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Old 10-25-2011, 08:22 PM   #1216
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22 Spur will also be too small as they have the same hole diameter as the B4.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:11 PM   #1217
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can anyone else help me on what other then airtronics servo i should get for my 210 since im going to be useing a tekin rs esc and a 13.5 ballistic motor

thanks,,,brian
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:13 PM   #1218
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can anyone else help me on what other then airtronics servo i should get for my 210 since im going to be useing a tekin rs esc and a 13.5 ballistic motor

thanks,,,brian
The best, fastest, and strongest servo you can afford. There isn't one magical servo we can recommend without you giving us a budget.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:47 PM   #1219
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Finally got mine all done, anyone have any issues with binding in either of the rear axle joints? I'm getting a clicking out of one side, and the height of the arm actually changes if you slowly rotate that side, almost like axle cup is bent. Haven't pulled it apart to try a different set of holes yet but wanted to check to see if anyone else had problems?
Did you get any locktite in the CV joint?

Randy, Did you remove the rear droop screws or is it full droop with them in?
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:58 PM   #1220
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Did you get any locktite in the CV joint?

Randy, Did you remove the rear droop screws or is it full droop with them in?
Full droop with the screws out is WAY too much droop. I haven't measured MY chassis droop yet, but my rear droop screws are unscrewd about 1/2 - 2/3 turn
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:42 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by Glowster21 View Post
Finally got mine all done, anyone have any issues with binding in either of the rear axle joints? I'm getting a clicking out of one side, and the height of the arm actually changes if you slowly rotate that side, almost like axle cup is bent. Haven't pulled it apart to try a different set of holes yet but wanted to check to see if anyone else had problems?
Started on my kit tonight, and it's been great so far. I'm coming from having owned every generation of XRay EP touring cars (local carpet track is now dirt) and I wanted a buggy that was built like an XRay, and I got it. I have one CVD doing as you described and that is my only issue so far. I have rebuilt both using every combination of bone/pin/coupler/axle there is and have isolated it to one of the axles. Tried every set of holes on said axle with the same result. Comparing the cup of the good axle vs the cup of the bad axle they look the same, I can't see any burrs or machining defects that would make one work and the other not. The holes *look* like they are 180 degrees from each other but I don't have a way to measure it so can't be 100% sure. I'll finish out the car and come back to it, and see if anyone else comes across this issue in the meantime. Everything else about the buggy has met or exceeded my expectations, and believe me they were high!

Randy thanks for posting the setup, I'm starting from there. My track should be a med-high bite track, indoor clay. I know it's a tough gig having to go out and play with your new buggy all day and figure out a starting setup, but someones gotta do it right?

-rocky b

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Old 10-26-2011, 03:10 AM   #1222
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I have a theory for the ball cup popping, for those are having problem, will you guys happen to use the little holes on the ball cup as a levage when you are building the turn buckle? Will there be any chance you may already deform the ball cups when you are building it? Just my 2 cents.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:19 AM   #1223
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Was putting shocks on the car last night. Noticed one of the standoffs (Part# 330312-3) wasn't completely molded. I looked to see if they were available online, but couldn't find any. Anyone know if the big bore fr/rr metal standoffs will work? Will probably call TD for a replacement too.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:50 AM   #1224
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This is normal as your diff nut is still too lose... its out too far in the outdrive so the CVD is being pinched. It will go away when you tighten your diff. No need to do anything special.
It happens without the tranny in as well, it's definitely in the axle somewhere. Good thought though as you can definitely see a potential clearance issue if you don't give that extra turn to the diff screw!
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:52 AM   #1225
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Oh and regarding the diff on this buggy......it's absolute BUTTER!!!! ranks right up there with my Schumacher diffs in the unbelievably smooth department! Nice job TD.....
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:53 AM   #1226
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Did you get any locktite in the CV joint?
Nope, just black grease no loctite
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:54 AM   #1227
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Was putting shocks on the car last night. Noticed one of the standoffs (Part# 330312-3) wasn't completely molded. I looked to see if they were available online, but couldn't find any. Anyone know if the big bore fr/rr metal standoffs will work? Will probably call TD for a replacement too.
This is what you will need to convert to metal...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Mount-Set-2

and this...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...vot-Ball-Set-4

And then use the metal nut that holds the shock screw on the tower to hold the metal unit on. This new piece will allow for quicker shock tuning.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:17 AM   #1228
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This is what you will need to convert to metal...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Mount-Set-2

and this...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...vot-Ball-Set-4

And then use the metal nut that holds the shock screw on the tower to hold the metal unit on. This new piece will allow for quicker shock tuning.
Ok, just to be clear, I need two packs of the rear metal standoffs for front and rear, right?
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:03 AM   #1229
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Ok, just to be clear, I need two packs of the rear metal standoffs for front and rear, right?
Two packs of the metal standoffs and one pack of the plastic pivot bushing.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:11 AM   #1230
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Anyone have the info I asked about a couple pages ago? Looking for the wheelbase measurement.
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