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Old 02-07-2014, 08:41 AM   #13651
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Obviously they went on the improve the original. My only issue is why since last Oct. did they basically abandon the V1? You couldn't find a kit if you had to but there was about a million RTR's available. I like their cars just think they could have done a better job at keep people's interest. Look at the DEXTC...that had a lot of hype and it took forever to get it out. In the mean time, I've purchased a 6.2 and B5 but my kids will run the Durango's as it's really good stuff.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:00 AM   #13652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Thanks. I will look into those. Its been the most frustrating thing about this car for me. No real universal setups like Associated and Losi have.

Craig Collinson - Generic Setup this basic setup works pretty well and like he says a few minor adjustments from track to track
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:05 AM   #13653
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Default DEX210 gearbox fixes

So I'm curious to see what you guys have done to keep the camber link mounts from snapping off the gearbox and also figured some of you would like to see what I did.

I made this little graphite part, but it'll only fit correctly for a mid motor setup:

[URL=http://s101.photobucket.com/user/StevenTP/media/Team-Durangos/WP_20140207_01_13_41_Pro.jpg.html][/URL

They also have graphite and aluminum braces on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sumo-Racing-Durango-DEX210-DEST210-DESC210-Graphite-Rear-Tranny-Ear-Brace-/261392668636?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&ha sh=item3cdc3797dc

So has anyone here done anything else to help solve the problem?
Please share if so, I'm curious
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:32 AM   #13654
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http://www.tresrey-usa.com/tresrey-a...est210desc210/

We've been running them for @3 years with no issues. Works RM or MM as well.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:33 AM   #13655
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You've got a couple of options. The aftermarket ones are exactly how you've done it. The new gearbox is stronger in this area and has another camber link location. Here are a couple of the fixes for those that broke them.

http://www.rcshox.com/durango-gearbox-fix/

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...t-tytd105.html
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:42 AM   #13656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb View Post
Obviously they went on the improve the original. My only issue is why since last Oct. did they basically abandon the V1? You couldn't find a kit if you had to but there was about a million RTR's available. I like their cars just think they could have done a better job at keep people's interest. Look at the DEXTC...that had a lot of hype and it took forever to get it out. In the mean time, I've purchased a 6.2 and B5 but my kids will run the Durango's as it's really good stuff.
They didn't abandon the V1. Just the setups were all for a plus +8 chassis. Meanwhile the plastic chassis was available for the Dex210 pro as well as tons of aftermarket companies making a +8, +10 and +11 chassis.

RTR which is basically the same kit minus the aluminum chassis, rear hanger and swapped the ball for a gear diff. And you don't really need a stiff chassis on low/med grip dirt. The V2 is a refinement of the V1.

If you look at AE B4, the different versions were just refinements of the original. Mind you the B5 was a complete redesign, with many adjustments features in the caster and rear toe blocks and spindles, similar to the 210. The 22 2.0 again was a refinement of the original.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:47 AM   #13657
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I would argue that you always want a stiff chassis and that a softer one is a bandaid for a setup problem elsewhere.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:07 AM   #13658
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http://www.sumo-racing.com/DurangoDEX210.html
Here is another option. I like the Tresrey but they never have them in stock. I need one for my DEST210 and I am looking at the Sumo because of it.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:15 AM   #13659
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I would argue that you always want a stiff chassis and that a softer one is a bandaid for a setup problem elsewhere.
Some people like it Stiff, but not everyone can handle it stiff.

I am with you that a stiff chassis will show you any setup issues on your chassis so that your can tweak and get your suspension dialed. A flexible chassis can mask inefficiencies in suspension. On an indoor track where the conditions remain consistent, stiff is good.

If you are outdoors, where the temperatures can change during the day, sometimes its just more forgiving with a plastic chassis. Because the chassis absorbs some of the flex and shock, its suspension range is slightly larger, thus you don't need to chase setup as much. Having a chassis that doesn't give them any leeway in terms of suspension setup being off isn't the best situation for them. Well not for a beginner anyways. I personally run the Dimec20 indoors and on med/highbite, and Dimec outdoors on blown out tracks and "cratered to the moon" type tracks.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:47 PM   #13660
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Ya I would agree but TLR and AE didn't stop making the 22 and B4.2 kits prior to the release of the 2.0 and B5. I'm just saying they've got a great product but could do a better job in keeping people on the wagon.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:00 PM   #13661
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I ditched my DEX210 and got me a Schumacher KF.
Solved the problem as well

Regards,
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:14 PM   #13662
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They should have done what Losi did way back in the day with the JRX2 and it's constant upgrades. The original car came out and many of us ran it. I still run mine! As the team changed over from the 5-link suspension to the H-arms, Losi offered them as option parts and they were at hobby shops. As the team drivers started using longer chassis and front shocks and different shock towers, Losi offered them to the public too and even packaged all of it together in the form of the Proformance kit which upgraded the original JRX2 to the new specs. They also released an updated car based on this setup and called it the JRX-Pro. They didn't stop making one to offer the other. They just added it. As they developed more improvements, they were again on the shelves at hobby shops to be purchased by people wanting to try them. They again released another car based on further mods called the JRX-Pro SE. They also had the spinoff's from the series such as the Junior 2 and the JRX-T and it's variants. This was all very smart as they always had product available. There was always something new to play with. This was over 4 years. No one complained that there wasn't a new car since we essentially always had it. It was always being improved and we could decide what parts we wanted to use.

In 1991 they really started changing things. They did the 3 gear transmission and sold it as an option called the Double-X. Team drivers were running radically different front ends to the standard JRX cars and with the new gearbox and other options, they just released a whole new car called the XX. It too went through several iterations with all of the option parts available to the public. When the car got sufficiently different again, they released the XXX which too went through variants. This was how it was done for about 15 years. Durango should follow that lead. It worked.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:33 PM   #13663
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I've been drilling an additional hole in the gearbox case similar to what you see in the new version for the past year and a half. Even prior to that I never broke one, but wanted the added assurance that I would not have a breakage.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:34 PM   #13664
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Hi guys, i just got my RTR and plan to bring it to the local track tomorrow(loose dirt). I've done the slipper tuning and throttle setup per the RTR Tech Tips vids on the TD website but still not sure about the esc tuning, what should i set the brake strength and drag brake strength for a loose dirt track? Also just need some advice on the do's and dont's and basic set up as this is my first R/C car.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #13665
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Default +8mm chassis

I've just restarted driving this car again....have never gone to a different chassis, as I'm quite happy with it.

What can I expect going to the dimec or any other longer wheelbase chassis?

the tracks I drive have sharp corners, and quite bumpy.
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