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Old 09-08-2013, 03:54 PM   #12181
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Thanks for the helpful reply!

I did order a RTR in blue. Upon advice here, I picked up some spares, but not all that you've mentioned. Would it be advisable to upgrade to the harder composite B type chassis?
If you have the skid plates/braces, you won't have to worry about it. If you ever do break it, you should at least have a spare around just in case. But not necessary. These are what you're looking for http://sumo-racing.com/DurangoDEX210.html
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:56 PM   #12182
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If you have the skid plates/braces, you won't have to worry about it. If you ever do break it, you should at least have a spare around just in case. But not necessary. These are what you're looking for
Bookmarked! Thanks. I was thinking more for stiffness, the DIMEC20 is harder than the stock chassis, no?
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:58 PM   #12183
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It is but youll still want to buy or make skids for it.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:11 PM   #12184
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thanks for the advise to look at the online manual. Tranny now fits perfect. One of issue Im having seems to be odd. I assume the diff goes in the tranny with the diff screw on the right side. I thought I had the diff somewhat tight atleast till I start breaking it in. But the left driveshaft seems to be hiting the diff nut and will not allow the rear arm to have any suspension travel. at first I thought the droop screw was just tighend to much, put I loosed it all the way and its the exact same. Any ideas? More than likely I have something assembled wrong but I have looked over it and cant seem to find any problems.
Did you fix the diff nut problem if yes how cause I'm building mine and im having the same problem please let me know thanks.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:18 PM   #12185
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Originally Posted by simonseize View Post
Thanks for the helpful reply!

I did order a RTR in blue. Upon advice here, I picked up some spares, but not all that you've mentioned. Would it be advisable to upgrade to the harder composite B type chassis?
I would depend on what kind of surface you are running on, the DIMEC20 is recommended for higher grip situations due to having less flex.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:26 PM   #12186
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Did you fix the diff nut problem if yes how cause I'm building mine and im having the same problem please let me know thanks.
I did tighten the diff more and it worked. But the diff to me seems to tight.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:03 PM   #12187
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I bought two different skids for the front and rear to test one has braces that will work with mm and the other would not but it would allow the rear to flex more since its not braced to the rf ether way both will go between my desc210 and dex210 I didn't spend the little bit of money for the performance to break it still cheaper than the kit and +8
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:12 PM   #12188
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
I did tighten the diff more and it worked. But the diff to me seems to tight.
The diff likes to be tighter than you're normally used to, don't be surprised if you still have to snug it up a bit.


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I bought two different skids for the front and rear to test one has braces that will work with mm and the other would not but it would allow the rear to flex more since its not braced to the rf ether way both will go between my desc210 and dex210 I didn't spend the little bit of money for the performance to break it still cheaper than the kit and +8
Gasp, I am outta breath after reading that P..
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:19 PM   #12189
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Yea that's why I try to not post to often to much to say lol
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:04 AM   #12190
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Do you guys think that the SKYRC LEOPARD 60A ESC 9T 4370KV Brushless Motor combo will work well ont ht dex210?
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:49 AM   #12191
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I stripped the screw holding the wheel on the front does anyone have a tip to get it out? also reading setup sheets on Petit I noticed new A arms on the front of Jorn Neumann's car.. Anyone know anything about them?
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:54 AM   #12192
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I stripped the screw holding the wheel on the front does anyone have a tip to get it out?
Cut a slot into it using a dremel with a cutoff wheel. This will allow you to a flathead screwdriver to remove it.
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:58 AM   #12193
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Thank you, I never thought of that!
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:58 AM   #12194
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Works the same with countersunk screws to just get the cutting wheels that wear and wear one down so you won't touch anything around it
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:14 AM   #12195
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Originally Posted by simonseize View Post
Bookmarked! Thanks. I was thinking more for stiffness, the DIMEC20 is harder than the stock chassis, no?
The dimec20 is a little less flexible than the dimec. However, there are a ton of chassis out there to choose from. And... the differences between the dimec 20 and the dimec isn't enough to warrant a total change. Here's a link to a very helpful site when trying to upgrade your parts... http://www.durangofansite.com/main.p...ge=aftermarket
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