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Old 10-31-2011, 10:16 AM   #1381
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-03-2012 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:50 AM   #1382
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
one is about .3 mm larger not a huge difference but with the larger one pressing on the c clip it might make a difference.

Stop screwing when you get tired.... sorry, check out the diff built and run in vids here on the foum, under the stickies I think I saw it.

I tighten mine till you can hold the 2 outdrives with tools and not turn the gear.

Then maybe a 1/4 more but that you can do when you are running it in.

There will always be a few adjustments you need to do as in running it in and how you like yours set to your track.
ok thanks, and the ball diff plates, are those one sided or can they go in either way (i think i noticed one sided was polished more than the other)?
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:55 AM   #1383
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Guys I too am confused as to how you're assembling the diff and trans with problems. The diff is easy to assemble if you follow the instructions. +1

The only way you could incorrectly assemble the thrust is to not have the race side facing the thrust balls. Even if the washers are different thickness's which I don't believe they are this would not change the overall size of the thrust assembly. The thrust retaining clip should slide right into place as long as the assembly is fully seated. +1

A standard trick when assembling the diff is to take a pair of pliers and compress the diff spring a few times. This will quicken the break in time and lessen the chance of having a diff that is initially too loose. I always do this as well

Your rear dog bone should be no where near hitting the adjustment screw. If this is the case you've put the diff together wrong. Again make sure you're putting the diff screw in the out drive with the female end. The spring and thrust nut go into the male ended out drive. yup

The only thing I've seen a few guys miss is the single thin shim between the two inner bearings. I was thinking this could be an issue for the peeps that didnt follow the instructions

The way I preset my diff is to tighten it fully in small amounts while working the diff a bit. This will prevent any chance of flat spotting the balls. Back it off 1/3 of a turn and use 2 allen wrenches to make sure I can't slip it by hand. Install. same here

To break it in make 100% sure your slipper is loose! Hold one tire on the ground and work the throttle at low speeds for say 5-10 seconds. Repeat on the other side. Tighten up the slipper and make sure your diff doesn't bark at all.

+1 Thats what I thought too.....but with all this talk I started second guessing my diff build and I havent even run my car yet!!
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:06 AM   #1384
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+1 Thats what I thought too.....but with all this talk I started second guessing my diff build and I havent even run my car yet!!
I was doing the same thing and I haven't even built my car yet.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:07 AM   #1385
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the outer diameter is different not the thickness
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:53 AM   #1386
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Anyone try the DE wheels yet?
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:03 PM   #1387
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For those of you using J Concepts ball cups, which ball studs do I use because associated studs are 440, not 3mm.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:04 PM   #1388
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For those of you using J Concepts ball cups, which ball studs do I use because associated studs are 440, not 3mm.
I'm running the original durango ballcups that come on their 4wheeler and SC, and have been having zero issues. Don't see a need to use the Jconcepts ballcups.... I know that doesn't answer your question, it was just an FYI.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:08 PM   #1389
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I'm running the original durango ballcups that come on their 4wheeler and SC, and have been having zero issues. Don't see a need to use the Jconcepts ballcups.... I know that doesn't answer your question, it was just an FYI.
So your using 330001 and using the bent ball cups from the 210 kit?
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:09 PM   #1390
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For those of you using J Concepts ball cups, which ball studs do I use because associated studs are 440, not 3mm.
any "standard" ballstud works. I've used TC5 ones in the past since the threads are metric to match the rest of the car.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:26 PM   #1391
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Anyone try the DE wheels yet?
They work fine. I have a set of fronts and rears in use. I hate the rivets/design of the wheel and if they could get somewhat close to the actual Durango colored wheel even better. But if you need wheels, they are in stock all over the place for the 210.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:31 PM   #1392
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I was planning to run this combo only if the stock ballcups give me any issues.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-End-Set-10

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2

I guess I would have to use the stock bent ball cups in rear inner position.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:31 PM   #1393
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I'm running the original durango ballcups that come on their 4wheeler and SC, and have been having zero issues. Don't see a need to use the Jconcepts ballcups.... I know that doesn't answer your question, it was just an FYI.
What number is that as there are a few different types
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:31 PM   #1394
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Has anyone tried the Lunsford TI ball studs I think they have them in 3mm now and I heard there ball cups are nice
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...gory_Code=BALL
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:36 PM   #1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
I was planning to run this combo only if the stock ballcups give me any issues.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-End-Set-10

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2

I guess I would have to use the stock bent ball cups in rear inner position.
That is what I installed except I used the 10mm Losi 22 ball studs.
For the rear inner link I used a long Kyosho end and bent it.

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