for a while and recently noticed my car had a push that I couldn't get rid of. Switched back to 3* and the push was gone, so just based on that I recommend 3*.
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