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Old 11-06-2013, 11:24 AM   #12796
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The type B chassis included is basically stronger, the other type B parts not included to various things (like making it easier to work on in some cases)
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:29 AM   #12797
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I have a DEX210 that I been testing all the STRC parts on and have not let one of my friends run it in 17.5. Since he is newer to the hobby the parts get tested much better. So far the graphite towers have performed great and even my buddy has not done anything to them.

Since the diff needed rebuilt I decided for less maint we would put the gear diff in the car. I dreaded getting into the tranny on this car but took me about 20 minutes total and I was done. Electric screw driver helped but all in all it was so much easier than expected. Ran a few runs on the car since the performance at least in 17.5 is the same as a diff and the gear diff with 2k in it is buttery smooth.

I ran a few laps with the gear diff in and it worked great. The lack of maint and the fact that is was very consistent lap after lap on our track is going to be really nice for my buddy to just be able to practice and race now without having to worry about the diff getting gritty. Car works very well overall and been pretty bullet proof with the added STRC parts.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:51 PM   #12798
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
The type B chassis included is basically stronger, the other type B parts not included to various things (like making it easier to work on in some cases)
Should I just wait till something breaks to move to the Type B parts?
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:55 PM   #12799
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thats what I'd do.
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #12800
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Originally Posted by djhSPAWN View Post
Should I just wait till something breaks to move to the Type B parts?
Personally, I would install the type B parts straight up, save you having to do it at the track during a race meet if something does break.
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #12801
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I still have all of the original parts on mine. I say original but what I mean is at this time I have no Type B parts. I do intend to use the new gear case when it comes out. I am planning to build my own chassis but haven't worked out what I want it to look like yet. I have no plans to use the DIMEC chassis since I do not like cab forward bodies at all and would like to continue to use the stock body in some fashion. Even if it needs to be modified a bit.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #12802
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Personally, I would install the type B parts straight up, save you having to do it at the track during a race meet if something does break.
The only downside to this is that you'll have to use a plastic RR hanger. The stock one won't work. I think I'd stick with the type A for now and once you get comfortable, think about changing. The risk is exactly what ekt says though. I broke a ST chassis the night before a race and had to change it the morning of and it's definitely something you don't want to rush through.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #12803
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The only downside to this is that you'll have to use a plastic RR hanger. The stock one won't work. I think I'd stick with the type A for now and once you get comfortable, think about changing. The risk is exactly what ekt says though. I broke a ST chassis the night before a race and had to change it the morning of and it's definitely something you don't want to rush through.
the SRC block aluminum RR is in stock, the LRC is not..
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:08 PM   #12804
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
The only downside to this is that you'll have to use a plastic RR hanger. The stock one won't work. I think I'd stick with the type A for now and once you get comfortable, think about changing. The risk is exactly what ekt says though. I broke a ST chassis the night before a race and had to change it the morning of and it's definitely something you don't want to rush through.
The type B RR hanger is pretty durable, from my experience, it has copped a fair bit of abuse in my SC with no issues.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #12805
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Should I just wait till something breaks to move to the Type B parts?
I'd wait for them to break. I read that the front and rear shock towers break all the time. So I bought the carbon fiber ones... About 2 years later, I STILL have not broken either shock tower and feel like I wasted paying for the carbon fiber ones!!! Also, I've heard of the ballcups popping out all the time... Guess what? Never happened to me and again, I have a whole bunch of parts laying around that hasn't broken. I haven't even broken arms yet. I have, however, broken the hubs quite a bit and the steering support.

So the moral of the story is...wait until you break them. Otherwise, you're going to have a lot of parts laying around that you don't need...
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:55 PM   #12806
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Before I even drove my car I installed Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and ball studs and ball cups from the 22. I use these on all of my cars standard. No problems at all.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:23 PM   #12807
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What set ups do people run at motorama? also looking for tire sugestions. I ordered the dimec type b chassis conversion kit (tdrz2001)to keep th weight down for stock 2wd to replace my +8mm alloy. Should I order the alloy RR block as well? Is the traction there to run the dimec20 chassis?
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:32 AM   #12808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekt View Post
The type B RR hanger is pretty durable, from my experience, it has copped a fair bit of abuse in my SC with no issues.
Completely agree. In the DEX210, I think it'd hold up well. I let a friend drive my DEST210 and he ripped the type B RR hanger on the first pack! I think it had to do with leverage since the ST arms are wider and open wheel.

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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
the SRC block aluminum RR is in stock, the LRC is not..
True, I doubt that came with the parts he got though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theclutch View Post
I'd wait for them to break. I read that the front and rear shock towers break all the time. So I bought the carbon fiber ones... About 2 years later, I STILL have not broken either shock tower and feel like I wasted paying for the carbon fiber ones!!! Also, I've heard of the ballcups popping out all the time... Guess what? Never happened to me and again, I have a whole bunch of parts laying around that hasn't broken. I haven't even broken arms yet. I have, however, broken the hubs quite a bit and the steering support.

So the moral of the story is...wait until you break them. Otherwise, you're going to have a lot of parts laying around that you don't need...
He already has the parts laying around. It came with the RTR.

For the CF towers, in addition to durability, they're a lot less flexible. You should try installing it see it changes the way the car handles. If you don' want to, sell it! The towers I mean
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:05 AM   #12809
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Think Durango will release some LRC RF blocks so you don't have to run 3* antisquat. Better yet offering an entire LRC combo in plastic would be great so I don't have to spend $20 on something that I might not even like/use.
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:31 PM   #12810
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My only problem with this chassis is you will break a ballcup.
Basically the only part I have broken so I bought a set for $13 bucks.
What I like about buying durango parts is you get the whole entire tree.
I did turn some heads when i raced this chassis. This track I race on
is dominated by Losi 22's and B4.2's.

I was surprized how well this chassis handled against people running
alot faster motors than I was running. The stock Speed Passion system isnt slow, especially when you run a 50c or higher lipo that I was using.
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