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Old 09-27-2013, 07:26 AM   #12391
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I think I may need to have a custom part made unless someone out there already makes one. I want to run 0 degrees of rear toe on the arms but want to get 3 degrees at the hubs. All of the blocks for the rear arms are at 3 degrees while the hub inserts only go up to 1.5 degrees. The arm mount is easy to fix since the rear mount also fits the front using only the 2 inner mounting holes in the chassis. I'm running mid motor and want no anti-squat so this works. The problem is that I can only get 1.5 degrees of toe at the hub. Does anyone make a 3 degree insert for the hub?
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...-insert-guide/
I use a 1.5 rf block so I can have the full range with just the inserts
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:35 AM   #12392
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I've seen that but it only reinforces my dilemma. They only show up to 1.5 degrees with the inserts. I want a 3 degree. I am going to run 0 degree on the arms themselves by getting creative since the car comes with the arms fixed at 3 degrees.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:58 AM   #12393
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I've seen that but it only reinforces my dilemma. They only show up to 1.5 degrees with the inserts. I want a 3 degree. I am going to run 0 degree on the arms themselves by getting creative since the car comes with the arms fixed at 3 degrees.
Just out of curiosity, why do you want to run all the toe-in from the hub?
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:27 AM   #12394
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I've got a bit of a different philosophy on tuning than many others which is called balance tuning. Having run a true trailing arm car I can tell you that a suspension arm that is behind the pivot point takes bumps extremely well. I know that we don't have trailing arms so bear with me. Conventional a-arms have bumps coming at them from 90 degrees which is a bit less effective at absorbing those bumps. Would anyone ever run a forward facing trailing arm (leading arm?) setup where the wheels and arms are in front of the pivot point? Of course not! It would be terrible. What we are doing by sweeping the arms themselves forward by rotating the pivot point forwards is essentially giving ourselves 3 degrees worth of "leading arm" suspension. That makes no sense to me. I want the front and rear arms to be mirror images of each other in length and orientation. I am also changing the upper inner ball stud locations to match those at the front which means setting them out a bit farther. I'll control toe at the hub but I don't want to do it by messing with the suspension geometry. I know there are many who probably think I'm crazy but it's my car and my method.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #12395
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I've got a bit of a different philosophy on tuning than many others which is called balance tuning. Having run a true trailing arm car I can tell you that a suspension arm that is behind the pivot point takes bumps extremely well. I know that we don't have trailing arms so bear with me. Conventional a-arms have bumps coming at them from 90 degrees which is a bit less effective at absorbing those bumps. Would anyone ever run a forward facing trailing arm (leading arm?) setup where the wheels and arms are in front of the pivot point? Of course not! It would be terrible. What we are doing by sweeping the arms themselves forward by rotating the pivot point forwards is essentially giving ourselves 3 degrees worth of "leading arm" suspension. That makes no sense to me. I want the front and rear arms to be mirror images of each other in length and orientation. I am also changing the upper inner ball stud locations to match those at the front which means setting them out a bit farther. I'll control toe at the hub but I don't want to do it by messing with the suspension geometry. I know there are many who probably think I'm crazy but it's my car and my method.
Thanks for the explanation.
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #12396
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So Jorn Neumann doesn't even make the top 10 in the worlds? Something's wrong...
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:55 PM   #12397
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I wouldn't say anything is necessarily wrong. The competition is very tough. The best car won't go anywhere without a driver. He was outdriven.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:08 PM   #12398
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So Jorn Neumann doesn't even make the top 10 in the worlds? Something's wrong...
Neither did Phend nor Tessmann, and that's something nobody would've bet on a week ago. Only 10 drivers make it to the main so there's always gonna be some big names missing the cut.

I don't see any reason to worry. Remember the euros, anyone?
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:25 PM   #12399
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Does anyone have detailed pics of their rear shock flip mod with the rear wheels off? I'd like to know how you run the rear hubs/carriers and how you run the rear hinge pin spacers.

I'm going to give it a try now . . . and I have my car half taken apart. lol.

PS I'm running the stock TD rear carriers.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:49 AM   #12400
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Does anyone have used Avid slipper system to their Dex210 ?!??!
I haven't found any info either here or web.
I have installed system to my Ddex210 but I didn't manage to run.
If I made slipper nut to tight car not moving, to soft making noise and little movement. Am I doing wrong ?!?! Maybe preparation !? Could you please help me or show me any address(web info or video) to solve this problem ?!
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:20 AM   #12401
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Does anyone have used Avid slipper system to their Dex210 ?!??!
I haven't found any info either here or web.
I have installed system to my Ddex210 but I didn't manage to run.
If I made slipper nut to tight car not moving, to soft making noise and little movement. Am I doing wrong ?!?! Maybe preparation !? Could you please help me or show me any address(web info or video) to solve this problem ?!
I am. Does the slipper bolt fit through the shaft cleanly? On one of my kits, It was a very tight fit and would cause binding. It should spin freely. I ended up trying a 3mm arm reamer and that was the key for me. Sounds like something's binding for you.

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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Does anyone have detailed pics of their rear shock flip mod with the rear wheels off? I'd like to know how you run the rear hubs/carriers and how you run the rear hinge pin spacers.

I'm going to give it a try now . . . and I have my car half taken apart. lol.

PS I'm running the stock TD rear carriers.
Both the arms and the hubs are reversed. I'll take some pics later today.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:05 AM   #12402
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Hey guys, I have an new Dex210 kit I bought last week to complete a build that I am parting out, 95% of the parts remain, and most are still in the sealed kit pkgs. Pm me if you have a need for anything..
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:39 PM   #12403
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I am. Does the slipper bolt fit through the shaft cleanly? On one of my kits, It was a very tight fit and would cause binding. It should spin freely. I ended up trying a 3mm arm reamer and that was the key for me. Sounds like something's binding for you.



Both the arms and the hubs are reversed. I'll take some pics later today.
Ah. Thanks. Greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:34 PM   #12404
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Please remove the image links if you reply to this post. The only issue I had was at one particular track layout, I kept popping off rear ball cups. I suspect the springs may have been knocking it off. It only happened if I hit it wrong and got inverted. Totally messed with my head. I plan to replace the turnbuckles with AE titanium.







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Old 09-29-2013, 03:52 PM   #12405
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If you are popping ballcups on the rear, I suspect you have stretched the "cup" part too far. Before giving up on the TD ballcups, Ream out the hole for the turnbuckle slightly, apply a little grease to chapstick the the turnbuckles threads and fully thread them. This will cut the threads into the ballcups and make it possible to adjust them without having one pop off.

I average about 3 months on the ballcups in my cars before changing them out.

http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4915
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