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Old 04-28-2014, 05:20 PM   #14326
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Looks like I was wrong when it comes to the front hexes, I always had the parts that I suggested but have always used durango wheels. Thought I'd actually test it out just now and for the front this mod is necessary after all. Because the front axels meant for the SC don't have enough thread for a wheel nut and the spacing/offset gets all messed up.

Going to purchase these and give them a shot, I think this might work perfectly without the need of spacers or any cutting involved.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:05 AM   #14327
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Im wondering if i should change diff oil in my 210 rtr. Ive just upgraded a lot in it. servo, esc and motor, new shock oil and new tires.

Im running on astro. The only diff oil i have here right now is the team associated 10.000 CST.

What do you guys think about using this oil? to thick? Its a gear diff.

thanks
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:55 AM   #14328
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I have a set. That doesn't work. The pin must go on after the hex on the 210 and it can't unless you modify those hexes. Someone needs to take a picture to prove to me that they can successfully violate physics. If you clamp them in front of the pin as every other car does, you need to use the associated cone behind the pin or else a butt load of spacers.
Keep in mind when I say the pin must go on after the hex, I mean that the pin must be behind it like every other car.
I have Tresray clamping hexs on one car the pin goes through the axle first the hex goes over the top and the screw clamps the hex tight over the pin. On another car i have Exotek hexs the hex goes on first then the pin slides through the axle/hex and there is a grub screw that holds the pin in place, both systems are 14mm though
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:45 AM   #14329
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Originally Posted by these_savages View Post
Im wondering if i should change diff oil in my 210 rtr. Ive just upgraded a lot in it. servo, esc and motor, new shock oil and new tires.

Im running on astro. The only diff oil i have here right now is the team associated 10.000 CST.

What do you guys think about using this oil? to thick? Its a gear diff.

thanks
It really depends on the grip level and if the track is technical or fast flowing. Normally I have seen diffs between 2k-7k on the DEX210. Lower diff fluids for more off-power steering and rotation, heavier diff fluids for a more free flowing track which will make the car push in turns off power.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:48 AM   #14330
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thanks for the info. we really should get a mod to help modify the first page with all the great info.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:55 AM   #14331
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thanks for the info. we really should get a mod to help modify the first page with all the great info.
There are a bunch of amazing tips and info in these threads but scattered all over. Not sure who has the time to collect all the good stuff.

The durangofan site has some good tips too.

But I am sure the people here don't mind repeating the answers for you if you have a question.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:00 PM   #14332
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yeah guys in general great about that. I know though for some threads the mods have done the first page up date thing before. Maybe we need to compile stuff first, then send that out.

here is question, for loose dirt conditions, what spring ranges do you guys recommend to have on hand as well as pistons to use?

And i correct in assuming AE springs work fine?
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:33 PM   #14333
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I've attached some pictures of rear hexes that I have used on my 210 so people can see how they mount up. For the record I'm using the Kyosho 12mm axles up front cut down with spacers but I am planning to also use the standard wheels so I can use inline axles instead of 3mm trailing which is what you end up with using the Kyosho conversion.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0425.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0426.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0427.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_0432.jpg  
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:34 PM   #14334
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These are the JConcepts(same as proline hexes) avid, and Tresrey in that order.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:43 PM   #14335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
yeah guys in general great about that. I know though for some threads the mods have done the first page up date thing before. Maybe we need to compile stuff first, then send that out.

here is question, for loose dirt conditions, what spring ranges do you guys recommend to have on hand as well as pistons to use?

And i correct in assuming AE springs work fine?
Loose dirt. Rear Motor right?

I think normally for the rear it would be Stock Light Blue or Black in the rear.
Front would range between Stock Light Blue, Black or Dark Green)
Not sure what the AE equivalent would be but just compare the rates. Another thing is between different manufacturers although its the same rate, the progressiveness of the spring may be different.
I have tested the TLR low frequency springs using similar rates, and its good when the track is really bumpy, as the car doesn't oscillate so much on low bite tracks.

Pistons vary dependent on track conditions. You want bigger and less holes on bumpy tracks, and smaller and more holes on tracks with big jumps.

I like running a hole area of 5.3. using the stock orange o-rings. 27wt Front 3x1.5mm or 4x1.3mm and 25wt rear 3x1.5mm or 4x1.3mm or Splits (2x1.5+2x1.1) It really depends on the track.

If you are using the low friction o-rings then 3x1.6mm 32-35wt front. 30wt rear to get similar packing.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:21 PM   #14336
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@Cain: I haven't tried AE springs yet, however I have used the avid 12mm stuff and it works very well. I have a set of these and usually run them on my DEX210. I also have the Durango tuning sets for front and rear and run them on my 410. Both are great, although I've noticed the Avid although almost exactly the same Length and even with a similar firmness from Durango I find I have to use more pre load. Perhaps the Durango springs are a bit more progressive. I am not sure…

as far as pistons go, I have made a bunch so far from blanks and also gluing the 6 hole pistons to create 2,3, and 4 hole versions. I've found I usually like to run a 2 hole up front with a 3 hole in the rear with 25 wt to start. I have 20 wt right now as a test with 2x1.2mm hole pistons up front and 3x1.3mm rear also with 20 wt. I'm running purple avid fronts and red rears. Sometimes I go yellow in the rear. I'm still testing and I plan to try the new Type B pistons which are pretty close to what I'm using now. Just larger holes. 1.6 and 1.7mm. I'd probably start with 25 wt here.

It helps to dig up the spring comparison charts for different brands….google should get you there pretty fast. If not I will try to find a link for you.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:23 PM   #14337
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I've also just switched to purple Durango O rings….
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:26 PM   #14338
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I should have also mentioned I'm running MM4 shorty in line down the center. With my ESC behind my servo also inline.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:05 PM   #14339
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Hey guys, what bodies can fit on the dex210 rtr kit as it has the plus 8mm chassis standard. Will the v2 body fit? Or finnisher style etc? I'm wanting to run the mid motor setup, what's the best way to go?

Any help greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:07 PM   #14340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I've attached some pictures of rear hexes that I have used on my 210 so people can see how they mount up. For the record I'm using the Kyosho 12mm axles up front cut down with spacers but I am planning to also use the standard wheels so I can use inline axles instead of 3mm trailing which is what you end up with using the Kyosho conversion.

cool thanks for the pics! by the way, what hexes are these and what all did you need exactly?

Also for everyone, I am assuming teh stock battery strap works fine with all chassis lengths right?

Do you guys recommend any different battery straps as I need to buy one it looks like.
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