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Old 10-15-2013, 04:22 PM   #12631
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Hello-Just picked up a 210 rtr for crazy$$$.I have 2 22"s already1 rm 1 mm.I only have 2 packs thu the 210 and lovin the car right outta the box so far.Are the sumo braces a no brainer?I read somewhere if you file the servo mounts it "de-stresses" the front of the dimec chasssis.so do you all recomend the alum skids?I run mostly on a carpet offroad track thats sometimes brutal.Seen many snapped b4's.Gonna run rm3(stock)for a while then try mm4 after I get a feel for this buggy,any tips?
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:41 PM   #12632
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Quick question, When running mid motor, what are the differences between 3 and 4 gear? Which will have the most traction? Also I just picked up a 81 tooth spur. What pinion should I start with running a tekin gen2 8.5?
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:01 PM   #12633
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Quick question, When running mid motor, what are the differences between 3 and 4 gear? Which will have the most traction? Also I just picked up a 81 tooth spur. What pinion should I start with running a tekin gen2 8.5?
MM4 will have more traction. I would start with a 23 or 24 pinion.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:46 PM   #12634
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
Hello-Just picked up a 210 rtr for crazy$$$.I have 2 22"s already1 rm 1 mm.I only have 2 packs thu the 210 and lovin the car right outta the box so far.Are the sumo braces a no brainer?I read somewhere if you file the servo mounts it "de-stresses" the front of the dimec chasssis.so do you all recomend the alum skids?I run mostly on a carpet offroad track thats sometimes brutal.Seen many snapped b4's.Gonna run rm3(stock)for a while then try mm4 after I get a feel for this buggy,any tips?
The sumo gearbox braces are a good preventative measure to avoid breaking the gearbox camberlink mounts. Personally I don't run them and haven't broken a gearbox yet but have seen others break theirs.

The aluminium skids will help reinforce the type A chassis to prevent breakages but if you're running on high grip carpet I would recommend getting a DIMEC20 or even the aluminium chassis for more consistent handling.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:07 PM   #12635
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My son is assembling his kit and I noticed he's got some play in the rear arms where the hinge pin is. Curious if this is correct because the front end is spot on with no play at all but the arms drop without resistance (w/o shocks on). He followed step 12 and it shows no washers so I'm assuming its correct. It's about over 1mm of play, if I put a washer in their it's tight enough that my arms don't fall as there's a little resistance.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:57 PM   #12636
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My son is assembling his kit and I noticed he's got some play in the rear arms where the hinge pin is. Curious if this is correct because the front end is spot on with no play at all but the arms drop without resistance (w/o shocks on). He followed step 12 and it shows no washers so I'm assuming its correct. It's about over 1mm of play, if I put a washer in their it's tight enough that my arms don't fall as there's a little resistance.
The rears were a little loose on my car also, but you definitely would rather they be loose than too tight. If they dont drop under their own weight, its too tight. I have used Kyosho shims in the past Part #96641 and they are very handy for tightening things up a bit.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:01 PM   #12637
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are all the type b parts just a revised part for durability? Same geometry?
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:00 PM   #12638
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are all the type b parts just a revised part for durability? Same geometry?
As far as I've seen yes, but the new trans case is also supposed to ease some maintenance issues when removing or servicing the back end..
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:34 PM   #12639
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are all the type b parts just a revised part for durability? Same geometry?
Some for durability, others are for ease of working on the car. Same geometry.
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:08 PM   #12640
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I'm liking the new Type B hangers. No more pivot balls that like to cause hassle when adjusting anti squat etc. Now to order the Type B gearbox and rear brace to make changing antisquat less of a nightmare!
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:53 AM   #12641
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17.5 gearing 33/69.
gotta put all this new info in my set up book. Gonna try out the 210 for the first time this weekend in 3M configuration. A lot of useful info on this thread,thanks to everybody.
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:07 AM   #12642
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Anyone using that newly re-designed RDRP front steering link? Looks pretty sweet...
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #12643
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Anyone using that newly re-designed RDRP front steering link? Looks pretty sweet...
Did they make a change to the one that is like the kyosho style?
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:56 AM   #12644
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Hey All,
I picked up couple DEX210's for our program and one was a parts roller, it needs a few things to get it going. Also picked up a DESC210 but it only needs a new front/rear bumper and body mounts.

Need the following

front top deck bushings
Layshaft spacer
Shock bottom spring retainers
Shock bottom (part that mounts to a-arm)
slipper (not pads) alum. disc parts

Could also use the stock 2.4 radios and electronics for all our cars.

Also looking for spares for them so if you change out or upgrade anything please keep us in mind.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...1-10-road.html

Thanks
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:17 AM   #12645
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front top deck bushings
slipper (not pads) alum. disc parts
Let me double check but I think I can help with these. Bling'd the bushings and switched to avid.
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