R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree43Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-08-2014, 09:57 AM   #14431
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,439
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

thanks for the info.

Parts ordered.

the springs I have man it can be hard to tell what is what from the wear. haven't heard anything more for the previous owner of the vehicle on the springs shown unfortunately so ordered some new ones.

pricewise the durangos aren't too bad, was originally going to go cheap with "AE" springs but these seemed reasonable.

Now just need a tip on where to put the battery for a full size battery pack when using a dimeC chassis and RM configuration. Its a big pack, 7200mah but mainly for my daughter to have runtime and some extra heft.

I am going to try some shorties I got coming in for my vehicle.

Lastly, do you guys run any weight up front in that open section by the servo when in RM?

and I also have the alloy bulkhead I can put in too, though not sure if it needs to be modded for the dime chassis have to look again.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< HB Racing D413 | Tekno EB48SL / SCT410.3 | Tekno EB410 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2 | LC Racing EMB-1 Buggies and Truggies >
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 10:03 AM   #14432
Tech Champion
 
fq06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,628
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
The whole high roll center/low roll center arm mount thing is really a misnomer. Thanks Losi for once again making the world dumber! If all you do is to change that block and not touch the camber link then yes the roll center changes. However if you run an lrc block and then either lower the inner camber link by 2mm or raise the outer by 2mm, it is restored and all you've done is mount your rear suspension 2mm lower. Another way to look at it is that you've raised your car and hence the Cg by 2mm in relation to the rear suspension with an lrc block. If you run the aluminum rear hubs, you'll have the outer vertical ball studs so you can get whatever roll center you want.
Yeah, the LRC block is an interesting one. I agree, dropping the mount is kind of the same as raising the link for the suspension geometry. But what about the suspensions placement now?
Didn't that effectively raise all of the stuff bolted to the chassis higher raising where the weight is (like you said) and promoting more chassis roll?

I have not run one yet, someone is making LRC pills for the Tekno mounts but I haven't botherd with it as I am not hunting for more traction.
__________________
BCE SCT410 / Hobbywing 3656sd ~ RX8.2
DEX210 / Trinity 17.5 ~ RS.2
Westcoast Raceway (R.I.P.) | SMC | PowerLab

Last edited by fq06; 05-08-2014 at 10:58 AM.
fq06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #14433
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 246
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Im now using the v2 rear shock tower and arms with the shocks mounted on the back in a mm4 config for racing on carpet mainly so i can get to the pinion/spur without removing the shock my guestion is will i experience anything handling wise compared to front mounted shocks?
thefan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 12:17 PM   #14434
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Some people would swear that you will. You'll hear statements like, "It handles bumps better" or "It really locks the rear end down in corners" and other statements like that. The only thing moving the shocks will do is change weight distribution at the rear. You have more weight behind the axles with the shocks rearwards and more weight central with them in front. Each position has the exact same leverage on the arm.
__________________
Follow my rc products on Facebook at Raborn Racing Originals and the line of 3D printed parts at
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/rebellionrc
fredswain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 03:48 PM   #14435
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks for the info.

Parts ordered.

the springs I have man it can be hard to tell what is what from the wear. haven't heard anything more for the previous owner of the vehicle on the springs shown unfortunately so ordered some new ones.

pricewise the durangos aren't too bad, was originally going to go cheap with "AE" springs but these seemed reasonable.

Now just need a tip on where to put the battery for a full size battery pack when using a dimeC chassis and RM configuration. Its a big pack, 7200mah but mainly for my daughter to have runtime and some extra heft.
Normally on RM we run it full forward. The more you have it towards the back, the more it wants to swing around in turns. Full pack makes the car slower to react and easier but lazier to drive.

Quote:
I am going to try some shorties I got coming in for my vehicle.
Shorty packs will make it more responsive. Again shortly full forward with RM config.

Quote:
Lastly, do you guys run any weight up front in that open section by the servo when in RM?
and I also have the alloy bulkhead I can put in too, though not sure if it needs to be modded for the dime chassis have to look again.
I run between 30g-42g of weight behind the servo. If you have the alloy bulkhead. You won't need so much behind the servo. 15g-30g depending.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 04:23 PM   #14436
Tech Fanatic
 
snowman_evil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gold Coast, Queenland
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to snowman_evil
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goszu View Post
I had the same issue. Sanded the edges of the bearing just a little bit.
Now it spins smooth and free.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefan View Post
The binding is coming from the layshaft spacer if you loosen the screws that go through to the motor plate the transmission is free, file a small amount off the spacer and it will spin free ,by the way i tried a v2 case and it was worse
Thanks Fellas,

I'll give sanding the spacer down a go and see if it helps. I don't think it's an issue of the screws holding the motor plate on or even the screws holding the gearbox casing together because I have them just snug not over tightened at all and the binding comes before I even put the screws in. If I put the gearbox assembly together and just hold the casing together with my hand even softly it will bind then I think it's just slightly more exaggerated once the screws are holding it together slightly tighter then when I am holding it by hand.
__________________
DEX410V3 - Tekin - Spektrum - Panther
GCRC Raceway - "Lightning"
snowman_evil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 05:18 PM   #14437
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,439
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

thanks for the info.

