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Old 11-15-2013, 07:36 PM   #12901
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
I could see doing that after actually checking droop to make sure it's the same left to right but if you move your shocks them it changes everything...

I've been checking mine by removing the wheels and putting the chassis on a parts container that is 27MM tall. Then measuring the height of each axle. If it's 25MM then I have -2MM droop.
That would definitely give you an accurate droop reading.
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:37 PM   #12902
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The way I found to do it with my Durango rc is when you preload the shock enough to make it full travel measure the shock screw to screw then set droop measure again ,,, by setting it on something you have to have a flat even surface or it'll be off the pit tables I have been to were roughly painted and had chunks of clay and dirt on them
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:48 PM   #12903
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Hey Durango dudes. Does anyone have a spare pair of the 14mm plastic rear hex hubs? PM me if so. Thanks!
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:34 PM   #12904
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First night back running my rango in over a year, was lucky not to qual last. The track (carpet offroad) had no grip and I am running tires that have seen better days. Fresh rubber this week and redemption for next friday night!
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Old 11-16-2013, 01:47 AM   #12905
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Originally Posted by ae4ever View Post
Droop will always change when you change shock mounting location unless the manufacturer took that in consideration when designing the suspension.
That was the point I was trying to make....
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:31 PM   #12906
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How do you measure Droop? I measure droop by measuring between the lower spring perch and the shock adjustment nut at full extension, and then at ride height. Then subtract the difference, and that's my droop.
Sorry, I guess I meant the limiters in front and rear. I measure full extension - ride height (sag as we call it in motorcycle suspensions).
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:46 PM   #12907
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Hey y'all,
I have a DESC210 and want to convert it to a DEX210. What parts will I need for a full conversion? Part nubers would be helpful. Also could use the part numbers needed to make the rtr models mid motor compatible.
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:03 PM   #12908
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Originally Posted by tbredon View Post
Hey y'all,
I have a DESC210 and want to convert it to a DEX210. What parts will I need for a full conversion? Part nubers would be helpful. Also could use the part numbers needed to make the rtr models mid motor compatible.
Thanks,
Tbredon
You'll need TD709033, TD310247, TD601002 and TD310238 to change a RTR to mid motor.

At the cost of buying all the parts to convert between the DESC210 and DEX210 you can almost buy a kit, but here's a list of what you'll need to convert at minimum, if you kept all the spare plastic pieces that came with your RTR. I didn't include the screws needed either.

DRIVE SHAFT SET (DEX210 1pr) TD210032
WING MOUNTS TD320126
2x TURNBUCKLE - STEEL (M3x43mm) (2pcs) TD330129
2x BIG BORE SHOCK BODY: 23mm STROKE (1pc) TD330154
2x BIG BORE SHOCK BODY: 31mm STROKE (1pc) TD330169
SUSPENSION ARMS FRONT: 1 pair LEFT & RIGHT TD330337
SUSPENSION ARMS REAR: 1 pair LEFT & RIGHT TD330338
SHOCK TOWER SET TD330342
TURNBUCKLE M3x36mm (2pcs) TD330343
ALUMINIUM FRONT AXLE (2pcs) TD330349
STRAIGHT WING TD480003

Wheels in yellow
WHEEL RIM REAR: 14mm HEX YELLOW (2pcs) TD510017
2WD WHEEL RIM FRONT: YELLOW (2pcs) TD510018
or white
WHEEL RIM REAR: 14mm HEX WHITE (2pcs) TD510015
2WD WHEEL RIM FRONT: WHITE (2pcs) TD510020

If planning to run the aluminium chassis you'll need
CHASSIS SIDE POD SET TD320122 and MAIN CHASSIS PLATE TD320125
and either
DEX210 CLEAR BODY SET (Includes DECALS & MASKS) TD402009
or
DEX210 CAB FORWARD BODY (Includes DECALS & MASKS) TD402014

Otherwise
DIMEC20 CHASSIS DEX210 (+8mm) (Type B) TD320247
DIMEC CHASSIS DEX210 (+8mm) (Type B) TD320229
DEX210 CAB FORWARD BODY (+8mm) (Includes DECALS & MASKS) TD402012

If you plan of swapping between MM and RM regularly you'll want
COWLING SET TD402010
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:01 PM   #12909
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Thank you ekt. Sounds like it would be easier to find someone to trade models or sell one of the SC trucks out right. Appreciate your assistance.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:29 AM   #12910
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I spent the last 2 race weekends running in stock buggy. I have been using a ball diffs previous to building a pair of gear diffs and giving them a go. They felt fine, and I didn't really notice much difference in performance. After the race on Saturday 11/16/13 I switched back to my ball diff transmission, and put it the test the clock. I have a pair of gear diffs for sale if anyone is interested...

Last edited by flame56mx; 11-17-2013 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:31 PM   #12911
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Is the weight of the gear diff an issue in 17.5?
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:37 PM   #12912
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Is the weight of the gear diff an issue in 17.5?
Maybe? The ball diff just seemed to let me put more power down, and it felt more reactive to input.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:13 AM   #12913
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Well that's disappointing. Broke a ball stud trying to robe it to try a different inner camber link location. Guess now I know why they are making 2MM ones for the V2.

Hopefully I'll be able to find one so I can make the points race tomorrow...
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:13 AM   #12914
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
Is the weight of the gear diff an issue in 17.5?
The gear diff is actually lighter than the ball diff, ~6 grams difference. The gear diff can be lightened further with the lightweight outdrives and plastic gears/cross shafts.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:01 AM   #12915
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You guys are absolutely correct about measuring the "actual" droop in a setup and there are many tools to do this. But for purposes of copying someone's setup or making your own, it is a VERY accurate way by measuring screw to screw. Agreed if you change the top shock location on the Durango you would see a slight change in actual droop, if you didn't move the bottom shock position, but honestly the lower edits droop seems to match as you change position again at least on the lower arms as the positions are slightly raised as you move outward. But again if you are trying to track your own settings for purpose of records and to set a base etc while the screw to screw measurement is not the 'actual' droop read it is a super easy and accurate way to measure your setup. To each his own though, I like measurements that are accurate and quick, I keep spacing measurements on my turnbuckles to rebuild or reset as needed as well.. while this doesn't guarantee a camber or toe match it does guarantee if it doesn't match something else is bent or out of shape and requires further investigation. For me once I have a ideal base setup, honestly I don't change it much, and as I rebuild and replace parts I want to be able to be as close to that base as possible. Again just my method.
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