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Old 03-10-2014, 09:20 AM   #13996
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Ok, thanks Fred. I'll download their manual and pull the part numbers to get them on order. I just downloaded the manual for TD and got the lengths for the toe/camber ball studs.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:26 AM   #13997
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Losi 22 cups and ball stud with Lunsford turnbuckles i havent popped one yet it did add a few grams being the ballstuds are 4.8mm and steel
Never liked the 22 cups. They develop so much slop over time. After a month of use on the 22, I would get more than 0.5 to 1 degree camber change. A lot of guys at our track think the same thing. Losi cups are junk. How can you get an accurate handling car with it.

Actually the Kyosho HD ballcups work mint on the 22. And no slop over 3 months of use. Try the HD kyosho on your losi ballends and you will see what I mean.

But so far I am happy with the durango Dimex cups
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:43 AM   #13998
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I personally don't have any issues with slop with Losi ball cups. They do something very well. They don't pop off! Lunsford turnbuckles don't break. That is called reliability. I like them for the same reason that I've always run RPM arms when they were ever available for the cars that I had. If you break, you can't finish. The Durango ball cups were junk. The worst offenders for slop are actually the Lunsford ball cups. They come with the turnbuckles but I throw them away. One thing I refuse to do with ball cups is to drill a hole in them for an allen wrench. That only promotes dirt buildup and accelerates wear. I won't run a ball cups that has this.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:56 AM   #13999
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I hear you about the reg HD cups. I had a few pop off.
Not sure I agree about having the slop on the losi cups.
Try the kyosho then. You won't be disappointed. Ran then for a year with no issues.

The part numbers are listed in the below link.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango/TD_KyoshoBallCups/

Having said that, the Dimex seem to be holding up pretty well as well on my v4.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:33 PM   #14000
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So I have the kit chassis and I don't have the TD330341 rf pin holders. I want to try different anti squat settings but it looks like the only parts available are the type b parts so that would require me changing everything over to type b right?

Or can I get away with using those (TD330578) on the original aluminum chassis?
I will eventually change over to type b I'm sure but I didn't want to go through that right now.

Also, the dimec x or dimex or whatever ball cups can be used on the original ball studs right? Their size did not increase in later revisions or anything?
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:24 PM   #14001
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So I have the kit chassis and I don't have the TD330341 rf pin holders. I want to try different anti squat settings but it looks like the only parts available are the type b parts so that would require me changing everything over to type b right?

Or can I get away with using those (TD330578) on the original aluminum chassis?
I will eventually change over to type b I'm sure but I didn't want to go through that right now.

Also, the dimec x or dimex or whatever ball cups can be used on the original ball studs right? Their size did not increase in later revisions or anything?
All kits come with a complete set of holders. I am assuming you got it used? You can use the original ones TD330578, unless you have a type B chassis.

Yes, dimec and dimex are the same size, so is the Kyosho Hard Ball cup set, in the link i posted earlier..
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:33 PM   #14002
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Yep, used.
Maybe I had it backwards... so the 578 part is not type b specific and I can use it on the OG short aluminum chassis? I didn't order because in the description it said type b.

The difference between dimec and dimex is plastic hardness or something? I actually want to stay with the Durango cups that are open on the top, I run indoor clay so dirt getting in there is not a big concern. It is very nice to be able to change RC washers without popping the cup and loosening it up every time.

Thanx for the help, first Durango so I'm not familiar with their terminology for dimex or dimec.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:00 PM   #14003
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Yep, used.
Maybe I had it backwards... so the 578 part is not type b specific and I can use it on the OG short aluminum chassis? I didn't order because in the description it said type b.

The difference between dimec and dimex is plastic hardness or something? I actually want to stay with the Durango cups that are open on the top, I run indoor clay so dirt getting in there is not a big concern. It is very nice to be able to change RC washers without popping the cup and loosening it up every time.

Thanx for the help, first Durango so I'm not familiar with their terminology for dimex or dimec.
TD330341 - is the original one - it will not work with type B
TD330578 - is the type B
Dimex is harder and it won't pop off. I think Lutz broke a turnbuckle vs having the link pop off at the worlds.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:01 PM   #14004
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Did anyone else notice these?
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310290
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:18 PM   #14005
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TD330341 - is the original one - it will not work with type B
TD330578 - is the type B
Dimex is harder and it won't pop off. I think Lutz broke a turnbuckle vs having the link pop off at the worlds.
I have the original chassis though so if 341 will not work with type B, I would think the type B 578 would not work with the original chassis (type A?).
My rf mount uses the annoying ball at the front end of the hinge pin if that she ads any light on the part I need to replace.
I would love to run the newer mount that does not use the ball if it will work on my chassis.

I have a feeling that I will be swapping this stuff over to the newer generation of parts but I want to do that once the V2 parts and mainly aluminum chassis is available so in the mean time I'm running it with the old stuff.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:54 PM   #14006
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Originally Posted by fq06 View Post
So I have the kit chassis and I don't have the TD330341 rf pin holders. I want to try different anti squat settings but it looks like the only parts available are the type b parts so that would require me changing everything over to type b right?

Or can I get away with using those (TD330578) on the original aluminum chassis?
I will eventually change over to type b I'm sure but I didn't want to go through that right now.

Also, the dimec x or dimex or whatever ball cups can be used on the original ball studs right? Their size did not increase in later revisions or anything?
If you've got the original v1 kit chassis, you can use the new type b rf hangers to adjust your anti-squat. The only substantial difference on the type b stuff is on the rr hanger and front bulkhead, but you can just pitch that stuff because you don't need it.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:04 PM   #14007
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OK, thanx for straightening me out
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:35 PM   #14008
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Yeah, it's already in both my DEX210 and 2WD short course. Let me tell you, MORE POW POW.. The thing accelerates so much faster, you either have to back the slipper a bit more, tooth 1 up gear or roll on the throttle a little bit more gentle. Its like going up 1T on your motor.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:42 PM   #14009
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I don't understand the Ballcup-HD issues I have run my 210 for over 6 months now and had ALOT of crashes I have not once popped a ballcup. Instead I have snapped a Rear Hub, Rear G/Box ear, Front C-hub and a steering arm. I wish the ball cups would pop at least a marshell could put them on and I could finish a race instead of a DNF.

So impressed I was with the Ballcup-HD's I changed my rpm ball cups on my 410 that were popping off with new Ballcup-HD's and have not had any pop again.

Now i have probably jinxed myself but the one thing I have never done is pop them off for maintanence etc, I also undo the ball stud never pop the ballcup. So all my ballstuds/cups have never been separated by myself or a crash.




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Yes I have had them on order for a while going to run them in my 410 V3
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:34 PM   #14010
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I don't understand the Ballcup-HD issues I have run my 210 for over 6 months now and had ALOT of crashes I have not once popped a ballcup. Instead I have snapped a Rear Hub, Rear G/Box ear, Front C-hub and a steering arm. I wish the ball cups would pop at least a marshell could put them on and I could finish a race instead of a DNF.

So impressed I was with the Ballcup-HD's I changed my rpm ball cups on my 410 that were popping off with new Ballcup-HD's and have not had any pop again.

Now i have probably jinxed myself but the one thing I have never done is pop them off for maintanence etc, I also undo the ball stud never pop the ballcup. So all my ballstuds/cups have never been separated by myself or a crash.
Once they HD ballcups pop off they will continue to pop off. I think the fact that you never poped them for maintenance is key to why they haven't come off yet.
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