Does anyone have a link to a circlip pliers that will work for the diff? would like to order but not sure of one that is "right" to use.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< HB Racing D413 | Tekno EB48SL / SCT410.3 | Tekno EB410 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2 | LC Racing EMB-1 Buggies and Truggies >
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2014, 10:15 PM   #14438
Tech Adept
 
Lone Star's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks for the info.

Does anyone have a link to a circlip pliers that will work for the diff? would like to order but not sure of one that is "right" to use.
Go to sears. They have a cheap set of two sizes, one is about 5" and one is about 7". The smaller one fits perf. The are the simple black stamped sheet metal ones with red grips. No need to get fancy with these, its a circlip, not a hex wrench.
__________________
DEX210V2, Toxic Tops Shuttle body for DEX210v2, lightened 7075-t6 3mm chassis.
Lone Star is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 04:44 AM   #14439
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 246
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
Some people would swear that you will. You'll hear statements like, "It handles bumps better" or "It really locks the rear end down in corners" and other statements like that. The only thing moving the shocks will do is change weight distribution at the rear. You have more weight behind the axles with the shocks rearwards and more weight central with them in front. Each position has the exact same leverage on the arm.
Ok so would i have more steering with the shocks in the front then? It certainly felt like i had more of a push with it the otherway, i only traction rolled once and i was pushing the car pretty hard in the corners.
thefan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 06:27 AM   #14440
Tech Master
 
RC10Nick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,305
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

What do you guys like to use for diff balls? I'm approaching a diff rebuild and thinking of picking up something harder than the stock steel balls. Ideally I'd like a ball hard enough that all the wear occurs on the rings. That way all I have to do for a rebuild is sand smooth the rings and reuse the balls.
__________________
JT RC Products
https://www.facebook.com/JTRCProducts/
RC10Nick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 06:30 AM   #14441
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

No you won't necessarily have more steering. What I'm getting at is that the only effect moving the shocks will have is based on what effect moving that weight will have.
__________________
Follow my rc products on Facebook at Raborn Racing Originals and the line of 3D printed parts at
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/rebellionrc
fredswain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 06:58 AM   #14442
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Europe
Posts: 86
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman_evil View Post
Thanks Fellas,
I don't think it's an issue of the screws holding the motor plate on or even the screws holding the gearbox casing together because I have them just snug not over tightened at all and the binding comes before I even put the screws in.
That sounds strange.
Maybe you have bent diff or warped gears ?
goszu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 07:11 AM   #14443
Tech Fanatic
 
snowman_evil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gold Coast, Queenland
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to snowman_evil
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goszu View Post
That sounds strange.
Maybe you have bent diff or warped gears ?
I believe it's a warped main gear on the gear diff being slightly off and not moulded correctly from factory I have tried brand new never used ones from other kits built from factory suffering the exact same fault. I will order a new gear and test to see if that is indeed the problem but at this point in time that's what I believe it will be. Aswell if that is the fault and I recieve another gear from that batch of bad ones it will obviously do the same thing so fingers crossed I get a corrected one if that is the issue!
__________________
DEX410V3 - Tekin - Spektrum - Panther
GCRC Raceway - "Lightning"
snowman_evil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 08:57 AM   #14444
Tech Addict
 
Devin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sudbury, ON, Canada
Posts: 650
Default

Just bought a used roller and switched it to RM4 for use on a loose track. The anti-squat in the rear is at the max angle. What would be a good starting point for this on a large, high-speed not very technical outdoor dirt track?

Realized I have no idea what anti-squat does and it was used for indoor clay previously so it may be set-up totally wrong for me.
Devin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 08:58 AM   #14445
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,439
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
Go to sears. They have a cheap set of two sizes, one is about 5" and one is about 7". The smaller one fits perf. The are the simple black stamped sheet metal ones with red grips. No need to get fancy with these, its a circlip, not a hex wrench.
Thanks, pretty much seeing online the $20+ range here, so will have to see if something in the store is cheaper.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< HB Racing D413 | Tekno EB48SL / SCT410.3 | Tekno EB410 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2 | LC Racing EMB-1 Buggies and Truggies >
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16574 11-04-2017 02:55 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-08-2017 12:57 AM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 10:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:34 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net