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Old 02-21-2014, 12:26 PM   #13846
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Don't know why I didn't see these before, 8 mm instead of the 6 mm. 8x3x0.5.
Thanx for steering me in the right direction.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Spacer-Gold-4
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:26 PM   #13847
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I run stock 17.5 class so I am trying to lighten my car as much as possible with the stock weight being so hefty. And I like running aluminum hubs and shock parts so I have to shed weight in other areas to make up for it.

It's a never ending battle lol. Right now I'm pricing out titanium screws for the rear end of the car to even out the weight a bit more. It's burning a hole in my pocket, but I love this little car.
Just something to think about. Tit turnbuckles and putting lightweight screws on your car is great. Especially on the top parts of the chassis. As it lowers the center of gravity.

Changing the screws of the underside of the chassis to lighter ones actually raises your center of gravity on your car.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:28 PM   #13848
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:33 PM   #13849
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Just something to think about. Tit turnbuckles and putting lightweight screws on your car is great. Especially on the top parts of the chassis. As it lowers the center of gravity.

Changing the screws of the underside of the chassis to lighter ones actually raises your center of gravity on your car.
Good point bud. I have been trying to pick out all the screws that I can from the top of the kit to see what lunsford has in titanium. Already have the turnbuckles though. I got the Punisher series instead of the "super duty" turnbuckles to make it even lighter.

I wish i could replace the shock mounting screws since they are at the high point of the car, but they have that smooth section and I'm not sure if a full-threaded 3mm titanium screw would work the same? Or if it'd eventually tear at the hole on the shock tower and cause breakage.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:04 PM   #13850
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A Main does not have the part # in stock.. but I definitely don't need the OEM part.

Can someone link me to a stupid little plastic washer that you put on the spoiler?

I bought a used roller and it is my first 10th buggy, I've never had to look for this part before. Looking up washers and spacers get me millions of irrelevant hits. Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:13 PM   #13851
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A Main does not have the part # in stock.. but I definitely don't need the OEM part.

Can someone link me to a stupid little plastic washer that you put on the spoiler?

I bought a used roller and it is my first 10th buggy, I've never had to look for this part before. Looking up washers and spacers get me millions of irrelevant hits. Thanks.
This is the aluminum version. I can't find the plastic one off-hand.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDDEP&P=7
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:45 PM   #13852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knowitall156 View Post
The mod class has all but disappeared at our track and there are 18-20 Blinky 17.5 buggies each week shooting for a spot in the 11 car A main. It is not uncommon for 1st through 10th to finish on the same lap after 8 minutes separated by a few tenths each buggy. It's nuts, so lightening up the buggy as much as possible makes a big difference.
I understand…for some reasons Stock class is always the more popular class at most of the tracks I've raced at.

Forgive me stock racers for I have sinned and Modified. …..What I have a hard time understanding is why, I'm all for racing and there is nothing wrong with stock. Don't get me wrong guys and gals! I prefer mod racing because when I want to go faster I just buy more motor. I don't have trouble clearing a jump because my motor doesn't have it. (sometimes it's my driving!) When I race stock I have to find some magic speed somewhere. Some sort of hack. Crazy high voltage batteries, looking for that extra special stock motor, super lightweight cars, carbon fiber, titanium, I see all kinds of things going on in stock class. Just for a couple of extra tenths. Isn't it more fun to have more horsepower?

no harm intended to stock racers. I race stock sometimes too.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:05 PM   #13853
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Good point bud. I have been trying to pick out all the screws that I can from the top of the kit to see what lunsford has in titanium. Already have the turnbuckles though. I got the Punisher series instead of the "super duty" turnbuckles to make it even lighter.

I wish i could replace the shock mounting screws since they are at the high point of the car, but they have that smooth section and I'm not sure if a full-threaded 3mm titanium screw would work the same? Or if it'd eventually tear at the hole on the shock tower and cause breakage.
LNS7500 @ A-main $25.49, you need to cut off the ball piece from the stock plastic part.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:31 PM   #13854
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Originally Posted by Mopar View Post
LNS7500 @ A-main $25.49, you need to cut off the ball piece from the stock plastic part.

