R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree33Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-28-2014, 05:13 PM   #13501
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I made my own chassis so scratch that and all associated parts off the list. I'm probably not touching the shocks so scratch that. I despise cab forward bodies so scratch that. I may play with the arms but not convinced I need to. The only thing I see that I definitely want is the gear case.
__________________
Follow my rc products on Facebook at Raborn Racing Originals and the line of 3D printed parts at
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/rebellionrc
fredswain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2014, 05:38 PM   #13502
ekt
Tech Master
 
ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Burnie, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Where are you getting the specs?
Parts are listed on Tower http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2+++&search=Go
__________________
Leo Lorenzen
Xray Australia - Proline Australia - GForce Australia - Fantom Australia - Hearns Hobbies
ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2014, 05:41 PM   #13503
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,377
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ekt View Post
Ok, whizzed through that page too fast, must need pictures I guess..lol
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2014, 05:51 PM   #13504
Tech Fanatic
 
Konich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 972
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Arms for me and that's it. Hello V2!
__________________
Tresrey Spec DEX410 - Yaiba Spec B5M
Konich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2014, 06:13 PM   #13505
Tech Adept
 
Speedo711's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 161
Default

i will probably buy the revised rear shock tower and a-arms... i have had no issues with my gearbox
__________________
Team Durango DEX210-Novak-Promatch Racing-Mid Motor
Team Durango DEST210-Trackstar-Novak-Promatch
E Olsen
Speedo711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 02:25 PM   #13506
ekt
Tech Master
 
ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Burnie, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Pics of the v2 from the 2014 Toyfair can be found here http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html
__________________
Leo Lorenzen
Xray Australia - Proline Australia - GForce Australia - Fantom Australia - Hearns Hobbies
ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 02:53 PM   #13507
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1
Default

Team durango dex210 my tires are wearing on the inside not on thr outside could this be from toed out or need more negative camber. Im racing on carpet with mid motor which rear suspension blocks should I try
poston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 03:14 PM   #13508
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,377
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ekt View Post
Pics of the v2 from the 2014 Toyfair can be found here http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html
I want to see underneef it..
Quote:
Originally Posted by poston View Post
Team durango dex210 my tires are wearing on the inside not on thr outside could this be from toed out or need more negative camber. Im racing on carpet with mid motor which rear suspension blocks should I try
Hard to say w/o seeing the car, but more than likely too much camber. As far as suspension blocks go,there is no "universal best", its more of a try and feel thing for you at your track. Without knowing what the car is doing right or wrong, or where more is needed it tough for us to tell you what to try. Let us know what you want out of your car, and maybe even what blocks you are using etc and we should be able to dial it in a little better..
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 04:29 PM   #13509
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Durango Hex Mod
I didn't like using the threadlock method. Aftermarket clamps are great, but I thought maybe a DYI mod would do the trick.

Thought I might share it with you guys. You just need part #704046








Test to make sure the screw sits flush in the hex or the wheel can't fit on.
You need to shorten the pin slightly so that the screws can clamp onto the hex and not protrude out. If you can't put the wheel on, either the pin is too long or the holes for the counter sink is not deep enough.




Trim any flashing so that the pin can slide in easily.



__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com

Last edited by Dino_D; 01-29-2014 at 04:44 PM.
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 04:31 PM   #13510
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,377
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Durango Hex Mod

very cool..I like the transparent links also.
Sorry Dino, was just giving you a hard time..nice work, i was thinking of doing a similar mod to my alumi hexes but lost interest (lazy) way through the first one, and used a drop of CA instead..lol

Last edited by flame56mx; 01-30-2014 at 04:20 AM.
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 04:45 PM   #13511
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
very cool..I like the transparent links also..
Sorry I was trying to figure out why the links didn't post. Its up now.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 11:02 PM   #13512
Tech Addict
 
Mopar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santee, Ca
Posts: 666
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Durango Hex Mod
I didn't like using the threadlock method. Aftermarket clamps are great, but I thought maybe a DYI mod would do the trick.

Thought I might share it with you guys. You just need part #704046








Test to make sure the screw sits flush in the hex or the wheel can't fit on.
You need to shorten the pin slightly so that the screws can clamp onto the hex and not protrude out. If you can't put the wheel on, either the pin is too long or the holes for the counter sink is not deep enough.




Trim any flashing so that the pin can slide in easily.



A simpler easier fix is use a spot of thread lock on the pin. That's what I did when I got tired of the pin falling out b4 I got clamping hubs. Now I run 12mm hexes so I can use the lighter AKA universal wheel. B4 that I switched the front to truck hubs using cut TC axles and 12mm hexes to use the universal fronts. Mostly cause I hated taking bearings out to clean tires.
Mopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 02:05 AM   #13513
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Europe
Posts: 86
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar View Post
A simpler easier fix is use a spot of thread lock on the pin. That's what I did when I got tired of the pin falling out b4 I got clamping hubs. Now I run 12mm hexes so I can use the lighter AKA universal wheel. B4 that I switched the front to truck hubs using cut TC axles and 12mm hexes to use the universal fronts. Mostly cause I hated taking bearings out to clean tires.
I use a thick teflon grease on the pin. Works for me.
goszu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 06:07 AM   #13514
Tech Regular
 
Khador12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 271
Default

Pictures of the new V2.
http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html
__________________
Billy Stewart
Xray T4 17
Khador12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 07:06 AM   #13515
Tech Initiate
 
Bigrigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22
Default

These race-winning features are now standard equipment:
■ 8 mm-longer hard-anodized aluminum chassis for more straight-line stability and better post-jump recovery
■ New, straight front arms for more ground clearance and better aerodynamics
■ New, interchangeable rear arms for front or rear shock mounting options
■ Redesigned rear chassis brace for easier access to gearbox and power system
■ New side pods provide more mounting space for electronics and better dirt and water protection
■ New front shock tower design and material for faster,
easier access to camber links and superior crash resistance ■ Improved, low-profile rear shock tower for better post-jump
handling and more shock tuning options
■ New v2 cab-forward body for greater downforce and
straight-line stability
■ More shock piston choices, including blank pistons for
custom setups
■ Updated DIMEC X ball cups for better crash resistance and
faster adjustment
■ -2 mm rear low roll-center suspension hanger for improved
(forward) traction and smoother cornering on low-grip tracks ■ All Team Durango Type “B” upgrades
__________________
C4.2 B5 B44.2 LRP FLOW Airtronics M11x
Bigrigger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16572 10-14-2017 01:35 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-07-2017 11:57 PM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 09:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:52 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net