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Old 02-19-2014, 01:00 PM   #13786
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The shocks are the one thing I am not looking to save weight with lol. I love the fat shocks and will not give them up for any weight savings. though I may go back to using the standard plastic stand-offs in place of the steel Durango bits. As well as titanium shafts all around.

The Dimec chassis came with my kit so I'm good there. I prefer the plastic tubs over the aluminum chassis anyway.
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:07 PM   #13787
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I ran 35/69 at motorama with a revtech killshot with the timing at 65*, would of been nice if I had a 36 to try. The other crazy thing many don't think of is take all the seals off the bearings that aren't needed, then clean out the bearings and oil them. It will make the drivetrain even free'er and lower temps in stock racing. My motor never went over 140*f all weekend and had lots of power
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:42 PM   #13788
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I ran 35/69 at motorama with a revtech killshot with the timing at 65*, would of been nice if I had a 36 to try. The other crazy thing many don't think of is take all the seals off the bearings that aren't needed, then clean out the bearings and oil them. It will make the drivetrain even free'er and lower temps in stock racing. My motor never went over 140*f all weekend and had lots of power
That is a great thing to bring up. Definitely take the time to de-grease your bearings. The stock stuff is thick. Or go broke and buy a ceramic bearing kit :-) I want one so bad, but they are OH SO PRICEY
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:00 PM   #13789
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I am working on having the tooling made to have carbon fiber chassis blanks made with a built in 25 degree nose kick. If I can get this project to fruition, would there be any interest in custom 210 chassis? Keep in mind I could make any chassis but since I have a 210 it would be simple to develop them. I already own a pin router to cut them out.
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:49 PM   #13790
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I am working on having the tooling made to have carbon fiber chassis blanks made with a built in 25 degree nose kick. If I can get this project to fruition, would there be any interest in custom 210 chassis? Keep in mind I could make any chassis but since I have a 210 it would be simple to develop them. I already own a pin router to cut them out.
The problem is all the carbon fiber chassis break at the kick up. This is why Exotek makes a aluminum nose for the carbon fiber chassis. Now I had the 8 Racing +8 carbon chassis and I absolutely loved it up until the nose snapped off. Plus with that chassis and carbon shock towers and all the Lunsford and Tresrey goodies I got it down 1522 grams. I was under Roar minimum weight without the body with Schumacher min pins on rear and low pro cut staggers on the front.
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:56 PM   #13791
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A bolt on nose would actually place far more stress at the attachment location than a solid chassis would. Besides, if they are breaking it isn't the fault of the material on it's own but rather the overall design. I'm not too worried about it. My chassis won't have bolt on sides either. Those have got to go. Mine will be more like the old solid graphite chassis that we ran long ago. Add a top plate as opposed to stiffeners low down where they don't have as much leverage and the nose has all the strength it needs.
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:07 PM   #13792
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I like the idea of a carbon chassis that doesn't need a bolt on front end for the kickup.
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:30 PM   #13793
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Welp my plastic chassis has been doing very well for me as of late. And the cost of CF chassis doesn't do much to make me want one. But if your chassis is a much cheaper alternative to the other offerings, I could see myself trying it out.
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:00 PM   #13794
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I honestly don't see how manufacturers charge as much for chassis as they do. Why is a carbon fiber chassis over $100? That's pure profit! I already know what a chassis blank will cost me and how many chassis I can get out of them. The cost of the actual tooling is what I'm waiting for. I see no reason why these couldn't be kept under or near the $60 mark. That's how much we paid for them in the late 80's when the technology was far more expensive. It depends how intricate I end up making them and how many pieces there are but $100+ is just insane for a chassis that still requires you to bolt on stock sides! Keep in mind that my design will be setup to accept either saddle packs or shorties. It'll be optimized for mid motor. I don't have the tooling yet. It's still a work in progress but is a goal.
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:03 PM   #13795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I honestly don't see how manufacturers charge as much for chassis as they do. Why is a carbon fiber chassis over $100? That's pure profit! I already know what a chassis blank will cost me and how many chassis I can get out of them. The cost of the actual tooling is what I'm waiting for. I see no reason why these couldn't be kept under or near the $60 mark. That's how much we paid for them in the late 80's when the technology was far more expensive. It depends how intricate I end up making them and how many pieces there are but $100+ is just insane for a chassis that still requires you to bolt on stock sides! Keep in mind that my design will be setup to accept either saddle packs or shorties. It'll be optimized for mid motor. I don't have the tooling yet. It's still a work in progress but is a goal.
+1 i would be interested in this
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:59 PM   #13796
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hey guys,
i just acquired a DEX210 from a local TD driver. the buggy has quit a few Tresrey option parts, and i got a sweet deal on it.
i have been reading up and i found the 'Type B' rear suspension mount set, what makes it different from the original design??. is it LRC v. HRC??
my kit has the tresrey red aluminum Rear-front mount ( 2* kickup and 3* toe-in; is that a good setting?), and an aluminum rear-rear mount as well, not sure who makes it.
is there anything you guys think the buggy absolutely needs? it has the rear camber link mod on the transmission case, which it sounds like is a must.
for tire inserts, do you guys recommend closed cell front and/or rear, or regular foam.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:20 PM   #13797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I honestly don't see how manufacturers charge as much for chassis as they do. Why is a carbon fiber chassis over $100? That's pure profit! I already know what a chassis blank will cost me and how many chassis I can get out of them. The cost of the actual tooling is what I'm waiting for. I see no reason why these couldn't be kept under or near the $60 mark. That's how much we paid for them in the late 80's when the technology was far more expensive. It depends how intricate I end up making them and how many pieces there are but $100+ is just insane for a chassis that still requires you to bolt on stock sides! Keep in mind that my design will be setup to accept either saddle packs or shorties. It'll be optimized for mid motor. I don't have the tooling yet. It's still a work in progress but is a goal.
+1 for mid motor.Go for it man, i really like seeing others come up with their own designs.
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:54 PM   #13798
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does anyone know weather the v2 body will fit on the v1?
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:13 AM   #13799
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does anyone know weather the v2 body will fit on the v1?
The v2 is +8 The V1 isn't. You will need a chassis that is longer
In addition the side pods flair in the front similar to the +8 plastic chassis.
It will fit the +8 dimec or dimec 20 chassis.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:28 AM   #13800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
hey guys,
i just acquired a DEX210 from a local TD driver. the buggy has quit a few Tresrey option parts, and i got a sweet deal on it.
i have been reading up and i found the 'Type B' rear suspension mount set, what makes it different from the original design??. is it LRC v. HRC??
my kit has the tresrey red aluminum Rear-front mount ( 2* kickup and 3* toe-in; is that a good setting?), and an aluminum rear-rear mount as well, not sure who makes it.
is there anything you guys think the buggy absolutely needs? it has the rear camber link mod on the transmission case, which it sounds like is a must.
for tire inserts, do you guys recommend closed cell front and/or rear, or regular foam.
Durango has both LRC and standard geometry type B hangers in the aluminum variety. So it's your call on which to use if you are talking about the aluminum set. The plastic type b set keeps the original geometry but comes with different hangers to adjust toe-in and kick-up. The only difference from the original design is that they are made to work on the type B chassis. Same with all of the type B parts. But some like the gear box and chassis braces can be used on stock kits for easier maintenance.

I personally got myself a TBR front bumper to help with the front end. I only broke the front end once and that probably would have still busted the car even with the bumper on but it looks good and adds some extra weight up front.

I recommend closed-cells. Seems like an easy decision since I've been using the same AKA foams for a while and they seem to get better after some use. Just buy a few sets and keep them for all of your tires.
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