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Old 02-20-2014, 11:53 AM   #13801
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I got the new type B gearbox a couple of days ago. I haven't installed it yet but I am happy with the new outer link location. After seeing the new V2 pics, I'll probably end up upgrading most of the car over after all with the exception of the chassis. I still won't use a cab forward body!
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:11 PM   #13802
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I honestly don't see how manufacturers charge as much for chassis as they do. Why is a carbon fiber chassis over $100? That's pure profit! I already know what a chassis blank will cost me and how many chassis I can get out of them. The cost of the actual tooling is what I'm waiting for. I see no reason why these couldn't be kept under or near the $60 mark. That's how much we paid for them in the late 80's when the technology was far more expensive. It depends how intricate I end up making them and how many pieces there are but $100+ is just insane for a chassis that still requires you to bolt on stock sides! Keep in mind that my design will be setup to accept either saddle packs or shorties. It'll be optimized for mid motor. I don't have the tooling yet. It's still a work in progress but is a goal.
Don't fool yourself. There are different grades of CF/Resin/etc also the cost of chassis specific tooling as well.

Make a couple of your "home made" chassis and see how much time it takes to get a CF chassis that's up to the quality of other chassis on the market (8 racing, centro, etc.) you will have hours into it.

Also some companies sub out thier work to have other companies make thier product or in our case we import all of our CF parts from Germany. You pay a high price due to the quality, import tax to get that product into the US, etc.

"Back in the day" you could buy a CF chassis for your RC10 for around 60 bucks in 1988.

I still hate cab forward bodies
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #13803
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I got the new type B gearbox a couple of days ago. I haven't installed it yet but I am happy with the new outer link location. After seeing the new V2 pics, I'll probably end up upgrading most of the car over after all with the exception of the chassis. I still won't use a cab forward body!
Bodies are a personal preference, but cab forward bodies give you more steering. Then again, I have seen guys put a piece of clear lexan on the front hood of their original DEX bodies to simulate the aerodynamics of a cab forward.

But you got to admit, the new cab forward on the v2 and v4 is pretty sweet looking and much better than some of the other aftermarket cab forward bodies in the market.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:40 PM   #13804
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which do most of you guys prefer? bladder or emulsion shocks?
where is a good starting point for shock piston for outdoor bluegroove.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:54 PM   #13805
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Don't fool yourself. There are different grades of CF/Resin/etc also the cost of chassis specific tooling as well.

Make a couple of your "home made" chassis and see how much time it takes to get a CF chassis that's up to the quality of other chassis on the market (8 racing, centro, etc.) you will have hours into it.

Also some companies sub out thier work to have other companies make thier product or in our case we import all of our CF parts from Germany. You pay a high price due to the quality, import tax to get that product into the US, etc.

"Back in the day" you could buy a CF chassis for your RC10 for around 60 bucks in 1988.

I still hate cab forward bodies
The manufacturer is Composite Craft. They have an awful lot of experience with carbon fiber and even the rc aspect of it. I am paying for their tooling which means no one else can have parts made from it. I already have my unit pricing per sheet and know how many parts I can get out of each sheet. Since I own my own 3 axis cnc router and pin router at home, cutting them out is just some of my time. I already make my own chassis. I'm definitely not fooling myself. I know good and well how much it costs and there is no reason why any of the Durango chassis out there need to cost as much as they do. I can understand Exotek at the $100 mark since they also have a machined aluminum nose but anything that is a chassis only costing more than that is pure ridiculous. I'm not some random kid in the garage with a sheet of carbon fiber and a jig saw and a dremel. Keep in mind I'm also not starting a company. My day job is too awesome.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:59 PM   #13806
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which do most of you guys prefer? bladder or emulsion shocks?
where is a good starting point for shock piston for outdoor bluegroove.
Bladders have tend to have a stronger rebound. Rebound is adjustable. They stay consistent longer, especially during a long A-Main. But its harder to make the rebound equal on all the shocks. Normally bladders help on larger jumps.

