ridgeracer

iTrader: (4)

I do, one MM With the RDRP+11 chassis. one MM With the Exotek +8 carbon chassis, one RM With the Dimec B-type chassis and one RM With the original alloy chassis. Cant deside who is best, but MM for astroturf and RM for medium grip clay.

fredk

Yes go for the 2 buggies my son and I run mid motor 4 gear for carpet and rear motor for dirt.
Fredk

fq06

iTrader: (12)

In anticipation of the V2 rollers were going for about $120. Now that the V2 is out?...

I would keep it if I were thinking of running a RM and MM configuration, I wouldn't want to tear it down for a different track and getting $100 out of the roller is about useless. I would think RM would be better at hotrods or any of the local outdoor tracks.

I'm out this weekend but maybe I'll catch you at the track next Friday or the weekend

thefan

iTrader: (3)

The latest craze at my local carpet track is to use a 4wd platform be it assoc yoko schum etc.. and remove all front diff and drive shafts and race it in 2wd class so you end up with a true mid motor car and they have room for a fan, anyone else seen this at there track?

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

Got a smoking good deal on two cars plus parts/wheels/tires, look HERE

white03

Okay now that I have things soldered up I have a few questions about these motors and escs and timing. As you know I purchased a trakpower system and looking at the motor its timing is at 30 degrees, where the esc was set to blinky mode. So as far as timing goes how far do you adjust the motor and esc? I dont want to kill my system. I did hear the more advanced timing you run, you cut the life expectancy of your motor. I guess I'm looking for a good place to start. Also, is it better to advance esc timing and leave the motor at 0 degrees? Let me know.....I'm looking to learn this.

chet

^^ This is what they have been doing in the UK but only on really high bite tracks. I run on Ozite in the winter so its med traction and the 210 is faster then running a 410 as a 2wd.

If you search it you will see Jorn N. did this a few times.

SPFDheli

iTrader: (28)

Hey White03,
I only recently got back into racing after an 8 year break so brushless was all new to me. Here are a couple of articles I read to help me better understand timing:

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/20
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013...ushless-motor/
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2014...-motor-timing/

I just did a quick google search (when I was looking) and those are the articles I read. If you goolge the topic a few RCtech threads appear as well. Hope this helps.

white03

Thanks SPFDHeli. That helps clear it up for me. I knew about motor timing, but not so much as esc timing.

SPFDheli

iTrader: (28)

Glad that helped!

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Does anyone know if the DEX210 V2 gearbox will fit the DEX210 V1 RTR? Also does anyone know if TD have resolved the moulding issues they had with the V1 gearbox?

Thanks!

ekt

iTrader: (4)

You need BUMPER & REAR TOP DECK SET (TYPE B) TD320269 and REAR CHASSIS BRACE SET (Type B) TD320270 to run the type B gearbox in RM, the swaybar mount has been molded on to the type B gearbox so they wont fit the old rear braces.
Nothing else needed for MM.

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Thanks!!

Has anyone else had trouble with binding issues with the V1 casing? Ive tried replacing EVERY part in the casing including the gearbox housing and followed the build as per manual but still get binding. Anyone else had the same thing? Ive read elsewhere there was moulding issues with the V1 gearbox and they have tried to resolve this in the V2 Type B gearbox..

Any Help Appreciated!

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Also does anyone know if you use the V2 Gearbox, if you require the new layshaft (TD210033) or if the standard V1 shaft will work fine??

micholix

Does anyone have a CAD file from the aluminum chassis plate TD320125 for me?
I would like to try to make my own one, with some upgrades...

It is the standard length, not the new +8 one.


Any help would be much appreciated.


Thx in advance!