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Old 04-24-2014, 07:31 PM   #14296
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For geometry changes, the front end has changed, shock bodies, shafts, spring retainers, towers and arms, the o-rings are different as well. In the rear the tranny case, rear top deck and rear brace all changed to make it nicer to work on and an outer ball stud position on the inside. The rear tower was also made beefier, I'll find out tomorrow if they changed much else on it. The rear arms have an extra set of holes on the back to run the shocks on the rear as an option. They also went to a +8mm alloy chassis, with the dimec and dimec20 plastic chassis still as an option. All that said, if you got the car for a good price and just want to try it out, I'd run it as is, possibly with a longer chassis of choice and the type B pivot blocks and give 'er. You'll definitely agree all the changes are nice on the v2 but not really needed, still very quick as is.

It sounds like from the surface you'll be running on I'd suggest 4rm, its got a ton of rear traction but with a good set up should still be very neutral. I'll be running 4rm but still no post worthy set up.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:36 PM   #14297
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thanks for the info.

So what are peoples thoughts on loaded up Dex210s that are out there? anything to look for in particular as must haves?

the one I got coming was $70 shipped with motor and ESC, looks like kit version.

was thinking these:

- DimeC +8 plastic chassis and whatever needed to get it to work
- LRC rear hangars (front and rear)

basically to get low traction dirt.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:51 PM   #14298
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those and possibly shock towers. Some tend to break rear towers. I happen to have carbon front and rear towers for sale Other then that they're pretty solid, alloy RF pivots were needed originally, but with the new type B ones (included with the front pivot you need for a dimec chassis) they're much stronger
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:58 PM   #14299
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cool.

So whats the word on blinky 17.5 for spurs? assuming guys running the baby ones? Also, what about the gear covers, still an issue?

Looking at the Tresrey layshaft setup to use AE ones on the cheap unless someone knows of durango specific spurs that aren't $10 a piece?
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Old 04-24-2014, 08:34 PM   #14300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
hey guys, well I took the plunge after seeing a deal on a dex210 that I couldn't pass up.

Anyway, the surfaces I will be running it on this summer are low traction dirt, like black dirt unless something changes. Tires that are popular at least in 1/8 scale in those conditions range from calibers to blockades.

Another track also can be loose, but is more hard packed, I believe in 1/8 scale when loose blockades or holeshot style in super sort seems to work well.

Anyway, all that said I am trying to piece together what upgrades I should look for that will help the most in these conditions.

Right now since its a V1 car and looks to be the kit version, not the RTR, I am thinking of upgrading it to V2 specs as far as things that will help the most for traction.

I am also looking at other things for durability.

I didn't see anything on the very first page so I figure why not ask here.

So, with all that said, what all do you recommend?

Lastly, what is the latest word on converting to 12mm hex front and rear as far as parts needed and durability?

Thanks everyone. Looking forward to trying the vehicle out.
I'd personally run RM3 with no rear kick.
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:10 PM   #14301
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I ran 35/69 at motorama and could of used a 36t pinion, possibly more. My revtech was like 130* until I had the timing up to 65* and came off the track at 145*F. I have a voodoo tuned motor so I would work up to that, probably 33/69 as a starting point. I use the RW spurs and have had no issue so I don't mind the cost. Running AE spurs if you want cheap spurs is probably the way to go. I'm just careful with the screws on the gear cover and have had no issues to date.
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:00 PM   #14302
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Where are you finding the RW 69t? I would pick up a couple if I could find them.
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:10 AM   #14303
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I got them from my local hobby shop/work, Great Hobbies. Appears they've no longer available from our distributors so you can't mail order any of them

http://www.greathobbies.com/search/r...srchvendor=RWR
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:35 PM   #14304
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Schumacher buggy spurs also fit and come in 69 & 71 and are a tad cheaper than RW
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:03 PM   #14305
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got another on the way too. looks like I may give the Avid setup a try as it has some of the parts.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:35 AM   #14306
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Was wondering whether running v2 rear tower, arms and type b gearbox with the v1 bb shocks would be ok, and what about the v2 front tower with v1 arms, so basically i want a mm car with shocks mounted on the rear and maybe use the front tower that comes with the v2 rear tower, any reason why the above would not work?
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:34 AM   #14307
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I think the rear shocks stayed the same, so that should be fine, but the front tower is a new geometry to go with the arms and shorter shock, so I think you need all or nothing in the front
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Old 04-27-2014, 07:56 AM   #14308
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The V1 front towerwould work fine. The only difference is that the V2 tower shock mounts are a little farther rearward. The shock bottom is offset. On the V1 you run the longer side rearward while on the V2 you run it on the front. Just mount it like you would a V1 and you'll be fine.
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Old 04-27-2014, 01:52 PM   #14309
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Thanks for the help on the v2 towers i may not even use the front tower its just that i broke a ballstud trying to get the wrench onto it and obviously the v2 tower helps with that but i will eventually swap the ballstuds to the new 2mm ones now as they break
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:04 PM   #14310
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Rear shafts are 3mm shorter on v2, front shaft's and shock body's are 1.5mm shorter on v2.

Running V2 front arms with V1 shock body's and shaft limits your down stroke by 1.5mm


I had this last week but have now gone and changed my entire V1 210 into a V2 minus the 8mm+ and LRC Rear block. Cars feels good with the new changes but this was on a really loose surface running RM3



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