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Old 09-07-2013, 01:50 PM   #12151
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Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
Is Durango coming out with new 2wd and 4wd buggies? tower is sold out but their prices are dirt cheap.
yes
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:29 PM   #12152
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Originally Posted by simonseize View Post
I will need different tires, correct? Its a dirt track, maybe clay? Looked sticky. They were using a gas powered tamper as they had just rebuilt. I also don't know if I'll want to go MM immediately, or if the gear box is fully adjustable MM3/4 RM3/4 like the pro.
The RTR tires are too hard and don't provide optimal grip. The RTR does come with all the parts you'd need for any configuration of motor... MM3/4 or RM3/4. I think you only need the bearings that go in the smaller idle gears when running MM4 or RM4.

Anybody looking to buy the RTR kit needs to buy the front and rear skid plates to protect the older style Dimec chassis weak points. Another must change item is the steering plate.

On top of that, if you are prone to having pipes jump out at you... you'd want aluminum rear hubs, an aluminum RF hanger, and possibly a CF rear shock tower. Other than that, nothing else is really necessary.

Some "good to have items" are the CF front tower, battery thumb screws, the SUMO rear inner camber link brace (if you run spacers under your rear camber links... otherwise, the screw is long enough to handle some pretty hard hits), locking rear hexes.

Some "nice to have items" are Lunsford ball cups (or equivalent), TD or Exotek chassis weight, anything else blingy and orange.

As far as the ball cups go, you don't NEED anything but the kit ones. Build them right (tap them and/or make sure they are smooth and you can twist them with only a little force with your hands), don't ever pop them off when working on the vehicle, if one does pop off - replace it (should do that with any vehicle).
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Old 09-07-2013, 05:19 PM   #12153
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broke my first part today...rear shock tower pretty amazing though as it has taken some incredibly hard hits.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:14 PM   #12154
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Having a small issue with the build. On page 34 using rear motor 3 gear it says to use part number 320128. When I put them on the tranny doesn't sit correctly. Am I suppose to use them?
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:19 PM   #12155
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Having a small issue with the build. On page 34 using rear motor 3 gear it says to use part number 320128. When I put them on the tranny doesn't sit correctly. Am I suppose to use them?
The manual is wrong, check the online version of the manual there's also two supports that are not listed that go on the transmission to chassis brace and the shock pistons are wrong in the print manual too.
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:02 PM   #12156
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Having a small issue with the build. On page 34 using rear motor 3 gear it says to use part number 320128. When I put them on the tranny doesn't sit correctly. Am I suppose to use them?
I bought my kit 2 months ago, just checked pg 34 same problem....can't believe they didn't update the manual for later production kits....or maybe Amainhobbies sold me a very old kit back in 2011.

Thanks for pointing this out. I thought Durango was really attention to details..especially with this kit.

Now I have to setup a laptop on my workbench and flip "pages" with my greasy finger pressing on the arrow keys.
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:05 PM   #12157
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Originally Posted by carrotcake View Post
I bought my kit 2 months ago, just checked pg 34 same problem....can't believe they didn't update the manual for later production kits....or maybe Amainhobbies sold me a very old kit back in 2011.

Thanks for pointing this out. I thought Durango was really attention to details..especially with this kit.

Now I have to setup a laptop on my workbench and flip "pages" with my greasy finger pressing on the arrow keys.
I agree. THe manual although it looks really nice is one of the worst Ive seen in the market. Besides the flaws and lack of updates the pics are way to dark. I would also suggest looking into watching the vid on building the ball diff. Manual leaves out some key steps that u need to know.
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:22 PM   #12158
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Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
I agree. THe manual although it looks really nice is one of the worst Ive seen in the market. Besides the flaws and lack of updates the pics are way to dark. I would also suggest looking into watching the vid on building the ball diff. Manual leaves out some key steps that u need to know.
Thanks for the tip! Appreciate it! I will try to find something to build the ball diff for this kit.

I'm new to RC getting into 2wd and 4wd buggies. But hey, people gotta start somewhere @ a point of time.

And yes - the manual looks really nice (cover) - kind of waste now...but I agree the pictures and coloring could be better. I guess with the laptop I can zoom more...... and also maybe use it to watch the ball diff videos / sites

Thanks again.
Robert
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:11 PM   #12159
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Looking at trading my 22 for a 210. What seems to be a goto setup for a good starting point? I run indoor high bite and outdoor medium all clay surfaces.

I have been greatly intrigued by the durango line and would like to give them a go
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:27 AM   #12160
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Do you cut off the front edge of the wing where there is a line or not?
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:51 AM   #12161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captcha View Post
Looking at trading my 22 for a 210. What seems to be a goto setup for a good starting point? I run indoor high bite and outdoor medium all clay surfaces.

I have been greatly intrigued by the durango line and would like to give them a go
Here's a link to a great starting point for setup http://rcmcd.files.wordpress.com/201...ex210-2013.pdf

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Do you cut off the front edge of the wing where there is a line or not?
Up to you. I don't.
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Last edited by McD44; 09-08-2013 at 05:40 AM.
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:13 AM   #12162
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Mcd44 it is a broken link.
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:40 AM   #12163
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Originally Posted by Captcha View Post
Mcd44 it is a broken link.
Sorry, try it again. It should work now.
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:30 AM   #12164
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Ok. Looks good cant waittoget one
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:55 AM   #12165
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Originally Posted by ewashburnaf View Post
The RTR tires are too hard and don't provide optimal grip. The RTR does come with all the parts you'd need for any configuration of motor... MM3/4 or RM3/4. I think you only need the bearings that go in the smaller idle gears when running MM4 or RM4.

Anybody looking to buy the RTR kit needs to buy the front and rear skid plates to protect the older style Dimec chassis weak points. Another must change item is the steering plate.

On top of that, if you are prone to having pipes jump out at you... you'd want aluminum rear hubs, an aluminum RF hanger, and possibly a CF rear shock tower. Other than that, nothing else is really necessary.

Some "good to have items" are the CF front tower, battery thumb screws, the SUMO rear inner camber link brace (if you run spacers under your rear camber links... otherwise, the screw is long enough to handle some pretty hard hits), locking rear hexes.

Some "nice to have items" are Lunsford ball cups (or equivalent), TD or Exotek chassis weight, anything else blingy and orange.

As far as the ball cups go, you don't NEED anything but the kit ones. Build them right (tap them and/or make sure they are smooth and you can twist them with only a little force with your hands), don't ever pop them off when working on the vehicle, if one does pop off - replace it (should do that with any vehicle).
Thanks for the helpful reply!

I did order a RTR in blue. Upon advice here, I picked up some spares, but not all that you've mentioned. Would it be advisable to upgrade to the harder composite B type chassis?
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