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Old 01-12-2014, 11:21 AM   #13321
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Originally Posted by twisted View Post
need help with a rough track set up.the track is dirt clay,med grip and is blown out in some places.

i have the dimex +8 chassis 35 front 30 rear red rear spring green font (i think).

the car is not liking the bumps.
What pistons are you using? If you are having trouble with the bumps usually it's due to the shocks not being able to react fast enough. (you have too much dampening. i.e. your shock oil viscosity is too high). I would suggest trying a lighter oil and/or larger pistons. What pistons are you running? Shock oil weight is only half the battle….

Keep in mind as you go to lighter oil and bigger pistons the car may start to bottom out on larger jumps. It's a balancing act as all car tuning is….

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Old 01-12-2014, 03:24 PM   #13322
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I run on a rough track and run 4x1.3mm front and rear with 30wt front and 25wt rear kit springs and 24mm ride hieght (our track is a shared 1/8 scale track so jumps are huge).

I found the stock 6x pistons had not enough pack but also didn't mind the 3x1.6 2x1.7 but it had a little to much pack. Our track varies so much between racce meetings I just try find a happy middle ground setup.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:30 PM   #13323
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1.2 6 hole pistons. front shocks mounted on inner most hole on the tower,outer most hole on the arm. rear shocks mounted on outer most hole on tower,outer on arm.

no roll center shims in front or rear under inner ball studs.35/30 for shock oil
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:18 PM   #13324
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I am picking up a DEX210. It was the RTR version. I was trying to look throught the thread but didn't find anything about the difference. Is there a difference between the two besides gear diff and the chassis? I can upgrade to the ball diff and get the +8 or +11 aluminum chassis. But is everything the same? the pictures look a little different.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:54 PM   #13325
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Twisted, I would probably try 1.3 x6 hole pistons before you dump the oil and try a lighter fluid. You could probably go all the way to 1.4 x6 just to see the differences (I think this might not be enough pack) but again it really depends on the size of the jumps and how many bumps and how fast you are trying to go through them. You may need to go to a slightly lighter spring as you go to less dampening as well.

side note here, the way you build your shocks also affects the amount of pack. Its possible to build more or less pack into the shock depending on how much you bleed when you build them….this is a bit more advanced but to keep it short: essentially how much rebound you have (OIL ONLY, NO SPRING) means more pack…..
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:04 AM   #13326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrankito View Post
I am picking up a DEX210. It was the RTR version. I was trying to look throught the thread but didn't find anything about the difference. Is there a difference between the two besides gear diff and the chassis? I can upgrade to the ball diff and get the +8 or +11 aluminum chassis. But is everything the same? the pictures look a little different.

Thanks in advance.
The RTR only comes with the idler pin, shims and bearings for the 3 gear transmission configs. The side pods of the DIMEC chassis types having a different shape and the chassis being longer compared to the kit version are the only real major difference between the 2. The +8mm body is also slightly wider than the kit body.
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:43 AM   #13327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisted View Post
need help with a rough track set up.the track is dirt clay,med grip and is blown out in some places.

i have the dimex +8 chassis 35 front 30 rear red rear spring green font (i think).

the car is not liking the bumps.
Try single tapered machined piston from durango using the 4x1.0mm and redrill the holes to 1.2mm x 4 holes 27wt losi. Dark Green Front Rear, the same, single tapered 4x1.0mm but drill 2x 1.5mm and 2x 1.1mm and 25wt losi. Light Blue Rear. The car will have enough pack for the big jumps, but also good on the rough stuff. RM4 transmission, run between 1.5 to 3 antisquat. Middle hole on lower arm, middle on tower. Front outer hole on arm, middle on tower. No shims for rear inner camber link. 2mm shims on the front inner camber link. Car should be easy to drive. Adjust front trailing or front upper link if you need more steering. Its always easier to add steering once your car is stable.

Our local track is med bite dirt/clay and some spots have low grip. Some people use mini pins while others use bar codes. I have tried them both, its personal preference. One thing though. Use closed cell on the rear tire with the setup, aka or proline soft. Its more consistent. Open cell (standard white foams) just don't have the consistency.

Oh forget to mention. I run shorty pack mounted forward. You can try mounting it mid if you want more rotation. I don't place my battery to the rear. The more rear you place the battery, sure you got more grip, but you get more rotation, which can be bad if traction is low. Mounting it up front is way more consistent, with the traction you get with RM4. Full pack will definitely give you more grip cause of the weight. But you can add 7oz automotive weight to each rear hub using servo tape which will yield way more grip than a full sized pack in your car. It has to do with sprung and unsprung weight. Its better on the hubs than on the chassis.
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Last edited by Dino_D; 01-13-2014 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:12 AM   #13328
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Just went mid motor since our local track owner started taking car of the clay and traction is way up. Drove my rear motor and mid motor back to back and mid is definately the way to go with high bite clay. Anyone have some useful info for mid motor on set up for high bite. Already looked on Petite Rc for set up sheets but didn't know if anyone else out there had some good info to share for a newbie to midmotor.

Does everyone still recommend diff case support for roll center links that connect to the diff case.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:46 AM   #13329
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I made my own diff case camber link plate. Mine didn't break but I wanted camber link options that aren't there. I'm not even sure the new case's alternate location matches mine either.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:15 PM   #13330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invrtd View Post
Just went mid motor since our local track owner started taking car of the clay and traction is way up. Drove my rear motor and mid motor back to back and mid is definately the way to go with high bite clay. Anyone have some useful info for mid motor on set up for high bite. Already looked on Petite Rc for set up sheets but didn't know if anyone else out there had some good info to share for a newbie to midmotor.

