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Old 05-29-2014, 02:35 PM   #14581
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
I use the Exotek on the RM car and I love it. Its way stronger and takes a beating cause its alloy. But the Exotek will not fit the Avid clutch.
Not sure why the stock durango one is so weak. I think RPM or somebody with a 3D printer should make a new one.

If you use MM the Avid clutch gear cover is more protected and should last you a long time. On RM the avid gear cover doesn't last long either, but then again nor does the stock one,
damn, oh well, guess I can't use it then. The avid one would be better if the plastic was thicker around the screw holes, its that part that is getting messed up by me.

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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Speaking of the Avid clutch, who's running it? I have one and haven't tested it yet. The stock slipper seems to work really well and I adjust it with the associated HD pads that are a thicker when I run mod. Can we comment on the differences? Less fade since their are three pads? Easier to find the sweet spot?
The main complaint I have is that setting it initially, or I should say assembly can be a bit of a pain as its if it doesn't bite as much as it should when you start to thread on the slipper adjustment nut. I had to really hold the assembly still to get it to work the way I wanted or it would just spin and spin. I am not sure why, I thought it was flashing on the spur gears but now I think its something else.

All in all I love the performance, but to be honest heck if someone offered a trade for the tresrey setup and AE spurs I may have just done that with some garodiscs instead.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:48 PM   #14582
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How high is the wicker on the rear wing? What I mean is the rear wing has 3 or 4 lines you can trim to adjust downforce. Leaving it high or having a thick wicker gives you more traction but will make the car nose high on jumps. Reducing the wicker or thickness of the rear wing decreases some grip but also won't make the car nose up. You can also try using brakes to make the car not nose up while it is in flight or let off the throttle before you jump.
I was wondering if the wing may be a good point of adjustment. I currently have the wicker at the highest most line. Does any 10th scale wing work or are they very car specific?

Brakes in flight is not having a noticeable effect. I need to carry more speed through the sweeper leading to the double. Right now coming off the bank turn I have the trigger fully squeezed trying to get enough speed to clear it.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:58 PM   #14583
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The rear wing really needs to be raised up about an inch so it's not hiding behind the rear shock tower. Most of the rear wing is completely useless as a result. That's why it has to be so large. If it were in cleaner air, it could be much smaller.
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:21 PM   #14584
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anyone running the lower -4mm shock towers from diggity or atomik? the dex210 shock tower seems high compared to other buggies,

any problems with the dogbones popping out of the axle or car bottoming out (lower up travel) etc

I run on a dusty track with low grip would it help?
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:28 PM   #14585
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The vehicle with the updated c-hub is my DESC210, I don't run a hex conversion....
Hideeho
I'm still new to durango & didn't realize the desc210 came with front hexes. That's what happens when you assume things

Can you adjust the trail on the desc210 front axles the way you can on the dex210?

Follow up question about front hexes:
Could someone with a dex410 measure the offset of the front wheels? The easiest way to do it is place something straight & sturdy something (i.e. a ruler) across the back of the wheel & measure down from the top of that to the inside of the hex. Most calipers will have piece that sticks out the back as you open it, this can be used to measure depth. Then measure the width of the strait edge you measured from & subtract the from your total.

Looking at the 410 wheels, I'm betting it will be close. If these off sets are the same, people that have a 410 & a 210 will be able to run the same wheels on both (you probably don't want to run the same tires, but that is another subject ).
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:43 PM   #14586
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Originally Posted by Waflet View Post
Hideeho
I'm still new to durango & didn't realize the desc210 came with front hexes. That's what happens when you assume things

Can you adjust the trail on the desc210 front axles the way you can on the dex210?

Follow up question about front hexes:
Could someone with a dex410 measure the offset of the front wheels? The easiest way to do it is place something straight & sturdy something (i.e. a ruler) across the back of the wheel & measure down from the top of that to the inside of the hex. Most calipers will have piece that sticks out the back as you open it, this can be used to measure depth. Then measure the width of the strait edge you measured from & subtract the from your total.

Looking at the 410 wheels, I'm betting it will be close. If these off sets are the same, people that have a 410 & a 210 will be able to run the same wheels on both (you probably don't want to run the same tires, but that is another subject ).
3mm trailing is the only option for the DESC210/DEST210.

I can measure the offset for you tomorrow if I'm not beaten to it.
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:54 AM   #14587
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if you are asking if you can run 410 fronts on the 210 you can. Although you would need the 12mm conversion and use 22-4 wheels. Durango 410 front wheels are 14mm so I'm not sure what hex you would use up front if you wanted to use 410 wheels. I'm using 22-4 (12mm) Typo wheels on my 410 as well as the Durango 14mm wheels.
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:01 AM   #14588
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Who's running the new 210v2 or at least the new flat arms? I have the Tresrey CF tower which I believe is 1mm shorter than the V1 tower. I think the V2 shocks are 21.5mm stroke vs the V1 being 23mm? (same as 410 fronts right?) My question is who is running the older shocks with the new arms ? Did you add spacers?
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:08 AM   #14589
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Who's running the new 210v2 or at least the new flat arms? I have the Tresrey CF tower which I believe is 1mm shorter than the V1 tower. I think the V2 shocks are 21.5mm stroke vs the V1 being 23mm? (same as 410 fronts right?) My question is who is running the older shocks with the new arms ? Did you add spacers?
I did have the v2 arms with the V1 23mm shocks and stock lengh shafts. It would work OK but it limited down travel for me e.g. at max front suspension compression I had 2mm of between the chassis and the ground.

