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Old 10-30-2011, 11:18 PM   #1366
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Originally Posted by x7tristan View Post
The manual is wrong, I followed the manual and my diff unscrewed itself when you held one wheel. All other classic RM3 have the NUT on the spur side
You might have the trust washers installed incorrectly.
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Old 10-31-2011, 03:25 AM   #1367
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O.k I have the adjustment side on the spur side (RM3)and the dogbone hits the plastic locknut on the left side now when i compress the suspension(plunge). It binds almost like it isn't in far enough. Diff is built right, nice and smooth and the diff gear does not spin when I hold the outdrives. Anyone else find this? Please let me know your thoughts,Thanks......
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Old 10-31-2011, 03:55 AM   #1368
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O.k I have the adjustment side on the spur side (RM3)and the dogbone hits the plastic locknut on the left side now when i compress the suspension(plunge). It binds almost like it isn't in far enough. Diff is built right, nice and smooth and the diff gear does not spin when I hold the outdrives. Anyone else find this? Please let me know your thoughts,Thanks......
Have you got a photo of the setup? There shouldn't be enough plunge to hit the nut if the diff is correctly tightened.
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Old 10-31-2011, 04:30 AM   #1369
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I spent the day yesterday cobbling together a RB5 to run for the next little bit until the next shipment of dex 210's hit the states
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:19 AM   #1370
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Has anyone tried the other springs available or are the kit springs on the money?
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:32 AM   #1371
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Losi 22 spring fit fine and are not far off the dex compression rates
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:03 AM   #1372
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I used the kit springs with Randy's set up from page 81 on this thread and they were awesome. The only part of the set up I didn't have at the time was the 4 hole pistons. When I put them on, the car pushed kinda bad. First I tried some front camber adjustments and ride height lowering to get my steering back. Helped a little. Then I went down one spring rate. (dark green) Helped a little more, but still not quite right so I think I'm gonna put the original pistons back on because I feel like I'm getting too far off of the set up and just "band aiding" the piston change.

Short version...Yes, the kit springs are good!
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:07 AM   #1373
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Originally Posted by Bri from Chi View Post
I used the kit springs with Randy's set up from page 81 on this thread and they were awesome. The only part of the set up I didn't have at the time was the 4 hole pistons. When I put them on, the car pushed kinda bad. First I tried some front camber adjustments and ride height lowering to get my steering back. Helped a little. Then I went down one spring rate. (dark green) Helped a little more, but still not quite right so I think I'm gonna put the original pistons back on because I feel like I'm getting too far off of the set up and just "band aiding" the piston change.

Short version...Yes, the kit springs are good!
I was just assesing if I needed to purchase additional springs immediately. I like to have one stiffer and one softer spring than stock.
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:17 AM   #1374
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
I was just assesing if I needed to purchase additional springs immediately. I like to have one stiffer and one softer spring than stock.
kit springs are usable, I went one rate softer in front and slightly stiffer in the rear but that's just me.
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:03 AM   #1375
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Originally Posted by old-man View Post
You might have the trust washers installed incorrectly.

whats the proper order of the thrust assembly, given that the two raced washers are different sizes?
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:26 AM   #1376
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outdrive *smaller washer *thrust balls *larger washer
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:45 AM   #1377
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outdrive *smaller washer *thrust balls *larger washer

Are the two thrust washers actually a different diameter? And how much of a difference? I put all mine together with no issues not knowing they are/were? The instructions dont specify different sizes and in the 1:1 pic they are the same as well. The only way I can see you "putting them in wrong" is if it affected the fit in the outdrive, in which case the snap ring shouldnt fit. Otherwise, having one washer or the other in place of each other shouldnt change how the thrust works.

The diff nut should be on the "left" or "drivers side" of the car in RM configuration with the adjusting screw on the "right" side. My axle does not hit the diff nut either.....

The 210's diff is NOT assembled like a "traditional" ball diff, so if someone tries doing it without (or not really paying attention) to the instructions then I imagine it wont work like it should. One example is the washer that gets sandwiched between the two small bearings in the center of the diff.
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:49 AM   #1378
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outdrive *smaller washer *thrust balls *larger washer
ok thanks. And how tight should the screw/nut be? How do I know when to stop trying to tighten the assembly?
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:56 AM   #1379
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ok thanks. And how tight should the screw/nut be? How do I know when to stop trying to tighten the assembly?
one is about .3 mm larger not a huge difference but with the larger one pressing on the c clip it might make a difference.

Stop screwing when you get tired.... sorry, check out the diff built and run in vids here on the foum, under the stickies I think I saw it.

I tighten mine till you can hold the 2 outdrives with tools and not turn the gear.

Then maybe a 1/4 more but that you can do when you are running it in.

There will always be a few adjustments you need to do as in running it in and how you like yours set to your track.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:14 AM   #1380
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Guys I too am confused as to how you're assembling the diff and trans with problems. The diff is easy to assemble if you follow the instructions.

The only way you could incorrectly assemble the thrust is to not have the race side facing the thrust balls. Even if the washers are different thickness's which I don't believe they are this would not change the overall size of the thrust assembly. The thrust retaining clip should slide right into place as long as the assembly is fully seated.

A standard trick when assembling the diff is to take a pair of pliers and compress the diff spring a few times. This will quicken the break in time and lessen the chance of having a diff that is initially too loose.

Your rear dog bone should be no where near hitting the adjustment screw. If this is the case you've put the diff together wrong. Again make sure you're putting the diff screw in the out drive with the female end. The spring and thrust nut go into the male ended out drive.

The only thing I've seen a few guys miss is the single thin shim between the two inner bearings.

The way I preset my diff is to tighten it fully in small amounts while working the diff a bit. This will prevent any chance of flat spotting the balls. Back it off 1/3 of a turn and use 2 allen wrenches to make sure I can't slip it by hand. Install.

To break it in make 100% sure your slipper is loose! Hold one tire on the ground and work the throttle at low speeds for say 5-10 seconds. Repeat on the other side. Tighten up the slipper and make sure your diff doesn't bark at all.
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