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Old 01-10-2014, 06:36 AM   #13306
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Finally got everything in mine last night. I need the sensor cable but that'll be here today. What does everyone run for a pinion, a rough broad estimate? I have the SP ESC and 13.5 motor in it. I put a, I think, 21 in it just to make sure it spun correctly. I doesn't seem blazing fast.
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:50 AM   #13307
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At this point in my buggy racing career, I am still learning to drive something so small and nimble, So Given that and the higher chance that I will be running at lower bite tracks in the coming outdoor season, would a swap to a plus 8 plastic chassis be better for me?
My opinion. Lets just talk about material.
Aluminum chassis makes the chassis stiffer, hence your suspension has to do more work, so your suspension settings are more crucial to the setup to get it to work right. If your settings are a bit off, the car will be inconsistent but you will notice it versus a plastic chassis which could mask the symptoms.
If your car is feeling a bit nervous or twitchy, try giving it some flex, it takes the nervousness out. If the conditions of your track stays the same, such as indoors, then perhaps you can fine tune your setup with a stiffer chassis.
Normally you want a stiff chassis on smooth and high bite surfaces. I prefer the weight of the aluminum on high bite carpet, as the weight prevents me from traction rolling. Sometimes I even a 1mm brass plate under the lipo.

Running the plastic chassis allows the chassis to flex slightly and it gives you a wider window of suspension setup as the chassis takes up some of the absorption. Its a good thing if you are new or not that familiar with setup, as I think the plastic is way more forgiving in terms of driving. Also you don't need to chase setup with changing conditions (outdoors) as much with a chassis that flexs more.
Plastic is better for rough and low bite surfaces. Dimec is the softer, Dimec20 is stiffer (more suited to clay and high bite tracks)

Standard chassis is suited for small technical indoor clay and carpet tracks.
Longer chassis reduce steering and adds stability which is suited to lower bite tracks and larger flowing tracks. You can still make the long chassis turn like a short chassis, just by changing roller centers and battery placement. Longer chassis seems to jump better and easier to drive in the rough.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:08 AM   #13308
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Originally Posted by Surgetek View Post
Finally got everything in mine last night. I need the sensor cable but that'll be here today. What does everyone run for a pinion, a rough broad estimate? I have the SP ESC and 13.5 motor in it. I put a, I think, 21 in it just to make sure it spun correctly. I doesn't seem blazing fast.
Check this out: http://www.durangofansite.com/DEX210gearing.php

I believe that you should also get a smaller spur gear for 13.5, max pinnion size that you can get on the motor with the stock 87T spur seems to be around 26.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:15 AM   #13309
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Kind of forgot about that site. Thanks for pointing me there.

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Originally Posted by Uga View Post
Check this out: http://www.durangofansite.com/DEX210gearing.php

I believe that you should also get a smaller spur gear for 13.5, max pinnion size that you can get on the motor with the stock 87T spur seems to be around 26.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:57 AM   #13310
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Hi guys , im fairly new to off road. I'm running a stock kit 210 on medium bite carpet. The problem im having is when the buggy lands the rear kicks over and flips the buggy. All landings are flat so no landing jump and the chassis isn't hitting the floor. Ive went to stiffer rear springs and it didn't help. Do you guys think I might have built the shocks wrong or might have to stiff of oil ? I'm running 40wt in front and 35wt in rear. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:59 AM   #13311
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Stiffer spring may make it worse.
When you built the shocks, did you push the shaft all the way in bleeding excess fluid out of the bleed hole before running the screw in?
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:08 PM   #13312
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+1 for Dino D Chassis talk
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:57 PM   #13313
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Originally Posted by fq06 View Post
Stiffer spring may make it worse.
When you built the shocks, did you push the shaft all the way in bleeding excess fluid out of the bleed hole before running the screw in?
I sure didn't. Ill do some looking for a video on building the shock correctly. Do you think im running the correct thickness oil?
Thanks again.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:02 PM   #13314
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Honestly, no idea on tuning this thing... driven it once with MX Flame's setup and am happy with it so I haven't messed around. I do want to rebuild the shocks though so I will be getting a handle on weights soon enough.
I'm sure someone here will have oil wt recommendations.

Look up emulsion shock build. Simple though, fill body, let bubbles rise, no screw in cap, a few drops of oil in cap, put cap on and screw down. Now push shaft all the way up for a zero rebound build (do zero for now) and then run screw in bleed hole while holding shaft all the way in.
Done.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:54 PM   #13315
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There are many setup sheets here
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ngoDEX210.html
Find a track description like your and the springs your using and use that oil weight then change up or down to suite your style.
There's also a shock building guide on that page.
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Old 01-10-2014, 02:14 PM   #13316
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
I sure didn't. Ill do some looking for a video on building the shock correctly. Do you think im running the correct thickness oil?
Thanks again.
I run mine on carpet and I run 27.5 with black spring on the rear and 45 with light brown spring on the front. My setup is on petitrc.com. It's under carpet and the name for the setup is Matt. I have changed a few things as I run the shocks on the rear of the arms but that is a good starting point.
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:19 PM   #13317
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Originally Posted by Walkman View Post
I run mine on carpet and I run 27.5 with black spring on the rear and 45 with light brown spring on the front. My setup is on petitrc.com. It's under carpet and the name for the setup is Matt. I have changed a few things as I run the shocks on the rear of the arms but that is a good starting point.
Thanks ill check it out.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:38 PM   #13318
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need help with a rough track set up.the track is dirt clay,med grip and is blown out in some places.

i have the dimex +8 chassis 35 front 30 rear red rear spring green font (i think).

the car is not liking the bumps.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:48 PM   #13319
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need help with a rough track set up.the track is dirt clay,med grip and is blown out in some places.

i have the dimex +8 chassis 35 front 30 rear red rear spring green font (i think).

the car is not liking the bumps.
try a less viscous oil with the stock blue springs in the back maybe.....or mess around with caster.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:56 PM   #13320
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Originally Posted by twisted View Post
need help with a rough track set up.the track is dirt clay,med grip and is blown out in some places.

i have the dimex +8 chassis 35 front 30 rear red rear spring green font (i think).

the car is not liking the bumps.
What pistons are you using ? Where are your shocks mounted ? What's your set up ? Hard to give advice with the limited information you have given..
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