R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree23Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-05-2014, 05:57 PM   #14101
Tech Fanatic
 
snowman_evil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gold Coast, Queenland
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to snowman_evil
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chet View Post
RTR kits comes with 6 hole pistons. Im not a fan of 6th hole pistons, if you check on pro drivers setups they never run them. The new set ups they have posted for the v2 are the type b pistons. 3 holes not sure the sizes off hand if you check durangos site you will see them in setups.

As for anti squat I saw in the last page if your track has traction and has high speed sweepers. LRC will be way better then 0 anti squat all the pros ever run is LRC now. If there isn't a lot of traction HRC may be better.
Thanks for the info! Can anyone confirm Shock oil weight front and rear in the RTR is 450cst?
__________________
DEX410V3 - Tekin - Spektrum - Panther
GCRC Raceway - "Lightning"
snowman_evil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 06:08 PM   #14102
Tech Adept
 
Lone Star's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by knowitall156 View Post
I've been racing my V2 for about a month now. My set up is nearly identical to my V1 with the exception of a spring change in front. I'm also running the plastic chassis as the 17.5 class is what everyone is racing at my local track right now. The platform is super easy to drive and predictable to push. The changes made to the front end keep the arms from digging. The chassis bracing has been changed to get the motor and trans in and out easily. The rear arms have holes for the shocks to be run in front or back of the arms. Funny how all the guys who think the Durango is a sub par platform are hanging out at my pit examining the buggy because they are getting beat. This is an excellent durable buggy that I would highly recommend to anyone considering buying one.
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
__________________
DEX210V2, Toxic Tops Shuttle body for DEX210v2, lightened 7075-t6 3mm chassis.
Lone Star is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 07:50 PM   #14103
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 452
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
The Durango runs well like Associated, but is easier to drive fast for a longer period of time without mistake(s). I run at HotRod a Hobbies in SoCal. It's outdoor night racing on a watered track that if it's breezy dries out and can be slick. I run RM3 and never have a traction problem. When you get your V2, if you need any set up help from me just let me know.
__________________
Team Durango DESC 410V2,Team Durango DESC 210R
Team Durango DEX 410V5,Team Durango DEX 210V2
Mike Maniscalchi www.team-durango.com
knowitall156 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 08:18 PM   #14104
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Punxsutawney, Pa
Posts: 521
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I run on a real small carpet track with small jumps. I'm having a problem with it nose diving off of the bigger jump... most people are too.. they say it's the way the jumps are made. the only cars that don't seem to be having the problem are the b5's and SC

I'm running MM4 with battery all the way back.. is there something that I can change to help stop it from nose diving?
cripplethreat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 08:36 PM   #14105
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cripplethreat View Post
I run on a real small carpet track with small jumps. I'm having a problem with it nose diving off of the bigger jump... most people are too.. they say it's the way the jumps are made. the only cars that don't seem to be having the problem are the b5's and SC

I'm running MM4 with battery all the way back.. is there something that I can change to help stop it from nose diving?
First and foremost, check if the suspension is bottoming out as it crests the jump. If the back hits the ramp on take-off, that could be the cause of the nosedive. You can go a step up on the rear oil weight and see if it makes a difference, raise the car by 1-2mm might help. Or if you don't want to play with the settings, try keeping constant throttle as you come up to the jump as opposed to getting on the gas hard, cause when you are on power, the back tends to squat or sink more.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 08:39 PM   #14106
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
So far I haven't had any issues with my car. I think the 1st generation kits had weaker parts, but the current crop of cars including the RTR with the performance upgraded included in the kits are pretty strong and I haven't seen any break at the track. I let a bunch of drivers try out my car and they have tumbled it quite a bit and so far, nothing has broken with the exception of the gear covers. The Exotek or Avid gear covers last so much longer.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 09:30 PM   #14107
Tech Regular
 
Pittster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Newcastle NSW
Posts: 399
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Anyone running the 210v2 straight arms on there 210v1 (23mm shock body instead of 21.5mm)

what spring you running up front was going to use the dark blue but the v2 kit says red dark but the setup sheets say black.

Track is dirt running RM3 can be loose and blue groove
__________________
Team Associated B6D, Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.0, Hobbywing V10 7.5t
Team Associated B64D, Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1, Hobbywing V10 G2 6.5t
Team Associated B5M CE, Tekin Rs Gen2, Fleta ZX 17.5t
Pittster is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 10:05 PM   #14108
Tech Elite
 
rcjunky1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 2,184
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

