Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Anyone tried the new V2 front end on the v1 ? I just got the new V2 +8 chassis and all the new B parts..
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Just wanted to say to you guys I got the chance to borrow a Durango DEX210 with the +8mm chassis and a bunch of Avid upgrades to race for our first point series this weekend. I've never driven in a 2wd buggy class, always been a wheeler/4x4 sct guy, and figured I'd give it a shot.
Ended up driving to 5th in the A-Main on an outdoor track out of I think 17/18 (a/b mains). Car was amazing! Very impressed, actually considering one now to start running permanently.
Ended up driving to 5th in the A-Main on an outdoor track out of I think 17/18 (a/b mains). Car was amazing! Very impressed, actually considering one now to start running permanently.
anyone running the durango small bore shocks on there 210?
picked up a 210 looking to race it in the 17.5t class and got a 410 roller laying around with small bores. thinking of puting them onto the 210?
picked up a 210 looking to race it in the 17.5t class and got a 410 roller laying around with small bores. thinking of puting them onto the 210?
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Just wanted to say to you guys I got the chance to borrow a Durango DEX210 with the +8mm chassis and a bunch of Avid upgrades to race for our first point series this weekend. I've never driven in a 2wd buggy class, always been a wheeler/4x4 sct guy, and figured I'd give it a shot.
Ended up driving to 5th in the A-Main on an outdoor track out of I think 17/18 (a/b mains). Car was amazing! Very impressed, actually considering one now to start running permanently.
Ended up driving to 5th in the A-Main on an outdoor track out of I think 17/18 (a/b mains). Car was amazing! Very impressed, actually considering one now to start running permanently.
One of the reasons I went durango other than since you can find the V1s loaded cheap is that its upgradeable to the current spec car. Used to always fall with AE, but wanted to try something different.
Funny how the losi step pins in I think red compound worked out so well. I think prolines M3 steps could have worked excellent to, trick is now finding them! Brandon A was running the Panther steps, things look like mad max style tires.
it was interesting to see though how you can go from planted on the rear to loose when the conditions started to change slightly.
speaking of onpower steering, thinking of adding more weight to the nose section, I have a shorty setup in mine, my daughter is using large 7200mah IP lipos. I do have the front alloy bulkhead but its a gen 1 I am thinking so need to mod it.
Anyone who has done that, is it pretty straight forward just trim with a dremel so it fits the DimeC +8mm chassis?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
did you want m3 proline step pins? I can probably get them by the box locally. They were the ticket here and we did a group buy, when the track changed that left a bunch of them floating around. I can probably get them at $11 a pair plus shipping (in the zip lock bag with the open cell foams)
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
yeah, I am thinking of something like this:
- Step pins (proline, panther, losi if red compound)
- Losi Red Ifmar pin
- Losi Red Big Shots
basically tires like that with a bit more pin spacing than say a caliber. At least, that is what I am thinking personally. One of the top drivers at the track I know he used the panther steps to great effect.
Waiting on hearing back from someone with these for about $5 a pair he is saying, depending on purchase amounts.
- Step pins (proline, panther, losi if red compound)
- Losi Red Ifmar pin
- Losi Red Big Shots
basically tires like that with a bit more pin spacing than say a caliber. At least, that is what I am thinking personally. One of the top drivers at the track I know he used the panther steps to great effect.
Waiting on hearing back from someone with these for about $5 a pair he is saying, depending on purchase amounts.
How are the ball diffs on the V2 now? and is anyone running the gear diff on dirt? if so how does it do over the ball
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
lol, that was cool to see you lay the laps down like that! Her car was much less trick than mine, that big battery sure looked to help plant it. towards the end I finally got it to feel pretty good, just need more on power steering at this point. based on track size I may just set her up with the motor I was using and grab an 8.5 for myself.
One of the reasons I went durango other than since you can find the V1s loaded cheap is that its upgradeable to the current spec car. Used to always fall with AE, but wanted to try something different.
Funny how the losi step pins in I think red compound worked out so well. I think prolines M3 steps could have worked excellent to, trick is now finding them! Brandon A was running the Panther steps, things look like mad max style tires.
it was interesting to see though how you can go from planted on the rear to loose when the conditions started to change slightly.
speaking of onpower steering, thinking of adding more weight to the nose section, I have a shorty setup in mine, my daughter is using large 7200mah IP lipos. I do have the front alloy bulkhead but its a gen 1 I am thinking so need to mod it.
Anyone who has done that, is it pretty straight forward just trim with a dremel so it fits the DimeC +8mm chassis?
One of the reasons I went durango other than since you can find the V1s loaded cheap is that its upgradeable to the current spec car. Used to always fall with AE, but wanted to try something different.
Funny how the losi step pins in I think red compound worked out so well. I think prolines M3 steps could have worked excellent to, trick is now finding them! Brandon A was running the Panther steps, things look like mad max style tires.
it was interesting to see though how you can go from planted on the rear to loose when the conditions started to change slightly.
speaking of onpower steering, thinking of adding more weight to the nose section, I have a shorty setup in mine, my daughter is using large 7200mah IP lipos. I do have the front alloy bulkhead but its a gen 1 I am thinking so need to mod it.
Anyone who has done that, is it pretty straight forward just trim with a dremel so it fits the DimeC +8mm chassis?
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
It's the same diff as the original. I only run 17.5 & 13.5 so I have no problems with the ball diff holding up..I haven't really run the gear diff in the 210 buggy..
