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Old 11-12-2013, 01:56 AM   #12856
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I've ordered the lowered shock from Diggety Designs and filed my existing rear hangar down just to try it and it seems to help, so I'm trying to figure out which one to buy, I'd like to get the TD one, but can only seem to find it on TD.com and don't want to pay the $65 shipping, anyway, I'm rambling on...

What chassis are you running, have you tried any of the after market chassis's?
I am running the type "B" chassis, I do have an aluminum chassis here that B-man made a few months back, but dont have alot of time on it. Lately I have been running blinky class, and the type "B" is quite a bit lighter than the aluminum.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:24 AM   #12857
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Anyone know of a good set of drill bits for drilling out pistons I need 1.2mm 1.3mm.
thanks.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:41 AM   #12858
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Anyone know of a good set of drill bits for drilling out pistons I need 1.2mm 1.3mm.
thanks.
I use http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ston-Drill-Set for drilling pistons
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:04 AM   #12859
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Originally Posted by Slash and Burn View Post
I've ordered the lowered shock from Diggety Designs and filed my existing rear hangar down just to try it and it seems to help, so I'm trying to figure out which one to buy, I'd like to get the TD one, but can only seem to find it on TD.com and don't want to pay the $65 shipping, anyway, I'm rambling on...

What chassis are you running, have you tried any of the after market chassis's?
I'm going to have a few of the LRC RR hangers soon. A friend in Scotland ordered a few and I'd bringing them over. The UK price plus shipping make this an expensive part though. He has 2 extras not sure about the price but my guess is around $40. Let me know if you're interested.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:54 AM   #12860
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Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else. I've had a desc210 for almost a year and one thing that has been bulletproof through all the races is the trans. The gears the case all of it. I've taken it apart and rebuilt many times. I just got a new dex210 rtr and ran it once and took it apart to change the diff fluid and put it back together. Seem to be running ok but would always slip even after slowly tighten the slipper then just I tightened it all the way. Still slipping wtf. When I took it apart to try new pads the pin that goes thru the spur and into the trans locked onto the keyed shaft that drives the gear inside the trans. I tried everything to get it off so the spur motor plate a bearing the spacer inside and that shaft are all stuck together. I've built the trans many times so I'm not sure I messed it up idk what happened. Anyone else have this trouble. I ordered new parts so ican just break the pin and replace it. But I'd like to know if it was my error or not to prevent it from happening agian.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:57 AM   #12861
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Ill post a pic after I get the parts and show you guys and maybe you can tell me what I did wrong or what happened excatly. Like I said it could be my fault but I've built the trans a lot.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:33 AM   #12862
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What chassis do you guys like for outdoor dirt tracks? The longer chassis or the stock aluminum? I bought it used and it came with both, not sure which one to try first.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:17 AM   #12863
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What chassis do you guys like for outdoor dirt tracks? The longer chassis or the stock aluminum? I bought it used and it came with both, not sure which one to try first.
I prefer the long chassis 100% of the time on an out door track. I feel it just makes the car easier to drive harder.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:38 AM   #12864
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is the kit chassis the +8 or is it the same length as the RTR?
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:03 AM   #12865
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The aluminum kit chassis is the same size as the rtr I believe, but in aluminum.

I thought the added weight of the aluminum might help grip and be the default outdoor chassis, but I can see the advantage of more stability, especially with our high speed corners.

The long chassis is what's in use right now, didn't think it would be preferable, but I'm happy to keep it as is and give it a whirl first.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:19 AM   #12866
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is the kit chassis the +8 or is it the same length as the RTR?
The kit chassis is original length, and the RTR is the +8 chassis The RTR is also a bit wider in the side pods than the kit.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:02 PM   #12867
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Anyone run droop? If so why? New to the dex 210
Manual says nothing-about settings and I am confused
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:35 PM   #12868
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Anyone run droop? If so why? New to the dex 210
Manual says nothing-about settings and I am confused
I haven't yet, meaning I run at full droop, no limiting. I played around with it a little when I ran mid motor last year. If you run the stock rear shock shafts (silver) some have said it helps to run a little less droop to help the cvd's from catching the out drive slots on full extension. If you run the ti shafts (black or gold) they are 3mm shorter and eliminate that issue. I am assuming the droop screws would be more of a tool aimed at rug racers..

Last edited by flame56mx; 11-12-2013 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:44 PM   #12869
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has anyone noticed a night and day difference between the kit and the +8 aluminum chassis?

i actually need a new chassis (mine is scratched to sheet) also if anybody has new extra parts/rims/upgrades i'm always looking to buy.. am i allowed to post that?
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:58 PM   #12870
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Anyone run droop? If so why? New to the dex 210
Manual says nothing-about settings and I am confused
I run max droop front and rear. Helps when your driving on a small indoor track that is blown out to hell and amazingly rough with terrible faces on the jumps.
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