Already got em but they don't work well with the exotek shock caps
:-( any tips on getting them to fit though and I'd appreciate it.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:47 PM   #13855
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I understand…for some reasons Stock class is always the more popular class at most of the tracks I've raced at.

Forgive me stock racers for I have sinned and Modified. …..What I have a hard time understanding is why, I'm all for racing and there is nothing wrong with stock. Don't get me wrong guys and gals! I prefer mod racing because when I want to go faster I just buy more motor. I don't have trouble clearing a jump because my motor doesn't have it. (sometimes it's my driving!) When I race stock I have to find some magic speed somewhere. Some sort of hack. Crazy high voltage batteries, looking for that extra special stock motor, super lightweight cars, carbon fiber, titanium, I see all kinds of things going on in stock class. Just for a couple of extra tenths. Isn't it more fun to have more horsepower?

no harm intended to stock racers. I race stock sometimes too.
I like it mostly because we are all pretty much on level ground. And it becomes more of a driver's game. Even with the guys who go all oput with timing and gear the motor to blow on the 7th minute after a 6-minute main, they can still be overtaken by good driving which I definitely dig.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:55 PM   #13856
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I got some slim cut staggers for racing on carpet do i need inserts or not, also if i cut down the inside of the wheel will it weaken it?
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:08 PM   #13857
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I got some slim cut staggers for racing on carpet do i need inserts or not, also if i cut down the inside of the wheel will it weaken it?
You can Dremel the wheel down with no issues. This is the way I have run mine for over a year. I run low profile cur staggers and I do not use inserts, I usually don't even glue them as they fit so tight on the wheel.
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:49 PM   #13858
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Ok thanks walkman will the staggers be enough to help with my traction rolling issues? Do you run soft springs and oils or harder, the mod guys at my track run very soft setups totally opposite of the setups ive been reading on petit
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:40 PM   #13859
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I understand…for some reasons Stock class is always the more popular class at most of the tracks I've raced at.

Forgive me stock racers for I have sinned and Modified. …..What I have a hard time understanding is why, I'm all for racing and there is nothing wrong with stock. Don't get me wrong guys and gals! I prefer mod racing because when I want to go faster I just buy more motor. I don't have trouble clearing a jump because my motor doesn't have it. (sometimes it's my driving!) When I race stock I have to find some magic speed somewhere. Some sort of hack. Crazy high voltage batteries, looking for that extra special stock motor, super lightweight cars, carbon fiber, titanium, I see all kinds of things going on in stock class. Just for a couple of extra tenths. Isn't it more fun to have more horsepower?

no harm intended to stock racers. I race stock sometimes too.
Well, the class is designed for intermediate drivers to finish a race without crashing two times a lap, and moreover, to learn how to take the corner on the limit and have a close race. Let's be honest, 2wd buggy isn't an easy class to drive.
I used to like this class a lot when I was at sportsman class, car kept cheap, it's disadvantage to put heavy bling on, and low power means very little wear on the car, even a ball diff lasts months. Oh, and my local track was a small indoor one, 17.5 is almost as quick as mod, quicker if in sportsman drivers hands.

Then into expert class it's also another kind of fun, decent front driving skill with good consistency isn't good enough anymore, need to get into setups, finding the extra bit of grip here and there, drive like mad and sacrifice a bit consistency. It's great, until I found something that, even at about minimum weight, I seems to be outpowered by many. Then crank max timing and gears up etc, even seen peoples motor fried during a race. Seen people sending hundreds buying motors and batteries and lighter drive train stuff, the class is more expensive than mod now.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:11 PM   #13860
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Ok thanks walkman will the staggers be enough to help with my traction rolling issues? Do you run soft springs and oils or harder, the mod guys at my track run very soft setups totally opposite of the setups ive been reading on petit
I see you used my old setup from Petitrc. The link is to my current setup. I have not experienced traction roll with it at all. With the Staggers on you get just a little slide before it hooks at the end of the straight then it hooks up and your gone.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2014_setup.pdf
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