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Old 05-05-2014, 12:39 PM   #14401
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And yet another way to skin the cat, V1 +0 kit chassis RM. Didn't change it for the V2 chassis.
Inline FTW!

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Old 05-05-2014, 01:46 PM   #14402
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nice pic!

Alright still waiting to hear back from the guy I bought the more loaded car from about the springs he showed me in the pics that were not included in the package.

Assuming I don't get those in, using the DIMEC chassis in RM configuration for loose track conditions what do you recommend having in the pit box for spring rates?
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:52 PM   #14403
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Black rear and dark green, dark blue and maybe dark red fronts.
That's the springs I have been using in RM.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:54 PM   #14404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
nice pic!

Alright still waiting to hear back from the guy I bought the more loaded car from about the springs he showed me in the pics that were not included in the package.

Assuming I don't get those in, using the DIMEC chassis in RM configuration for loose track conditions what do you recommend having in the pit box for spring rates?
To start I would do RM4 transmission
Black or Light Blue Front
Light Blue Rear
3.5 or 4 toe
1.5 antisquat

Once you figure out how much grip you have, then you can go about changing springs or trying the RM3 if you like. But I would always start with RM4 just to be sure.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:57 PM   #14405
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Oh yeah, dimec, he will be lighter than me so a step down in spring rate makes sense.
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:47 PM   #14406
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thanks everyone appreciate the info. This will also have stock class 17.5 blinky duty and 10.5 mod as well.
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:27 PM   #14407
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Another RM3 inline ESC setup here I have run it like that for a while I like it.

Also ran my v1 210 with all the v2 upgrades excluding the +8mm and the RR LRC block for the first time on the weekend.

I had shocking under steer on power so changed the front spring from Dark green to black and added some droop so the front arms are nearly level and this gave me a really dialled in car good turn in and I could really control the attitude of the car through throttle control, but it was harder to drive.

Managed to get 4th which surprised me as I was driving to aggressive and crashing a fair bit.

This was on a blue groove dusty surface with holeshots Rear and AKA 3 rib fronts.

Current setup is:

4x1.3mm all round 30wt F 25wt R 22mm ride height all round.
L Blue rear Black front.
4 Deg rear toe -1.5 Anti squat -2 camber all round
Battery placment as per photo.
Stock link and shock positions as per V2 manual

I run 17.5 and current race weight is 1650g (bit on the heavy side :O)

Really liking how Durango allow's me to upgrade my cars over time as my V3 410 has nearly all the V4 parts in it also and that thing handles like a dream.

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Old 05-05-2014, 05:37 PM   #14408
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Quick question would it be worth Going to the newer LRC RR -2mm block or machining down my current v1 RR block -2mm? It should achieve the same thing shouldnt it?
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:12 PM   #14409
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That's a good idea, shaving 2mm from the bottom of the old RR hanger especially if you're still using a v1 chassis. But which RF are you using?
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:51 PM   #14410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azagar View Post
That's a good idea, shaving 2mm from the bottom of the old RR hanger especially if you're still using a v1 chassis. But which RF are you using?
Just the V1 original plastic RF -1.5 block.

So I would assume I would have to mill down the RF block also by -2mm otherwise i will have -3.5mm anti squat?
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:56 PM   #14411
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Just use the 0 so you're at 2 degrees. Or upgrade to the new v2 ones. The plastic that those are made of is so much better, less soft and gummy.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:54 PM   #14412
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what circlip pliers are you guys using. started to work on a ball diff but can't get that clip out for the life of me with anything I have here so looking for the pliers to do the job unless someone else has a recommendation.

also. how many shims do you use and on what side with the gear diff?
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:12 PM   #14413
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I use no shims on the gear diff if I remember right, and got my cir clip pliers from Lee Valley Tools, its was like $8 and pretty solid.
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:47 AM   #14414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
also. how many shims do you use and on what side with the gear diff?
This diff does not need any shimming.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:26 AM   #14415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
I use no shims on the gear diff if I remember right, and got my cir clip pliers from Lee Valley Tools, its was like $8 and pretty solid.
you have a direct link? tried a few search options but nothing came up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goszu View Post
This diff does not need any shimming.
Thanks for the info.

As it sits right now I think I need only the rear motor guard specific for the type B Dime chassis based on what my daughters vehicle had.

going to do a rebuild on the other car, mainly the rear end as it look slike just need to confirm what parts I have for that and be good to go, and will then place an order for parts needed.

Does anyone know of a retailer other than amain that carries both the avid clutch and durango parts? wanting to order another one as well as the durango parts, and then need to ship fast.
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