You're jumping the gun there :P I'll have the front arms on mine once they're available, but I'll also be running the new shock package. The 23mm stroke shocks will have more droop but less up travel, probably not ideal. I'll be converting my v1 to 95% v2 so we'll see how it goes (no ballstuds or outdrives, will probably be running the gear diff or the regular ball diff, we'll see, running an AE diff is still a possibility) I think with the front arms you'll want the new tower and shorter shocks for the complete swap over, they don't just re make parts for the sake of it so I'd do all or nothing.
__________________
Official distributor of Dan-O-Mite Custom Parts- Durango 210 RF pivot blocks
Andrew Butters' Burghgraef
Team Durango Canada
Great Hobbies, Hobbico, Skyrc, Exotek
rcjunky1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 10:12 PM   #14109
Tech Regular
 
Pittster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Newcastle NSW
Posts: 399
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
You're jumping the gun there :P I'll have the front arms on mine once they're available, but I'll also be running the new shock package. The 23mm stroke shocks will have more droop but less up travel, probably not ideal. I'll be converting my v1 to 95% v2 so we'll see how it goes (no ballstuds or outdrives, will probably be running the gear diff or the regular ball diff, we'll see, running an AE diff is still a possibility) I think with the front arms you'll want the new tower and shorter shocks for the complete swap over, they don't just re make parts for the sake of it so I'd do all or nothing.
Should of explained I have the V2 shock towers and Straight arms already installed, shock body and shorter shafts were immediately available, I thought I would just see how it goes with half the parts, the 23mm shock body is no issue as you can limit drop with the screws, but I will have 1.5mm less upstroke, I will just see if its a issue or not when I race next.
__________________
Team Associated B6D, Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.0, Hobbywing V10 7.5t
Team Associated B64D, Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1, Hobbywing V10 G2 6.5t
Team Associated B5M CE, Tekin Rs Gen2, Fleta ZX 17.5t
Pittster is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 10:21 PM   #14110
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pittster View Post
Anyone running the 210v2 straight arms on there 210v1 (23mm shock body instead of 21.5mm)

what spring you running up front was going to use the dark blue but the v2 kit says red dark but the setup sheets say black.

Track is dirt running RM3 can be loose and blue groove
Dark Blue or Dark Red is pretty stiff. I don't even think any of the pro guys were using that hard in OCRC or at Cactus and even then those were med-high bite tracks.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 11:14 PM   #14111
Tech Regular
 
Azagar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Bay Area
Posts: 293
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Had no idea the front shock lost 1.5mm with the v2. Wouldn't it be better to just limit the down travel using one of the rubber shock stoppers inside the shock body, I personally already use 1 in the front and 2 in the rear shocks to limit the up travel. I'd say try out springs in the dark green range. It's the most common choice for rm3, shock length shouldn't change that.
__________________
Team Durango DEX210
Avid | AKA | Exotek | Jconcepts | KO Propo | Lunsford | Tekin | Turnigy Nano-tech
Azagar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 11:55 PM   #14112
Tech Regular
 
Pittster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Newcastle NSW
Posts: 399
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Dark Blue or Dark Red is pretty stiff. I don't even think any of the pro guys were using that hard in OCRC or at Cactus and even then those were med-high bite tracks.
I thought it was odd also tlaking about Front springs not rear.

Check V2 210 manual on page 42 and 52,53,54

V1 210 & v3 410 came with Dark Blue fronts in the kit.
__________________
Team Associated B6D, Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.0, Hobbywing V10 7.5t
Team Associated B64D, Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1, Hobbywing V10 G2 6.5t
Team Associated B5M CE, Tekin Rs Gen2, Fleta ZX 17.5t
Pittster is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 04:30 AM   #14113
Tech Fanatic
 
snowman_evil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gold Coast, Queenland
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to snowman_evil
Default

Can anyone confirm the parts needed to convert the RTR dex210 to the mid motor configuration. From what the TD website suggests its only 2x idler gears, 1x idler pin, 2x shims and 2x bearings. Is that correct? Nothing else required like extra or different screws etc?

Thank you!!
__________________
DEX410V3 - Tekin - Spektrum - Panther
GCRC Raceway - "Lightning"
snowman_evil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 04:31 AM   #14114
Tech Fanatic
 
snowman_evil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gold Coast, Queenland
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to snowman_evil
Default

Screen shot from the TD website
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-screen-shot-2014-04-06-9.30.38-pm.jpg  
__________________
DEX410V3 - Tekin - Spektrum - Panther
GCRC Raceway - "Lightning"
snowman_evil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 07:04 AM   #14115
Tech Champion
 
fq06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,628
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
I've ran 1/8 buggy for years and over the past few years wheeler & 4x SCT. This is my 1st 2wd buggy and I am very impressed with how tough it is. I have driven it for a few months and the one part that broke was a rear hub. There have been many wrecks that I thought for sure would take out the little guy but no, got marshalled and still in the race
I wouldn't be too worried about durability.
__________________
BCE SCT410 / Hobbywing 3656sd ~ RX8.2
DEX210 / Trinity 17.5 ~ RS.2
Westcoast Raceway (R.I.P.) | SMC | PowerLab
fq06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16563 Today 04:32 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-07-2017 11:57 PM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 09:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:06 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net