Going to the 21.5 shock body's and shorter shock shafts gave me that extra down travel.

Is it needed? dunno but I just changed it anyway, you could get rid of the rubber bumb stop to give that extra down travel.

I have the v2 front tower.
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:22 AM   #14590
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Right, I knew it was too early for me to think about the differences in length Thank you!
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:41 AM   #14591
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Originally Posted by Devin View Post
I was wondering if the wing may be a good point of adjustment. I currently have the wicker at the highest most line. Does any 10th scale wing work or are they very car specific?

Brakes in flight is not having a noticeable effect. I need to carry more speed through the sweeper leading to the double. Right now coming off the bank turn I have the trigger fully squeezed trying to get enough speed to clear it.
Normally I have the wicker at the middle most line, and another at the lowest line. The height of the wicker is track dependent. I mainly use the JConcept 6.5 wing. I don't like that much down force, it messes up the jumping.

If you have to squeeze the trigger to carry enough speed to clear, perhaps you can go up one turn in motor, or tighten the slipper a bit more if its slipping too much. If you don't have enough grip hence why you are using the max height of the wing, perhaps you need to change your setup a bit. Try more rear toe in? Re-gear - drop 1 or 2T on the pinon.
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:44 AM   #14592
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
anyone running the lower -4mm shock towers from diggity or atomik? the dex210 shock tower seems high compared to other buggies,

any problems with the dogbones popping out of the axle or car bottoming out (lower up travel) etc

I run on a dusty track with low grip would it help?
Dog bones popping out might be a result of too much down travel. Adjust with droop screws. Bottoming out may be the result of a piston and oil combination
Try 3x1.5 and 25wt or 27wt in the rear

Low grip use RM4.

Having a shorter front shock tower makes the car react faster to driver input. Great on a higher grip track with not to many jumps and bumps.
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:53 AM   #14593
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Who's running the new 210v2 or at least the new flat arms? I have the Tresrey CF tower which I believe is 1mm shorter than the V1 tower. I think the V2 shocks are 21.5mm stroke vs the V1 being 23mm? (same as 410 fronts right?) My question is who is running the older shocks with the new arms ? Did you add spacers?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pittster View Post
I did have the v2 arms with the V1 23mm shocks and stock lengh shafts. It would work OK but it limited down travel for me e.g. at max front suspension compression I had 2mm of between the chassis and the ground.

Going to the 21.5 shock body's and shorter shock shafts gave me that extra down travel.

Is it needed? dunno but I just changed it anyway, you could get rid of the rubber bumb stop to give that extra down travel.

I have the v2 front tower.
Pittster is correct.

You need to remove the rubber bump stop to use the older shocks with the V2 tower and v2 flat arms. The rubber stop is around 2mm long. Thus the difference in shock bodies is 2mm so you don't really gain or lose anything. But having a longer shock shaft you need to adjust front droop accordingly with the screws, or you can use a 2mm plastic spacer inside. I personally prefer using the screws. Another thing, using the rubber boots with the older shocks with v2 arms will limit your travel causing the car to sit like 1.5mm above the ground. it just won't bottom out with boots on.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:27 AM   #14594
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Speaking of the Avid clutch, who's running it? I have one and haven't tested it yet. The stock slipper seems to work really well and I adjust it with the associated HD pads that are a thicker when I run mod. Can we comment on the differences? Less fade since their are three pads? Easier to find the sweet spot?
The Avid slipper is very consistent and smooth. I like the setting with 1 red pad in the middle, the rest white for 7.5T MOD. If the track is slippery, I will use all white pads.

I prefer the Avid in a Mid-Motor car.
It works good in RM3 configuration as well but the gear cover in the back doesn't last too long.

I don't like the AVID in RM4 configuration. The car feels too soft almost like it has no power as the RM4 softens the throttle response already. You need to use at least the 1 Red pad. Guys running stock 17.5T or 13.5T probably need to run the red pad on the inside or outside of the avid to make throttle response more aggressive.

Using AE pads it's pretty good as well. I find it more consistent than the durango pads. HD pads for med/high grip tracks, Standard B4 pads for lower grip tracks.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:45 AM   #14595
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Thanks Dino as always!

for me it was more about having same pads and gears between my 410 and 210. This way I have several different pads for both the dual slipper and my 210 slipper and a few spur gears.

I should try the AVID out since I have one anyway.
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