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Old 11-01-2011, 03:30 AM   #1411
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what do people use to sand/resurface the diff plates? Or is there any other brand of diff plates that would a direct replacement for the 210 that I could buy now? I just want to start my diff from scratch
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:38 AM   #1412
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Have you got a photo of the setup? There shouldn't be enough plunge to hit the nut if the diff is correctly tightened.
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Guys I too am confused as to how you're assembling the diff and trans with problems. The diff is easy to assemble if you follow the instructions.

The only way you could incorrectly assemble the thrust is to not have the race side facing the thrust balls. Even if the washers are different thickness's which I don't believe they are this would not change the overall size of the thrust assembly. The thrust retaining clip should slide right into place as long as the assembly is fully seated.

A standard trick when assembling the diff is to take a pair of pliers and compress the diff spring a few times. This will quicken the break in time and lessen the chance of having a diff that is initially too loose.

Your rear dog bone should be no where near hitting the adjustment screw. If this is the case you've put the diff together wrong. Again make sure you're putting the diff screw in the out drive with the female end. The spring and thrust nut go into the male ended out drive.

The only thing I've seen a few guys miss is the single thin shim between the two inner bearings.

The way I preset my diff is to tighten it fully in small amounts while working the diff a bit. This will prevent any chance of flat spotting the balls. Back it off 1/3 of a turn and use 2 allen wrenches to make sure I can't slip it by hand. Install.

To break it in make 100% sure your slipper is loose! Hold one tire on the ground and work the throttle at low speeds for say 5-10 seconds. Repeat on the other side. Tighten up the slipper and make sure your diff doesn't bark at all.
Guys we are good now. When I assemblied the diff it was very tight. Couldn't spin the gear while holding the outdrives. But once putting the electrics in and testing in the driveway, it broke in and I needed to tighten it more. Once I did this, it was fine. I guess I jumped the gun, but I thought it was to tight to begin with. After playing around I can't wait to get this thing on the track! First 2wd in some years, usually all four wheel for me............. Thanks again for everyones help.
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:00 AM   #1413
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Nope, just using 330001. As long as you are running medium or short wheel base, no need for the bent ball cup. The straight ones from 330001 clear just fine (very close, but no contact)

Nope, just use 330001, unless you are running a long wheelbase, which will make them hit the dust cover... I think.

OK just ball caps thought you were using the ball studs as well.
Thanks
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:54 AM   #1414
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what do people use to sand/resurface the diff plates? Or is there any other brand of diff plates that would a direct replacement for the 210 that I could buy now? I just want to start my diff from scratch
I always start at 400 sandpaper. One time dry and the next wet. Doing both sides in a figure 8 motion. I then move to 800 and polish with 1200. Then clean the plates with motor spray and assemble.
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Old 11-01-2011, 05:11 AM   #1415
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Guys we are good now. When I assemblied the diff it was very tight. Couldn't spin the gear while holding the outdrives. But once putting the electrics in and testing in the driveway, it broke in and I needed to tighten it more. Once I did this, it was fine. I guess I jumped the gun, but I thought it was to tight to begin with. After playing around I can't wait to get this thing on the track! First 2wd in some years, usually all four wheel for me............. Thanks again for everyones help.
just curious, but did you compress the diff spring handful of times before assembly the first time?
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:10 AM   #1416
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just curious, but did you compress the diff spring handful of times before assembly the first time?
Ya four times, each time 90* from each other. When it was binding it was very little. You could feel it in the arm (without shock) but still had full movement. So with just a little turn on the diff screw was just enough! Thanks....
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:15 AM   #1417
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I was doing the same thing and I haven't even built my car yet.
WH WH WHAT??????
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:24 AM   #1418
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WH WH WHAT??????
Well....my kit wont be here till Friday. Can't build it before it gets here.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:57 AM   #1419
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I have to ask..are these hard impacts where the ball cups are popping off or are you guys experiencing something I haven't yet come across?
Read one of my previous posts that describes hitting a turn marshals foot at like 3mph, and it popped a ball cup. I have had the car just BARELY traction roll over and do a single roll, and lost a ball cup. I had 4 go on the first night I owned the car, and I haven't had that many total, in the last 3 years, across every car I have owned combined. Everybody was watching the car go around as I am the only guy running one, and they were curious... and nobody could believe how easy the ball cups were popping off.

Moved to 330001 original ball cups, and haven't had any issues since.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:58 AM   #1420
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OK just ball caps thought you were using the ball studs as well.
Thanks
Nope.. just using the stock 2.5mm ball studs that came in the kit.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:08 AM   #1421
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I'm not sure why everyone is having problems with the ball cups. I have had to full race days and only had one ball cup pop off and it was from a very hard impact....I've had contact, crashes and even a few cart wheels and no ball cups popping off......

I have to ask..are these hard impacts where the ball cups are popping off or are you guys experiencing something I haven't yet come across?

I also plan to try out the gear diff but until I do I'm going to follow Jonny5's lead and try out some ceramic diff balls and see how that works.
On the advice of ball diff guru Fred over at B Fast we went with tungsten carbide balls. I've used ceramic in the past with good result, but as he told me, when properly setup carbide balls will outlast many sets of rings and better transfer the power of today's brushless motors. The one nice thing about ceramic however is that they will not flat spot if you don't get the diff set right initially.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:15 AM   #1422
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Read one of my previous posts that describes hitting a turn marshals foot at like 3mph, and it popped a ball cup. I have had the car just BARELY traction roll over and do a single roll, and lost a ball cup. I had 4 go on the first night I owned the car, and I haven't had that many total, in the last 3 years, across every car I have owned combined. Everybody was watching the car go around as I am the only guy running one, and they were curious... and nobody could believe how easy the ball cups were popping off.

Moved to 330001 original ball cups, and haven't had any issues since.
Would boiling the plastic ball cups have any effect?
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:17 AM   #1423
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Would boiling the plastic ball cups have any effect?
Iv never tried doing anything like that. Would the goal be to soften the plastic?
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:20 AM   #1424
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Iv never tried doing anything like that. Would the goal be to soften the plastic?
Maybe give it a little more give overall so the body would bend a little to take the shock. Just a thought...
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:23 AM   #1425
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Well....my kit wont be here till Friday. Can't build it before it gets here.
Just curious as to the manufacturer of this kit. Is a change in order for my friend Ray? (The wheeler is pretty good, too. And I can show you how to get a Kinetic in there)
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