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Old 10-31-2011, 12:38 PM   #1396
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Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
That is what I installed except I used the 10mm Losi 22 ball studs.
For the rear inner link I used a long Kyosho end and bent it.

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Old 10-31-2011, 12:38 PM   #1397
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Has anyone tried the Lunsford TI ball studs I think they have them in 3mm now and I heard there ball cups are nice
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...gory_Code=BALL
Seems a little pricey. TLR has Ti ballstuds for the 22 as well. Maybe use them in high stress areas.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:48 PM   #1398
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:49 PM   #1399
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So your using 330001 and using the bent ball cups from the 210 kit?
Nope, just using 330001. As long as you are running medium or short wheel base, no need for the bent ball cup. The straight ones from 330001 clear just fine (very close, but no contact)

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II guess I would have to use the stock bent ball cups in rear inner position.
Nope, just use 330001, unless you are running a long wheelbase, which will make them hit the dust cover... I think.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:58 PM   #1400
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More diff issues...but let me start by saying I love the car. The fit and finish is awesome, materials are high quality, and the overall build was a good one. Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to put in any laps because of my diff problems. I have no problem admitting I am no diff guru and have never been able to build the "perfect" diff, but I have been building them since gold pan RC10's were around so I do understand how they work and how they go together. I am on diff build number five now (counting the initial build) and it does nothing but slip. Even fully locked (or what should be fully locked) I get immediate diff bark as soon as I pull the trigger. The shim between the bearings is in place, rings sanded, thrust washer races are facing the balls, black grease on thrust assembly and diff lube on diff assembly. The only thing that strikes me as odd is that the thrust bearing is only caged on one side, is this normal?

EDIT: short vid of slippage, last 2 trigger pulls (very end of video) you can clearly hear the diff barking, this is 1/4 turn from fully locked. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heu1S7Y4aW8

-rocky b

Last edited by flatspunout; 10-31-2011 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:33 PM   #1401
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More diff issues...but let me start by saying I love the car. The fit and finish is awesome, materials are high quality, and the overall build was a good one. Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to put in any laps because of my diff problems. I have no problem admitting I am no diff guru and have never been able to build the "perfect" diff, but I have been building them since gold pan RC10's were around so I do understand how they work and how they go together. I am on diff build number five now (counting the initial build) and it does nothing but slip. Even fully locked (or what should be fully locked) I get immediate diff bark as soon as I pull the trigger. The shim between the bearings is in place, rings sanded, thrust washer races are facing the balls, black grease on thrust assembly and diff lube on diff assembly. The only thing that strikes me as odd is that the thrust bearing is only caged on one side, is this normal?

-rocky b
If that is the case, you have built something very very wrong... usually when diff issues like this show up with a diff like this one, the problem usually stems around the thrust assembly in regards to it's position with the circlip. You have the thrust assembly sitting inside the outdrive, and the circlip holding it in place, yeah? You have the shim in-between the two smaller bearings in the middle?
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:39 PM   #1402
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EDIT: short vid of slippage, last 2 trigger pulls (very end of video) you can clearly hear the diff barking, this is 1/4 turn from fully locked. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heu1S7Y4aW8

-rocky b
Sounds awful... but just FYI, running ceramic 3mm balls, I think my diff is tighter than 1/4 back from fully locked.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:41 PM   #1403
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
If that is the case, you have built something very very wrong... usually when diff issues like this show up with a diff like this one, the problem usually stems around the thrust assembly in regards to it's position with the circlip. You have the thrust assembly sitting inside the outdrive, and the circlip holding it in place, yeah? You have the shim in-between the two smaller bearings in the middle?
Yes and yes...have been very careful to put everything together exactly as the manual shows it. If I feel like taking everything apart again tonight I'll do a vid of the build.

