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Old 01-23-2014, 03:04 PM   #13456
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I'll have to withdraw part of my original comment on the DEX210's strength. My front shock tower has actually snapped. However, even though it was snapped, I still managed to finish an a-main ahead of last place. I heard something pretty gnarly happen (like a loud crack) during the last qualifier after I took a nose-dive trying to clear a triple. The car drove away and still qualified in 4th. But I only now see the damage during a rebuild lol. Hopefully nothing else surprises me as I dig through it further.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:09 PM   #13457
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I wouldn't consider that a knock against it's strength at all. A wreck like that would break lots of cars.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:18 PM   #13458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I wouldn't consider that a knock against it's strength at all. A wreck like that would break lots of cars.
That's true. Everything else has been solid.

Has anyone tried out the new molded composite gears and cross-shafts for the gear diffs? I question their strength running in a mod class. And now they are using them on their V4 DEX410 kit as standard. Sounds like an easy way to DNF no?
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:39 PM   #13459
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Those Are The Same As The DEX410V4 If Iam Not Mistaken


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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Why TLR22 caps? Durango has new ones coming out.

Part #: TD230035

Are you referring to these things?


Or the cone ones?
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:41 PM   #13460
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They survive the 410, they'll be fine in the 2wd, I'll be putting them in for motorama for sure.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:15 PM   #13461
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Originally Posted by lovethebuggy View Post
To the first ones, those washers which sizes should i get?



I didn't see them... They are in stock already?
Ive been using the caps for months now.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:12 PM   #13462
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I have another question...

As I'm replacing the stock 13.5t motor with a 9.5t, do you think that would be useful too upgrade to aluminium or carbon fiber shock towers? And I need to re do the shocks as they don't have almost any fluid... What should I use for jumping and bashing??
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:00 PM   #13463
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Are You Sure Your Going To Use That For Bashing Not The Best Choice...


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Originally Posted by lovethebuggy View Post
I have another question...

As I'm replacing the stock 13.5t motor with a 9.5t, do you think that would be useful too upgrade to aluminium or carbon fiber shock towers? And I need to re do the shocks as they don't have almost any fluid... What should I use for jumping and bashing??
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:08 PM   #13464
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Are You Sure Your Going To Use That For Bashing Not The Best Choice...
The motor? Why not? It is supposed to be more powerful than the stock... I'm bashing in open areas so I keep crashes to a minimum, but as I liked to jump I would like to be sure and not break the towers...
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:32 PM   #13465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovethebuggy View Post
The motor? Why not? It is supposed to be more powerful than the stock... I'm bashing in open areas so I keep crashes to a minimum, but as I liked to jump I would like to be sure and not break the towers...
That's a tough call. The aluminum towers won't break. They'll bend instead if the collision is hard enough. That could lead to a permanent chassis tweak. But considering it's such a light car, the aluminum ones may be the best call for bashing. But keep in mind, if the crash is hard enough, that will just end up breaking the plastic bits around the tower.

In my opinion, get a few extra sets of the plastic towers and save some money :-) It takes a pretty good hit to take out the towers. I had to land nose down on a triple to do it.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:37 PM   #13466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
That's a tough call. The aluminum towers won't break. They'll bend instead if the collision is hard enough. That could lead to a permanent chassis tweak. But considering it's such a light car, the aluminum ones may be the best call for bashing. But keep in mind, if the crash is hard enough, that will just end up breaking the plastic bits around the tower.

In my opinion, get a few extra sets of the plastic towers and save some money :-) It takes a pretty good hit to take out the towers. I had to land nose down on a triple to do it.
A triple is a pretty large jump isn't it? That's nice actually, I may get a few spares and test the "water" lol, faaaar away from the water actually
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:43 PM   #13467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovethebuggy View Post
A triple is a pretty large jump isn't it? That's nice actually, I may get a few spares and test the "water" lol, faaaar away from the water actually
It was a pretty decent sized jump at our track. A good 7 feet long going as fast as the 13.5t stock motor could take it.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:02 PM   #13468
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Just a cautionary warning. If you are buying TD option parts to lighten and reduce rotating mass. The light weight machined spurs with all the holes is thicker in the main webbing that has the holes in it and weighs more than standard spurs, also since the gear is thicker where the slipper plates go the gear cover wont clear, even the Exotek which has more clearance. You need to space the cover out at least 1mm. The vented slipper plates also weigh more due to the center being section being 1mm thicker. Using the molded gears in the diff did reduce weight by 15 grams. Aluminum axles were 24 grams while stock steel are 64 grams, 40 gram savings. With prudent use of the drill press on the gear and slipper plates and the lighter parts including alum idler shafts rotating mass has been reduced by about 150 grams.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:20 AM   #13469
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Some of you might have seen it already on Oople, now I want to share my sidepod design for the DEX 210 here with you. As Team Durango appears to be by far too slow with bringing real tuning parts for the DEX 210 on the market (like the longer alu chassis the team drivers are running for a long time now) and after seeing the new Yokomo 2WD layout I decided to go for my own design.

The initial idea was to make a monocoque chassis like the Motogo Seiki DMX 410 that would allow the use of side-by-side saddle packs or a rotated shorty lipo. After a few drawing attempts (and receiving the first production quotes) I changed the design to sidepods that would fit the +11 RDRP chassis. This would also allow to use a longitudinal battery as with the original sidepods. Plenty of weight distribution options though.
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-140108_chassis_1.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-140108_chassis_2.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-140108_chassis_3.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-140108_chassis_4.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-140109_chassis_1.jpg  


Last edited by fmo; 01-24-2014 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:21 AM   #13470
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Yesterday I received the machined parts and test-fitted them to the chassis. Absolutely promising. When the parts return from hard anodizing I will build the car and post more (and better) photos.

Cheers
Frank
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-140109_sidepods_1.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_2991.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_2997.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_2998.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-img_3003.jpg  

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