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Old 08-26-2013, 01:24 PM   #11986
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Maybe this video explains it better. As you can see when i roll the car and the suspension is fully compressed the car bumps up and down due to the driveshafts not moving enough.
I get you now. So when it's vertical, it works cause the dogbone angles up and nothing blocks it. When it's horizontal, the dogbone must be hitting the top of the outdrive?

I've never tried rolling at full compression though. I'll check in a few hours.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:31 PM   #11987
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Yeah, thats how it is. Thanks for helping out mate.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:09 PM   #11988
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Are their any companies out their that make a mid motor body that needs no cutting to fit the mm conversion.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:50 PM   #11989
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Yeah, thats how it is. Thanks for helping out mate.
My buggy definitely doesn't have this problem. Can you verify the driveshafts are 65mm? The out drives are pretty close to flush with the camber mounting tabs. I wonder if you have the longer out drives meant for the SC. Did you build it yourself?

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Are their any companies out their that make a mid motor body that needs no cutting to fit the mm conversion.
I highly doubt it. Given the position of the motor plate, it'd need a pretty high clearance.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:23 AM   #11990
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Just built it from a kit.
I'll check on that tonight, maybe it is after all about the diff tightness so that the bolt head and nut are blocking the way.

EDIT: The driveshafts are 65mm.

Last edited by jaank; 08-27-2013 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:15 AM   #11991
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Are their any companies out their that make a mid motor body that needs no cutting to fit the mm conversion.
Google image it I found a few already but they do need cutting except the td body with the cowlings, before I had proper tools I uses a razor blade to cut body's then scrape along the edge to get rid of the sharpness I'm sure you could find one on eBay or something that is already cut
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:24 AM   #11992
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Just built it from a kit.
I'll check on that tonight, maybe it is after all about the diff tightness so that the bolt head and nut are blocking the way.

EDIT: The driveshafts are 65mm.
Hmmmm. I just don't see how this is possible. Building from a kit gives you 65mm and the right driveshafts. Thought you may have bought used. If it was a diff problem, I can't see it happening on both sides.

Take a bunch of pics and post them.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:26 AM   #11993
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Why would you not want to cut it out? Worst case get a pair of toe nail sissors as they are usually sharp and tough and use them.

I don't think anyone unless purchased privately would want to cut it out for you as we don't all follow the lines (most probably do) when cutting to suit the buggy we have
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:30 AM   #11994
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Why would you not want to cut it out? Worst case get a pair of toe nail sissors as they are usually sharp and tough and use them.

I don't think anyone unless purchased privately would want to cut it out for you as we don't all follow the lines (most probably do) when cutting to suit the buggy we have
I think the intent is to use the same body for RM and MM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:15 AM   #11995
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Hmmmm. I just don't see how this is possible. Building from a kit gives you 65mm and the right driveshafts. Thought you may have bought used. If it was a diff problem, I can't see it happening on both sides.

Take a bunch of pics and post them.
Problem solved. I built the car based on manual but now with some common sense I rebuilt the drive shafts and done. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:59 AM   #11996
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Nice! Makes sense. Download the latest manual for updates.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:26 PM   #11997
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Problem solved. I built the car based on manual but now with some common sense I rebuilt the drive shafts and done. Thanks.
My guess is you build the CVD wrong the first time, with the pin in the wrong way in the CVD barrel. I've seen this done before and let me tell you that isn't as per manual...
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:51 PM   #11998
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Thumbs up RDRP +11mm Chassis DEX210

Just listed a NEW RDRP +11mm Chassis in the for sale forum.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:12 PM   #11999
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Has anyone tried MM4 motor config on low traction clay type tracks? How is it different from rm3? I am considering to swap to mm4 due to the fact that i keep spinning out on hairpin turns. I personally love sensitive steering so i tend to oversteer and cos it to spin. Will changing to MM4 help me? Thanks in advance(:
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:33 AM   #12000
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Has anyone tried MM4 motor config on low traction clay type tracks? How is it different from rm3? I am considering to swap to mm4 due to the fact that i keep spinning out on hairpin turns. I personally love sensitive steering so i tend to oversteer and cos it to spin. Will changing to MM4 help me? Thanks in advance(:
It would certainly help you recover easily to get out of a spin. I run MM4 and really enjoy how must steering it has. But it takes some getting use to. Give it a try.
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