Emulsions have less rebound. They are easy bleed, and make equal and consistently time after time with the bleed screw. Don't have to worry about blown bladder seals. Its better on smaller ruts and bumpy tracks as the reduced rebound doesn't make the car pogo over bumps.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:18 PM   #13807
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I completely disagree. Bladders all the way. I will never go back to emulsion ever again. They are inconsistent and far harder to get even. Bladders are almost impossible to mess up and are always consistent. There is absolutely no truth to bladders not handling any conditions as well as emulsion. The biggest problem is that people don't understand what a bladder is for. It is used to displace the amount of space that the shock shaft takes up as the shock compresses. The problem is that we only use a standard bladder in both front and rear shocks. Each end has a different travel length and displaces a different amount however the bladders aren't different front to rear to account for this. As a result one end may be a little spongy. The fact that everyone runs the wrong oil/piston combos doesn't help things either. You actually need to use foam inserts in the front bladders to compensate for the displacement. Adding them all around is a good tuning method but the front must always displace less area than the rear.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:30 PM   #13808
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I know the bladders are more consistent. I did say that. Until the bladders blow. I blew a bunch on my 408. Had most of the oil leak out during a final with the tiny air hole. And yes foams help a lot. I still run bladders on my 8th scale majority of the time. Less so on my 10th scale cars.

As for bleeding, I still think its harder to balance equal rebound on bladder shocks (well at least for a beginner). Emulsion fill to the brim, push the shaft all the way in, put in the screw. Done. Can't really screw that up.

Oh btw: Composite Craft is a great company.. Fred PM u about the chassis.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:45 PM   #13809
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I've only seen people blow them by running open bladders with the shock cap bleed screws removed. I never run them this way. I've never had one fail other than just plain getting old. I have used mismatched shock bodies and shafts before and had the piston go through a bladder before at full compression but that was my fault!
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:00 PM   #13810
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I've always thought bladders were easier to build consistently than emulsion. I haven't tried them yet on my 210, would be neat to give them a shot. I always run them with 0 rebound. Oddly enough I run them with the bleed screw removed. I've always been under the impression you need to let the volume of air inside the shock cap fluctuate with the diaphragm's movement. I always thought people blew them by running excessive rebound on them.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:02 PM   #13811
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Air is compressible. Fluid isn't.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:08 PM   #13812
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I've always thought bladders were easier to build consistently than emulsion. I haven't tried them yet on my 210, would be neat to give them a shot. I always run them with 0 rebound. Oddly enough I run them with the bleed screw removed. I've always been under the impression you need to let the volume of air inside the shock cap fluctuate with the diaphragm's movement. I always thought people blew them by running excessive rebound on them.
Vented bladder has less sproingyness than non vented. Kind of in between bladder and emulsion. There's less build up of pressure to push the bladder back when vented.
Bladders will go when they go vented or not from my experience.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:18 PM   #13813
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I know the bladders are more consistent. I did say that. Until the bladders blow. I blew a bunch on my 408. Had most of the oil leak out during a final with the tiny air hole. And yes foams help a lot. I still run bladders on my 8th scale majority of the time. Less so on my 10th scale cars.

As for bleeding, I still think its harder to balance equal rebound on bladder shocks (well at least for a beginner). Emulsion fill to the brim, push the shaft all the way in, put in the screw. Done. Can't really screw that up.

Oh btw: Composite Craft is a great company.. Fred PM u about the chassis.
yea, i guess that is why losi dumped theirs! and ae never used them
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:53 PM   #13814
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Restock status for most type b parts just got pushed back to April on Tower... Awesome!

Catch the sarcasm please.
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:01 PM   #13815
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Sure it will compress, but it will also start pushing back against the diaphragm if it's got nowhere to go. I don't know for sure, but my gut feeling tells me I don't want that. Kind of like asking your dampening to work like a spring in my mind.
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