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
If she doesn't heck I may bring the SCT410 of her's too to play with setup on that depending on how the day goes.
Well with the V1 I normally use with standard orange o-rings
3x1.5 27wt front
3x1.5 25wt rear or 4 hole splits (2x1.1+2x1.5) if you need more pack
If you use a v2 or upgrade to purple o-rings you need to compensate for less oring resistance and friction and need to increase the oil weight and reduce pack.
3x1.6 35wt front
3x1.6 30wt rear r 4 hole splits (2x1.1+2x1.6) if you need more pack
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I was actually surprised how it worked out on the track. I may go up in oil weight though but it felt pretty good through the bumps etc.
If anyone has any of the dex210 turnbuckles they want to sell let me know. Looking to get some new ones for the rear.
Also, can someone tell me if the lunsfords work with the stock turnbuckle ends? I see lunsfor has this out there kit pricewise, but was thinking to just buy say the turnbuckles as needed, but not sure if the sizes I am seeing on amain are right as they are basically all the same length.
If anyone has any of the dex210 turnbuckles they want to sell let me know. Looking to get some new ones for the rear.
Also, can someone tell me if the lunsfords work with the stock turnbuckle ends? I see lunsfor has this out there kit pricewise, but was thinking to just buy say the turnbuckles as needed, but not sure if the sizes I am seeing on amain are right as they are basically all the same length.
lol, that was cool to see you lay the laps down like that! Her car was much less trick than mine, that big battery sure looked to help plant it. towards the end I finally got it to feel pretty good, just need more on power steering at this point. based on track size I may just set her up with the motor I was using and grab an 8.5 for myself.
One of the reasons I went durango other than since you can find the V1s loaded cheap is that its upgradeable to the current spec car. Used to always fall with AE, but wanted to try something different.
Funny how the losi step pins in I think red compound worked out so well. I think prolines M3 steps could have worked excellent to, trick is now finding them! Brandon A was running the Panther steps, things look like mad max style tires.
it was interesting to see though how you can go from planted on the rear to loose when the conditions started to change slightly.
speaking of onpower steering, thinking of adding more weight to the nose section, I have a shorty setup in mine, my daughter is using large 7200mah IP lipos. I do have the front alloy bulkhead but its a gen 1 I am thinking so need to mod it.
Anyone who has done that, is it pretty straight forward just trim with a dremel so it fits the DimeC +8mm chassis?
One of the reasons I went durango other than since you can find the V1s loaded cheap is that its upgradeable to the current spec car. Used to always fall with AE, but wanted to try something different.
Funny how the losi step pins in I think red compound worked out so well. I think prolines M3 steps could have worked excellent to, trick is now finding them! Brandon A was running the Panther steps, things look like mad max style tires.
it was interesting to see though how you can go from planted on the rear to loose when the conditions started to change slightly.
speaking of onpower steering, thinking of adding more weight to the nose section, I have a shorty setup in mine, my daughter is using large 7200mah IP lipos. I do have the front alloy bulkhead but its a gen 1 I am thinking so need to mod it.
Anyone who has done that, is it pretty straight forward just trim with a dremel so it fits the DimeC +8mm chassis?
If your conditions change a lot, perhaps you should try RM4. It seems to be pretty consistent when traction levels change during the day.
I run between 30-42g of lead weight behind the servo which helps keep the nose down.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
The full pack does help plant the car but makes it a little lazy. If you run a shorty, it just reacts quicker. The car shouldn't really change too much if the grip level changes. From fully planted to loose, unless the setup is a bit off.
If your conditions change a lot, perhaps you should try RM4. It seems to be pretty consistent when traction levels change during the day.
I run between 30-42g of lead weight behind the servo which helps keep the nose down.
If your conditions change a lot, perhaps you should try RM4. It seems to be pretty consistent when traction levels change during the day.
I run between 30-42g of lead weight behind the servo which helps keep the nose down.
I am probably going to stick with shorties for now, after moving electronics around a bit temporarily it actually worked quite well, had too much weight I felt forward on the car.
Speaking of which, has anyone tried putting say the ESC in front of the shorty and the shorty back on the chassis for dirt? figure more weight from the battery toward the rear, but still inline with electronics and ESC add alittle weight forward too.
Thanks. A lot of it could have been finding that initial good tire setup. the way the conditions are, fi the wind and sun get going you can easily go from damp to pretty dry during your heat / main, especially if you get out of the line into the fluff.
I am probably going to stick with shorties for now, after moving electronics around a bit temporarily it actually worked quite well, had too much weight I felt forward on the car.
Speaking of which, has anyone tried putting say the ESC in front of the shorty and the shorty back on the chassis for dirt? figure more weight from the battery toward the rear, but still inline with electronics and ESC add alittle weight forward too.
I am probably going to stick with shorties for now, after moving electronics around a bit temporarily it actually worked quite well, had too much weight I felt forward on the car.
Speaking of which, has anyone tried putting say the ESC in front of the shorty and the shorty back on the chassis for dirt? figure more weight from the battery toward the rear, but still inline with electronics and ESC add alittle weight forward too.
It really depends on the setup you are running.
RM3 normally requires the battery to be at mid or back. Just keep in mind the more weight to move the to rear, the more the car wants to rotate thru a turn.
RM4. Normally I run shorty full forward, and ESC behind the shorty. The RM4 will give more grip under acceleration so you can shift more weight forward. Its more consistent when grip is lower or changes a lot. I also run addition weights up front behind the servo.