80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
04-14-2014, 01:50 AM
Thanks!!
Has anyone else had trouble with binding issues with the V1 casing? Ive tried replacing EVERY part in the casing including the gearbox housing and followed the build as per manual but still get binding. Anyone else had the same thing? Ive read elsewhere there was moulding issues with the V1 gearbox and they have tried to resolve this in the V2 Type B gearbox..
Any Help Appreciated!
Has anyone else had trouble with binding issues with the V1 casing? Ive tried replacing EVERY part in the casing including the gearbox housing and followed the build as per manual but still get binding. Anyone else had the same thing? Ive read elsewhere there was moulding issues with the V1 gearbox and they have tried to resolve this in the V2 Type B gearbox..
Any Help Appreciated!
The layshaft is the same between the 2 versions.
Last edited by ekt; 04-14-2014 at 02:00 AM.
04-14-2014, 02:42 AM
04-14-2014, 07:22 AM
there was a batch they where too wide creating binding
04-14-2014, 04:29 PM
I just got my V2 rear arms installed. The rest won't be here until tomorrow. The design is much nicer than the V1. This is what the arms should have been like all along. I'm excited to see the rest of the parts. The V2 is going to be a really good car.
04-14-2014, 06:17 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
I sent Fred a PM but I thought I would get the rest of you to weigh in as well. Obviously the DEX210 market is flooded with V1s. Some of which are very highly upgraded. I received my DEX210 V1 and realized that I will be wanting to quickly add a variety of upgrades (mainly +8mm chassis). It appears that it may be better for me to purchase another DEX210 (sell my current one) rather than pay full price to upgrade this one.
Keeping that in mind should I go for the V2 bnib? I usually prefer to wait for a reputable seller and purchase used (more bang for my buck in most cases). So, there are several extremely well upgraded V1s (with the +8mm chassis) that I could slap some V2 A-arms on and essentially have a similar V2 but with more aftermarket parts. Any thoughts on these ideas? I realize it is primarily personal preference but I thought I would get a variety of opinions first.
Keeping that in mind should I go for the V2 bnib? I usually prefer to wait for a reputable seller and purchase used (more bang for my buck in most cases). So, there are several extremely well upgraded V1s (with the +8mm chassis) that I could slap some V2 A-arms on and essentially have a similar V2 but with more aftermarket parts. Any thoughts on these ideas? I realize it is primarily personal preference but I thought I would get a variety of opinions first.
04-14-2014, 06:38 PM
Part of the fun of rc for me is trying things. I get bored with just one thing. I'm enjoying upgrading a V1 to a V2. The V2 kit really isn't all that expensive new though so if your goal is to have a V2, just buying one will be cheaper in the end.
04-15-2014, 12:30 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
I just ordered most of the v2 parts that i need to make my v1 to a v2. I forgot to get the new front shock body and shock shaft. I cant wait for my parts to get here.
04-15-2014, 01:37 AM
Tech Apprentice
There are two washers on the idler gear pin on both sides of the bearing according to what the manual says.
Instead of using both of the washers I used it only on one side.
With only one shim there is no binding any more and the gears spin freely.
04-15-2014, 02:17 AM
I had issues with binding in the gearbox too.
There are two washers on the idler gear pin on both sides of the bearing according to what the manual says.
Instead of using both of the washers I used it only on one side.
With only one shim there is no binding any more and the gears spin freely.
There are two washers on the idler gear pin on both sides of the bearing according to what the manual says.
Instead of using both of the washers I used it only on one side.
With only one shim there is no binding any more and the gears spin freely.
04-15-2014, 02:29 AM
Does anyone know if any other brands pistons will fit in the Durango shocks?
Last edited by snowman_evil; 04-15-2014 at 03:43 AM.
04-15-2014, 06:37 AM
If I want to run the LRC RR hanger, do I need to pair that with a new LRC FR hanger? Or just the regular FR hanger?
I would think both would have to change the pick up points but couldn't find anything on the FR that's -2
I would think both would have to change the pick up points but couldn't find anything on the FR that's -2
04-15-2014, 08:14 AM
are there any benefits to running the +8 chassis?
04-15-2014, 09:39 AM
04-15-2014, 09:48 AM
Thanx.
The +0 chassis will be better on a small track, shorter wheel base. The +8 will be better on bigger tracks with more open turns, the buggy won't be as snappy into turns
The +0 chassis will be better on a small track, shorter wheel base. The +8 will be better on bigger tracks with more open turns, the buggy won't be as snappy into turns
04-15-2014, 09:51 AM
@fq06: I'd suggest looking at this exotek quick change rear hanger piece. It fits the Type B and the aftermarket chassis as well. It makes it super easy to adjust without dissembling the rear end, just loosen the screws. It will allow you to do High Roll Center and Low Roll Center settings with the appropriate RR hangers (exotek makes several options) I love mine!
http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-r...ith-shims-lrc/
http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-r...ith-shims-lrc/