porter

iTrader: (47)

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ild-guide-pt1/

you sure you inserted the thrust bearing washers correctly? One washer has a larger inner diameter than the other.

Read through the link above

porter

iTrader: (47)

Both cars can be setup to handle similar, I feel the 210 is more forgiving were as the b4 can be a lot more twitchy and harder to get consistant laps.

As for durability, some have issues with ball cups on the durangos, but ive seen more AE ball cups shatter, than ive seen popped durango cups. Otherwise they compare pretty evenly as for arm strength and such

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

well first race with my dex210 today. Car was not bad. Pretty good consider its right out of the box. I still think the diff is to tight. But it worked well. I gave the car a few hard crashes and nothing broke. Only issue im fighting is I think I need a little more steering. I had to wait on the car for a fraction of a second middle and exit of the turn to square up.

oddism

iTrader: (8)

Hey fellas. Does anyone have a review of the durango dex210 RTR?

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Had a shocker with my DEX210 today.

Qualified 5th for the A-main buggy was driving awesome, then rip a rear ball stud right out of the gearbox housing, got around this by drilling holes further in.

Then it was like I had a slipper clutch issue slipping for a good 10 feet but later discovered it was the mip diff was super loose, tightened it up and it performed well.

Then at the end of the race had a crash and split my front C-Hub in half and RDRP seem to be the only ones that make a alloy replacements for $54 so I might just get some spares.

The Inspect the MIP after the race day and the Diff is super gritty where it was smooth before, have I killed it should I get new plates/balls and thust balls?

I am yet to pull the diff apart but if MIP's do get gritty over time I might not worry about or will it just fail later down the track.

Also what ceramic Balls are the best for these diff's

Lastly I grabbed a Sumo rear link bracket anyone had any experience with them? are they tuff enough?

Thanks ahead of time

shagino

iTrader: (57)

The RDRP C hub take away 1mm of track width per side. I was breaking mines too so I put them on.

I would get new diff balls and plates but tear it apart and inspect it. If any of the diff balls have a flat spot, I'd toss the balls out. Same with the thrust bearing. I don't use ceramic in the diff though. I really like bfast stuff for the diff. Super smooth and lasts a long time.

A lot of people on this thread really like the sumo bracket. Tresrey has a CF option also.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I wouldn't recommend ceramic either, they may work well in other cars IMO this is not one of the. Honestly, I use the stock steel diff balls, and they last forever but you have to build it correctly.

2SlowTC

iTrader: (41)

+1 i shattered ceramic balls in the 210. The dingo diff likes to be tight and its too tight for ceramics.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

I had to rebuild my diff yesterday after practice. It started barking at me on hard sweepers and when I had my slipper set tighter. My rings had a very deep groove in them, I flipped them, cleaned the balls and set the diff a little tighter than I had it, hopefully it holds up better this time. Im tempted to swap to the Durango gear diff, I have it in my DESC210 RTR and that thing is butter smooth!

2SlowTC

iTrader: (41)

I know it sounds crazy but....when a dingo diff is tight its still to loose. I have run many 2wd buggies over the years...losi, ae, kyosho, yokomo, etc. and the dingo diff is just the way it is....different. But when setup properly it kicks ass!

lil_man72

iTrader: (29)

i'll give you a quick one. i have the rtr and the kit car. the rtr is easier to drive do to the longer chassi. yes it comes with the +8mm chassi but not the b type.
if they run a 13.5 super stock class at your local track the dex210 fits right in with the speed passion cirtix 13.5 combo. the only drawback is if they allow timing in this class you cant add timing with the rtr speedo/motor.
other than having a plastic chassi and plastic shims instead of aluminum chassi and shims, the rtr is equal or better than the kit with the shorter chassi.
i think this is why you're seeing a blowout on the kits and rtrs.
i think the new rtrs will have the updated chassis and the kits will have an aluminum +8 or +11mm chassi.
if i didn't already have 2 buggies i'd buy another rtr for $199 if i could find one.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

I picked up the RTR and the only changes I feel necessary are tires and to ditch the servo and servo saver setup. My diff had leaked out completely requiring me to tear it down and refill it but I had planed on doing that anyways so I knew exactly what oil I was running to to make sure nothing was binding etc.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the tips everyone, upon further inspection looks like there was a defect in the C hub moulding (lots of air bubbles in the centre) so could of been weaker.

I also have ordered new plates ball's etc and will tear the diff down tonight to inspect. Also have a gearbox case and the sumo camber plate coming.

Good tips on the diff tension also, everyone at the track thought I had it to tight but they all run TLR AE and Kyosho.

It's all learning I guess.

I also followed the durango MIP build video exactly.


One final question do the front camber ball stud rip out like the rear ??

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Why do you call it a MIP build? Makes me think of when MIP made their stealth transmission.

I've never heard of anyone ripping the front camber studs out. You may want to look into CF if you're a rough driver though.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Buy the gear diff guys.. some 5k fluid and you'll never have an issue again. Better than the ball diff IMO inside or out.