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Old 11-01-2013, 08:26 AM   #12751
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Originally Posted by Konich View Post
When you guys run the gear diff do you have the (2) gear or the full (4) gear in the diff?
4 gear for the win!!
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:37 AM   #12752
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I have a gear diff in my box so I'll have to add some gears and fluid to try it out. The ball diff is so smooth when built right its hard to beat.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:48 AM   #12753
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Both the kit and RTR come with multiple RF hangers. It's labeled 0/1.5/3.
I thought anti-squat was in reference to the screws sticking through the A-arms? Maybe I'm mistaken...
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:49 AM   #12754
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You are thinking of the droop screws.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #12755
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Has anyone run the AE diff and cvd's? For stock racing, I was thinking of running the MIP puck system with the AE rear hubs, sorta like Jorn has done in the past, but its a lot of money to try it. I'm planning on going to Motorama, and don't know if the AE diff gear being 1 tooth smaller creates issues, or should I just stick with the gear diff?
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:31 PM   #12756
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Originally Posted by Konich View Post
When you guys run the gear diff do you have the (2) gear or the full (4) gear in the diff?
I use all 4, to start I'll say I'm used to gear diff's with 1/8 scale being my original class. The gear diff to me is smooth and it's almost maintenance free and no worries about breaking in. I love as much set it and forget it as I can get,,, they stay consistent week after week after week. Ball diff is fine, they can be a pain to find a sweet spot but tbh you don't really ever "tune" a ball diff, they have very limited areas of operation too loose & bark then done; too tight gets gritty or worse and then it's worthless as well. Not that you can't win with one, just imo doesn't make me faster, no matter what track I was racing on. I will say for high bite tracks I for SURE want the gear diff, but again just an opinion.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:11 PM   #12757
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I had the same problems with ball diffs before going to acer tungsten balls. I buy three sets to do two sets, and have two balls left over, oh well. I have done two sets now and the one on the desc210r is doing great. I forgot to tighten it after installation for a month, and it is fine now. You have to know when to tighten, and how much. You tighten slowly as you keep turning to keep it from binding during the initial break in, tighten then turn and keep doing so till it gets tight, then back off an 1/8 turn. After running it, check again for tightness.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:31 PM   #12758
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Loving this car super pumped to race it tomorrow. Trick servo installed yep fresh race rubber on new wheels glued up yep new reciever so I can wheel it with my m11x yep brand new 50c Lipo yep. Now the fun begins speedpassion cirtrix speed control letting smoke out trying to set endpoints !!! Yep!!! Yay me!

Oh well I guess its just ebuggy tomorrow dangit!
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:15 PM   #12759
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Originally Posted by homershoots View Post
Loving this car super pumped to race it tomorrow. Trick servo installed yep fresh race rubber on new wheels glued up yep new reciever so I can wheel it with my m11x yep brand new 50c Lipo yep. Now the fun begins speedpassion cirtrix speed control letting smoke out trying to set endpoints !!! Yep!!! Yay me!

Oh well I guess its just ebuggy tomorrow dangit!
Oh yeah, those days are the reason they invented beer (for starters)..
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:23 PM   #12760
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Oh yeah, those days are the reason they invented beer (for starters)..
Lol for sure! Ill see if Durango will warranty it. Cars only 2 weeks old.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #12761
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Well I just took the buggy out of the box,
begun gluing some hot bodies High Beam rear tires for it.
The stock rear tires might work for outdoors, but i kinda doubt they will work indoors.
I found something I dont like about the car already. The rear pin that holds
the hex wheel hub thing in place to put the wheels on can fall out very easily.
But I think I know what to do to solve this. Is put a dab of fingernail polish on it.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:10 PM   #12762
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Threadlock or locking hexes is the common options. Diff options for stock racing anyone?
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #12763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
Well I just took the buggy out of the box,
begun gluing some hot bodies High Beam rear tires for it.
The stock rear tires might work for outdoors, but i kinda doubt they will work indoors.
I found something I dont like about the car already. The rear pin that holds
the hex wheel hub thing in place to put the wheels on can fall out very easily.
But I think I know what to do to solve this. Is put a dab of fingernail polish on it.
I use a small drop of CA on mine..
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:23 PM   #12764
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Same here a drop of tire glue and no problems.

Anyone have luck with the 3X1.6 and 3X1.7 pistons?
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:07 PM   #12765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
Has anyone run the AE diff and cvd's? For stock racing, I was thinking of running the MIP puck system with the AE rear hubs, sorta like Jorn has done in the past, but its a lot of money to try it. I'm planning on going to Motorama, and don't know if the AE diff gear being 1 tooth smaller creates issues, or should I just stick with the gear diff?
I've been using the ae gear diff almost since I've owned the buggy works fine I use 2k oil
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