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Old 09-16-2013, 03:57 PM   #12271
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well the issue is the manual is not very good. And alot of guys are building it like a associated and losi diff. Which from my understanding is not the way to build it. I think alot of the issue is there is no starting point in millimeters on how far to set the slipper nut. I did ask the question about it and was told there was no way to give me a starting setting. Why is this. Losi and associated give a starting point. I have my slipper cranked down pretty far, as well as my diff to where the it is almost bottomed out. So when I heard it slipping some I wasnt sure which one was slipping. I think my diff is to tight, And I think this is why my car was pushing some this weekend. So anyone else feel free to chime in. Im still new to the 1/10 side so im still learing.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:08 PM   #12272
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I got to check out the Durango DEX210 up close while making a product for my company for them, and wow, looks like a lot of engineering went in for a company that is not already well known in the 2wd racing category.

Impressed to say the least. Keep up the good work Durango.
When you look at the principles and research & Development arm and race team of Team Durango you can tell these guys are not guessing and hoping for the best. The design, engineering, fit and finish are first class. Seeing how they build a prototype, test, modify, test, race, test, make changes, test, race then move toward production is quite awesome.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:29 PM   #12273
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Anyone have feedback for the Proline Fromt Holeshots for a super dusty hard packed track? Or any feedback at all...
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:32 PM   #12274
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Anyone have feedback for the Proline Fromt Holeshots for a super dusty hard packed track? Or any feedback at all...
They are awesome if it is just dust. If there is loam on top I would go with a rib. What is the "go to" rear tire for the track? If it is Holeshot or Tazer then the Holeshot fronts will be dialed. I find them more consistent than a rib front.

FYI I do not like the stock front foam with them though. I cram a whole rear foam when mounting mine
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:35 PM   #12275
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Anyone have feedback for the Proline Fromt Holeshots for a super dusty hard packed track? Or any feedback at all...
I like the aka vektors or even the impakts as first choice,, then maybe the double dee before the holeshots,, but that for me locally.. similar conditions but not all dirt or dirt/clay mix is the same.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:40 PM   #12276
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They are awesome if it is just dust. If there is loam on top I would go with a rib. What is the "go to" rear tire for the track? If it is Holeshot or Tazer then the Holeshot fronts will be dialed. I find them more consistent than a rib front.

FYI I do not like the stock front foam with them though. I cram a whole rear foam when mounting mine
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I like the aka vektors or even the impakts as first choice,, then maybe the double dee before the holeshots,, but that for me locally.. similar conditions but not all dirt or dirt/clay mix is the same.
Track is very new and so far my Calibers have proven to be the best. Though another driver with a super overpowered B4.1 looked to have decent traction with some Tazers.

I have some of those on order too but my new wheels aren't coming in with the same order so I'll have to wait until Saturday to try them.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:48 PM   #12277
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
Track is very new and so far my Calibers have proven to be the best. Though another driver with a super overpowered B4.1 looked to have decent traction with some Tazers.

I have some of those on order too but my new wheels aren't coming in with the same order so I'll have to wait until Saturday to try them.
The Tazer has been my go to tire since it's release for the tracks here in GA. The only time I drop down to a Holeshot is for bigger races when calcium is used on the tracks. When that happens I am normally running Suburbs by the end of the day.

If you like the Calibers on the current clay I would recommend the Tazers. For me they had all the forward bite of the Caliber, but with tons more side bite.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:01 PM   #12278
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The Tazer has been my go to tire since it's release for the tracks here in GA. The only time I drop down to a Holeshot is for bigger races when calcium is used on the tracks. When that happens I am normally running Suburbs by the end of the day.

If you like the Calibers on the current clay I would recommend the Tazers. For me they had all the forward bite of the Caliber, but with tons more side bite.
Sounds like I'll like them. Calibers are great but there's always room for improvement. Plus the Tazers are M4 vs M3 with Calibers which should help even more.

I'm running the stock RTR setup minus Losi 30wt. oil and 3K in the diff. I'm looking for more steering on power mid-late turn. Think I should add some weight under the servo (running Savox 1251 LP) or try some other setup change?

Added a picture so you can get an idea of how rough/bumpy and dusty the surface it. Could almost go as far as saying it's almost sandy but very very fine sand...
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Last edited by iTz Nicholas72; 09-16-2013 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:33 PM   #12279
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Any tips on how much to tighten the diff? I haven't run my car yet and set the diff up like I do on past cars. I do the tire spin test and set it up to spin 1-1.5 turns. From the sound of it, this won't be tight enough.
I use a drill with an old driveshaft to break my diff in out of the car and just keep tightening the diff a little at time, run it, tighten some more, etc. until I completely bottom the screw and back it off an 1/8 of a turn.....done
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:43 PM   #12280
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All you guy's running the PLUS11 Aluminum Chassis. How many limiters are you running in the rear shocks?
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:10 PM   #12281
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
well the issue is the manual is not very good. And alot of guys are building it like a associated and losi diff. Which from my understanding is not the way to build it. I think alot of the issue is there is no starting point in millimeters on how far to set the slipper nut. I did ask the question about it and was told there was no way to give me a starting setting. Why is this. Losi and associated give a starting point. I have my slipper cranked down pretty far, as well as my diff to where the it is almost bottomed out. So when I heard it slipping some I wasnt sure which one was slipping. I think my diff is to tight, And I think this is why my car was pushing some this weekend. So anyone else feel free to chime in. Im still new to the 1/10 side so im still learing.
If you hear more of a whining noise its the slipper. If your car is literally "barking" when your on power its the diff. Tighten the shit out of that thing! Haha
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:54 PM   #12282
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Default Blinks 17.5

Alright so blinky 17.5 buggy is becoming the new big class at our track so what is better- The Fantom ION4, Schuur Speed or Blue and Gold can Trinity/Fantom/Express motor sports Beast/ Killshot and why?
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:03 PM   #12283
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run whatever fits your fancy. Doesnt seem to matter to me what motor if you can drive. Just gear it right
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:25 PM   #12284
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I just got the RTR vesion today, btw the Flysky GT3B radio binds to the stock receiver. Also, I have some thin 12mm hex adapters from some RPM wide Revolver 2.2 wheels that if turned around fit the axles with room for the pin to slide in. Two mods have to done. 1) either find thinner axle pins or cut the Durango down to the width of the hex adater. 2) snip a little bit of the end of the hex apadter on the edges where the pin nests to slide in the pin like the stock Durango hex adapter.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:48 AM   #12285
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hey guys what setup stations do you use setting these up? iv been looking at the hudy 1/10th off road system or the intergy universal system then I can use it on my DESC210 and 410 as well
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