-rocky b
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:46 PM   #1404
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
If that is the case, you have built something very very wrong... usually when diff issues like this show up with a diff like this one, the problem usually stems around the thrust assembly in regards to it's position with the circlip. You have the thrust assembly sitting inside the outdrive, and the circlip holding it in place, yeah? You have the shim in-between the two smaller bearings in the middle?
Regarding the thrust assembly, should there be tension on the thrust once the circlip is installed? I noticed that once I have fully seated the clip, there is clearance between it and the inner washer, I can actually put the tip of a hex wrench on the washer and spin it.

-rocky b
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:27 PM   #1405
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Regarding the thrust assembly, should there be tension on the thrust once the circlip is installed? I noticed that once I have fully seated the clip, there is clearance between it and the inner washer, I can actually put the tip of a hex wrench on the washer and spin it.

-rocky b
I don't think it should be pinching the thrust, no. Do you get proper diff action when holding the diff in-hand? What happens when you tighten the diff down just a bit more? 1/4 turn back from full might just be a tad loose, however I never built mine with the stock balls, I built my original with ceramics, which always require a little more tension to keep them from slipping. So if I can get a full ceramic diff to not slip, the stock balls should REALLY not slip (ceramics are more slippery than steal or carbide).

Id be happy to look at a video if you have the time and inclination to make one.

-cpt.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:15 PM   #1406
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Yes and yes...have been very careful to put everything together exactly as the manual shows it. If I feel like taking everything apart again tonight I'll do a vid of the build.

-rocky b
I'm curious what your rings look like. I had a similar issue on Cush's buggy that turned out to be from the diff not being tight enough on the buggy's first run. The diff slipped and flat-spotted the balls, and once I pulled it apart the rings had very rough grooves in them. Granted he raced it for a day like that (didn't have any parts to rebuild it with at the track), but the diff was very notchy and would almost lock when we tried to tighten it, but constantly barked on the track.

Once the new balls showed up (thanks to B-Fast for a rush delivery) I flipped the rings and rebuilt the diff per the manual. After a thorough break-in and getting the diff/slipper set to the track conditions, it's working perfectly and is as smooth as butter.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:10 PM   #1407
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Default Ball Cups

I'm not sure why everyone is having problems with the ball cups. I have had to full race days and only had one ball cup pop off and it was from a very hard impact....I've had contact, crashes and even a few cart wheels and no ball cups popping off......

I have to ask..are these hard impacts where the ball cups are popping off or are you guys experiencing something I haven't yet come across?

I also plan to try out the gear diff but until I do I'm going to follow Jonny5's lead and try out some ceramic diff balls and see how that works.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:17 PM   #1408
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You may have to much dif gress in there. That was the prob with my dif on the 1st run turned it all the way down and still sliped. Pulled the def apart and pulled some of the gress out and ran fine after that. the out drives will hold almost all the gress u put in it. Thay are a snug fit. Thats just my 2 cents
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:26 PM   #1409
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Broke my 0-3 FR kickup mount after hitting a I biem at the in door track just put the 3-3 in and ran grate.
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:08 AM   #1410
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Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
More diff issues...but let me start by saying I love the car. The fit and finish is awesome, materials are high quality, and the overall build was a good one. Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to put in any laps because of my diff problems. I have no problem admitting I am no diff guru and have never been able to build the "perfect" diff, but I have been building them since gold pan RC10's were around so I do understand how they work and how they go together. I am on diff build number five now (counting the initial build) and it does nothing but slip. Even fully locked (or what should be fully locked) I get immediate diff bark as soon as I pull the trigger. The shim between the bearings is in place, rings sanded, thrust washer races are facing the balls, black grease on thrust assembly and diff lube on diff assembly. The only thing that strikes me as odd is that the thrust bearing is only caged on one side, is this normal?

EDIT: short vid of slippage, last 2 trigger pulls (very end of video) you can clearly hear the diff barking, this is 1/4 turn from fully locked.
-rocky b
A mate of mine had the same problem at our track. It was a faulty circlip, it had uneven edges, try sanding it or changing it to an new one (hope this helps).
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