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Old 12-27-2013, 06:03 PM   #13156
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Hi!

I'm new to posting here, I've been searching and searching and I always end up here in rctech and I just can't help myself, I really like the look of the dex210 and it seems like a nice car...
I don't want to race, requires a lot of time/money that I'm not willing put onto it, but I would like a fast buggy to play around...

How fast do you think this buggy goes in the rtr version? I just saw one in the sale trade area and looks like a good deal...
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:55 AM   #13157
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Where should you place the caps?
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Old 12-28-2013, 11:58 AM   #13158
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They slide on over the outdrives and gives dust protection for the outdrive bearing, I belive they are meant to meet up with the optional dust boot as well to create a good overall protection.
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Old 12-28-2013, 10:54 PM   #13159
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Can Someone Please Pm Me And Tell Me How The Hell YoU Get This Car To.Turn... Thanks
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:21 AM   #13160
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Can Someone Please Pm Me And Tell Me How The Hell YoU Get This Car To.Turn... Thanks
turn the wheel on your radio.

make sure your steering endpoints are set correctly. make sure there is no bind in your steering rack. make sure you're using the proper front tires for your track. make sure your ride height is set properly. make sure your servo doesn't suck. If you're racing the RTR, take out the servo saver.

couple things you could try (not all at once); move your battery forward, lower your front ride height a mm or two, softer front spring, less castor, shorter front links, angled front links, more toe-out.

find a good tuning guide and learn how to figure it out yourself.

And next time, ask a little nicer. You're not entitled to a response from anybody here so don't sound like a spoiled kid when you ask.
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:10 PM   #13161
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Just picked up a rtr 210 on eBay cheap. Is it worth it to spend the money on the aluminum chassis or is the stock rtr chassis half decent?
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:48 PM   #13162
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Just picked up a rtr 210 on eBay cheap. Is it worth it to spend the money on the aluminum chassis or is the stock rtr chassis half decent?
I would not spend money on the stock alu chassis. The stock rtr chassis is definitely ok, especially if you are racing on low traction. The stock alu is also 8mm shorter than the rtr chassis, so the car will be a lot more nervous.

If I were to change chassis in your place I would upgrade to a dimec spec B chassis or the dimec20 spec B, which actually is almost as stiff as an alu version. The spec B versions are a little stiffer, and more durable than the original spec. But start with using the stock chassis, it is definitely good enough.

If you are dead set on an alu upgrade I would go for a longer version of the chassis, we are using the RDRP +11 which is really good, but it costs some $$
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:08 PM   #13163
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I just started my new home made chassis. It is going to be a dedicated mid motor only setup. It will allow saddle packs or a shorty. I am of the opinion that if you are running a MM car in lower traction situations, you need to run saddles. If you are running high grip or stock blinky class you want a shorty. Well see how well this works out and if I'm right or not.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:41 PM   #13164
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I just started my new home made chassis. It is going to be a dedicated mid motor only setup. It will allow saddle packs or a shorty. I am of the opinion that if you are running a MM car in lower traction situations, you need to run saddles. If you are running high grip or stock blinky class you want a shorty. Well see how well this works out and if I'm right or not.
This will be interesting, really looking forward to reading your analysis of the outcome. As a note I can say that here in Sweden we race almos exclusively on carpet during the winter season, and a lot of kits seem to have good success with a saddle pack configuration. There are kits that work well with a shorty as well, but they have primarily a DB2 or TM2 type of configuration with the motor on one side and the shorty on the other. This is all mod since stock classes aren't run in Sweden.

We have played with a shorty in the dex as well using the normal chassis, but never really found a setting that was universally good, have had the best results with a full stick, so it will be really interesting to see what you come up with.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:55 PM   #13165
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Originally Posted by GregerL View Post
This will be interesting, really looking forward to reading your analysis of the outcome. As a note I can say that here in Sweden we race almos exclusively on carpet during the winter season, and a lot of kits seem to have good success with a saddle pack configuration. There are kits that work well with a shorty as well, but they have primarily a DB2 or TM2 type of configuration with the motor on one side and the shorty on the other. This is all mod since stock classes aren't run in Sweden.

We have played with a shorty in the dex as well using the normal chassis, but never really found a setting that was universally good, have had the best results with a full stick, so it will be really interesting to see what you come up with.
Here's my attempt at what he is doing, and here's another that someone did modifying the sidepods on a stock chassis.
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:26 PM   #13166
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What Are Spare Parts That Will Be Really Needed At The Track
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:56 PM   #13167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregerL View Post
I would not spend money on the stock alu chassis. The stock rtr chassis is definitely ok, especially if you are racing on low traction. The stock alu is also 8mm shorter than the rtr chassis, so the car will be a lot more nervous.

If I were to change chassis in your place I would upgrade to a dimec spec B chassis or the dimec20 spec B, which actually is almost as stiff as an alu version. The spec B versions are a little stiffer, and more durable than the original spec. But start with using the stock chassis, it is definitely good enough.

If you are dead set on an alu upgrade I would go for a longer version of the chassis, we are using the RDRP +11 which is really good, but it costs some $$
Thanks for the reply, yea I was checking out all the aftermarket chassis for it, but don't wanna drop too much into it off the bat. If the stock chassis holds up good I'll just roll with it. Maybe eventually get the dimec chassis like you said. I just figured id ask, I didn't know if there was that much of a handling difference between the composite and aluminum
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:01 PM   #13168
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Here is my chassis, just finished the proto. Hopefully ill make it to the track this week to test it. If it works like I hope and there is interest ill make some more!
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Durango DEX210 Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:03 PM   #13169
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Here is my chassis, just finished the proto. Hopefully ill make it to the track this week to test it. If it works like I hope and there is interest ill make some more!
With shorty
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:15 PM   #13170
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That's pretty much how I'm doing mine except I'm not using aluminum.
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