Does everyone still recommend diff case support for roll center links that connect to the diff case.
What track are you referring too? I've been running mid motor on SCVRC and OCRC for a bit now. I plan to try out some of the other local tracks soon as well.

I do recomend the diff case support but it will probably take some modification to make it work in mid motor. I've just ordered mine and haven't had a chance to see what it will take to make it work. Although I've heard the B version of the case may work better. Haven't really seen much on this yet….
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:23 PM   #13331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekt View Post
The RTR only comes with the idler pin, shims and bearings for the 3 gear transmission configs. The side pods of the DIMEC chassis types having a different shape and the chassis being longer compared to the kit version are the only real major difference between the 2. The +8mm body is also slightly wider than the kit body.
Thanks. I'm going all in with Durango and am getting a killer deal that I just can't pass up and the buggy comes with it. I have been wanting to run buggy but to get a good feel sometimes the RTR are not the way to go.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:43 PM   #13332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrankito View Post
Thanks. I'm going all in with Durango and am getting a killer deal that I just can't pass up and the buggy comes with it. I have been wanting to run buggy but to get a good feel sometimes the RTR are not the way to go.
I don't know why you would say the RTR isn't good. I took a brand new RTR with the suspension package I mentioned in my earlier post, also switched to RM4, and added 2 more gears in the RTR gear diff and ran really thick Tri-Flow silicon grease in it and the car was really good.

At my local track the average lap times for A-Main pace was in the mid 19s. Occasionally the A main drivers can dip into the high 18s. On my first pack, I was easily pulling low 19s. Then I let one of the local hot shoes drive it, and within the 3rd lap he was pulling mid 18s consistently. 18.1s was his fastest. There isn't a 2WD car that has dropped below 18s per lap yet. After that, it seems like everyone wanted to try my car and most of the drivers could improve by at least 0.5s per lap. I think a lot of people were surprised that I took a RTR with minimal modifications and it was better than most pro kits at the track. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with a plastic chassis that flexs. Sometimes it just makes the car easier to drive, resulting in faster time. I just need to tweak the car a bit more and see if I can get the car to crack into the 17s.
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:11 PM   #13333
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The rtr version really isn't much different than the kit. Yes the chassis is different but many change to it anyways. The disadvantage of this car in rtr form is that the electronics may be lacking compared to buying what you want separately but that's true of all rtr's.
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:11 PM   #13334
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Try single tapered machined piston from durango using the 4x1.0mm and redrill the holes to 1.2mm x 4 holes 27wt losi. Dark Green Front Rear, the same, single tapered 4x1.0mm but drill 2x 1.5mm and 2x 1.1mm and 25wt losi. Light Blue Rear. The car will have enough pack for the big jumps, but also good on the rough stuff. RM4 transmission, run between 1.5 to 3 antisquat. Middle hole on lower arm, middle on tower. Front outer hole on arm, middle on tower. No shims for rear inner camber link. 2mm shims on the front inner camber link. Car should be easy to drive. Adjust front trailing or front upper link if you need more steering. Its always easier to add steering once your car is stable.

Our local track is med bite dirt/clay and some spots have low grip. Some people use mini pins while others use bar codes. I have tried them both, its personal preference. One thing though. Use closed cell on the rear tire with the setup, aka or proline soft. Its more consistent. Open cell (standard white foams) just don't have the consistency.

Oh forget to mention. I run shorty pack mounted forward. You can try mounting it mid if you want more rotation. I don't place my battery to the rear. The more rear you place the battery, sure you got more grip, but you get more rotation, which can be bad if traction is low. Mounting it up front is way more consistent, with the traction you get with RM4. Full pack will definitely give you more grip cause of the weight. But you can add 7oz automotive weight to each rear hub using servo tape which will yield way more grip than a full sized pack in your car. It has to do with sprung and unsprung weight. Its better on the hubs than on the chassis.
thanks, ill give this a shot.
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:30 AM   #13335
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I don't know why you would say the RTR isn't good. I took a brand new RTR with the suspension package I mentioned in my earlier post, also switched to RM4, and added 2 more gears in the RTR gear diff and ran really thick Tri-Flow silicon grease in it and the car was really good.

At my local track the average lap times for A-Main pace was in the mid 19s. Occasionally the A main drivers can dip into the high 18s. On my first pack, I was easily pulling low 19s. Then I let one of the local hot shoes drive it, and within the 3rd lap he was pulling mid 18s consistently. 18.1s was his fastest. There isn't a 2WD car that has dropped below 18s per lap yet. After that, it seems like everyone wanted to try my car and most of the drivers could improve by at least 0.5s per lap. I think a lot of people were surprised that I took a RTR with minimal modifications and it was better than most pro kits at the track. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with a plastic chassis that flexs. Sometimes it just makes the car easier to drive, resulting in faster time. I just need to tweak the car a bit more and see if I can get the car to crack into the 17s.
I wasn't knocking the RTR. That is why I was asking. Sometimes the RTR of other brands you end up having to dump money into them before you can drive it properly. Example is the b4. I had one and it was horrible until I upgraded shocks, +8 chassis etc... I wanted to make sure if I was going to have to do anything to it which it sounds like I won't to be able to be competitive out of the box. My desc210 was not an rtr and people were saying to get the kit not the RTR.
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