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Old 03-28-2014, 01:43 PM   #14056
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Are you trying to get more grip from the mid motor?
Adding weight to the suspension hanger is more effective than putting the weight in the rear. Or adding weight near the rear axle.
You can also try 4 toe and 1.5 or 0 antisquat.

Another quick trick is adding a single 7g lead automotive weight to each rear hub. That instantly give you more rear traction.
Yes, i am looking for more rear grip. I would rather not add weight but dont know what to do. Do you have a mm4 setup or one to suggest available that i could checkout?
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:43 PM   #14057
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I run the 0* brass rf hanger. I also have 4 of those 7g lead squares shoe-goo'd to the back of my transmission case where that block would hang from. Much cheaper, just have to re-glue them every time I rebuild the transmission.
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:56 PM   #14058
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@RaceEverything: Which track are you racing on? What's the surface like? Big jumps? Lots of little bumps? Clay or dirt? etc…

I'd suggest going through on your own and creating your own setup using the Fredswain spring balancing method as this is the best way to achieve a well setup car. This requires some time but given the differences in electronics and batteries it's the best way to achieve a nice balanced setup. Once you are balanced you car will drive like a dream. IMO the two most important things are your Center of gravity position vs Center of Mass, and then spring balance. If I had to put a third item I'd say it would be pack. All of these things are talked about in detail here in this thread:

Tune With Camber Links

All that being said, I will try and post my current setup later on. It's also in this forum a few pages back…..I have arrived at this MM4 setup using the fred swain method.

Lastly I also highly recommend the shorty packs…really makes the car come alive and my setup probably wouldn't work with a full size pack. My springs are too light…


Hope that helps! More later
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:12 PM   #14059
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
I run the 0* brass rf hanger. I also have 4 of those 7g lead squares shoe-goo'd to the back of my transmission case where that block would hang from. Much cheaper, just have to re-glue them every time I rebuild the transmission.
Try sticking one 7g on each of the rear hubs. Its a greater effect than on the transmission
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:14 PM   #14060
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Originally Posted by Race Everything View Post
Yes, i am looking for more rear grip. I would rather not add weight but dont know what to do. Do you have a mm4 setup or one to suggest available that i could checkout?
It would be easier if you posted your setup here and tell us the type of track, level of grip, bumpy or smooth and perhaps we can figure a way to tweak your setup to your liking.

Or you can do Fred setup method, if someone can repost the whole method step by step on here again.. Search isn't liking me today.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:23 PM   #14061
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Try sticking one 7g on each of the rear hubs. Its a greater effect than on the transmission
No thanks, I'd rather have an extra ounce of sprung weight than a half ounce of unsprung weight. Plus, I have no problems with traction the way it is now. It's not just good for a mm car, it's good, period.
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:48 PM   #14062
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I made up some brass plates and mounted one of them to the bottom of my 210. they look just like the 410 version under the rear axle. I buy the plates from ebay and cut them to fit. I have gave up on the 410 and am getting back into 2 wd and will get my 210 back in action. Last time I tried it, I broke the rear tower, but it is ready to go again.
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:08 PM   #14063
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someone was asking for a MM4 setup:

This is my general setup that I run at OCRC and also at SCVRC. I don't really make too many changes between the two tracks. I've been trying to achieve a good general setup to start from and then I will tune more specifically. Just wanted to give some details on what I have so far…

Tires are usually Barcodes or Ions right now. Sometimes Panther Rattlers. Always Clay compound. AKA red foams.

Front:
Avid Red Springs
25 Wt 1.2mmx6 pistons (plan to try 3 hole soon)
25 degrees caster

Rear:
Avid Yellow Springs
25 wt 1.2mmx6 pistons (3 hole coming soon)
Exotek LRC rear hanger setup with quick change anti squat. 0 degree anti squat.
3 degrees of toe in.

Battery is all the way back against the battery stopper. The car feels a little rear biased in terms of weight. ESC is up against the servo. I'm using the +11 chassis from RDRP. I've hard tower has the new V2 chassis now….

This car handles very very well. It responds very well to tuning changes and driving input. I'll have more feedback on it's performance soon. Hope this helps...
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:39 AM   #14064
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I was using the skinny front tire and have decided to try the wider version. I really like the look.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:54 PM   #14065
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I've just done something that I said I'd never do. I ordered a Dimec chassis to play with. That is going to force me to run a cab forward body. Gasp! Oh the humanity!
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:59 PM   #14066
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@fredswain: ahahahhaha awesome. Did you decide which body yet? I really like my finisher body….

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkg82qpphlc
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:59 PM   #14067
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I think I will hate the new DEX210 V2 body….
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:03 PM   #14068
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has anyone tried associated pistons in the durango shocks? What about other brands? I know they are 12mm but I've heard they have some nominal sizing differences so perhaps a little more or less blow-by with different brands? Anyone spend the money on machined pistons? How do you like them?
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:30 PM   #14069
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I'm not sure which body I'll run. It's not going to come down to which I like the most but rather which I hate the least! I wonder if I can cut the sides off of a cab forward body and integrate them into the stock 210 body? I'll have to look into that. The V2 body is definitely out. I wouldn't wish that atrocity on anyone! There are certain views that I find the Finnisher tolerable and certain views that I find the Bulldog tolerable. I may have to get one and then modify the roofline a bit with some heat. I'll definitely add a big honking fin from the rear of the cab to the shock tower.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:46 PM   #14070
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Ah!!! I accidentally bought the non TYPE B Dimec20 chassis. Oh well. I'm just all kinds of failboat today.
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