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Old 11-18-2013, 08:04 AM   #12916
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
Well that's disappointing. Broke a ball stud trying to robe it to try a different inner camber link location. Guess now I know why they are making 2MM ones for the V2.

Hopefully I'll be able to find one so I can make the points race tomorrow...
The first one I ever tried to remove split in half. Fortunatley I was removing them to replace them with ball studs from the 22. They are my reference standard on all of my cars.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:35 PM   #12917
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My son has been racing now for about a total of (6) days with his kit and has had great success. Although he's in novice he's taken TQ and 1st at both big races recently held here in UT. This past weekend I noticed (when he broke) that the rear toe/kick up block is awfully soft. I'm sure its a different plastic in comparison to the arms. Are the option alum. ones a must have? Do you guys buys the standard or LRC? He brock (2) of these this past weekend and I'm wondering what else may break.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:24 PM   #12918
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The rf and RR aluminum are one of the smarter upgrades , the rear hubs and tranny case are a weaker point to but if tour upgrading that much might as well buy new towers rear hubs c hubs turnbuckle kit and steering plate and its as solid as it'll get the diggy front tower with the ballstud pointing forward I wouldn't recomend the angle of the turnbuckle is odd so it'll POP a cup and break a ARM when landed on wrong
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:27 PM   #12919
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My son has been racing now for about a total of (6) days with his kit and has had great success. Although he's in novice he's taken TQ and 1st at both big races recently held here in UT. This past weekend I noticed (when he broke) that the rear toe/kick up block is awfully soft. I'm sure its a different plastic in comparison to the arms. Are the option alum. ones a must have? Do you guys buys the standard or LRC? He brock (2) of these this past weekend and I'm wondering what else may break.
I've found the type B suspension holders #TD330578 are able to hold up to a fair bit of punishment, they no longer use the pivot ball allowing for more material around the hinge pin. The aluminium holders are a good upgrade if you are still having issues with them tearing out.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:00 PM   #12920
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I have a pretty good rear motor setup. but i need help setting up a mid motor. Do anybody have a good mid motor setup for a indoor clay track.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:36 PM   #12921
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I have a pretty good rear motor setup. but i need help setting up a mid motor. Do anybody have a good mid motor setup for a indoor clay track.
My MM4 is coming along pretty well, but its only been run in stock (blinky). Mod motors can really bring out the gremlins in MM4 from what I have come to realize..I may give MM3 a few packs this weekend if time allows..

Last edited by flame56mx; 11-18-2013 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:54 PM   #12922
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yell I run modify motor 8.5.
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:41 PM   #12923
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Another second place finish in the local points series. Shorter camber links and inline axles have me the agressive feeling steering I was looking for without sacrificing any rear bite. Might even go up to 4* rear toe since I can afford to give up a little steering finally...
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:03 AM   #12924
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My MM4 is coming along pretty well, but its only been run in stock (blinky). Mod motors can really bring out the gremlins in MM4 from what I have come to realize..I may give MM3 a few packs this weekend if time allows..
I'm running my mm3 in mod at my local clay indoor track. I have absolutely no problems with grip. In fact, I can pull wheelies if the track is just right. My main problem is getting around the tight 180* as it has a bit of a push going through it. I'm still working out the kinks, but my lap times improve every week so I must be doing something right.

I'm starting to think mm3 is the way to go with mid motor. the trick is just getting enough weight on the rear. I'm up to about ~66% on the rear, which puts me right where an rm3 with a battery full forward might be. the car is just so easy to drive like this.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:32 PM   #12925
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Get the long outdrives if you dont want to put limiters inside the dampers
Long outdrives? Can you post a part number please? or better a link?
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:14 PM   #12926
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Long outdrives? Can you post a part number please? or better a link?
#TD310417 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDDDH&P=7
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:09 PM   #12927
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do anybody know a website that sales the shorter shock tower.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:28 PM   #12928
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Diggity Designs has a lowered rear tower, http://www.diggitydesigns.com/Durang...r_Lowered.html
The Tresrey front tower is 1mm lower than stock, http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...r-tytd125.html
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:30 PM   #12929
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do anybody know a website that sales the shorter shock tower.
What exactly does a lowered rear shock tower do for the car? Slightly lower cg and longer suspension arm sag is all I can figure, would it also allow the shocks to bottom out before the chassis does? Is this good or bad?
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:11 PM   #12930
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i just want to drive mine, but i need new parts in the meantime, i'm doing my setup & found the previous owner & he told me what upgrades were already done!
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