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Old 08-23-2013, 01:37 AM   #11956
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The mixed reviews I saw were in this thread. I cant quote you the post #'s but they're in here. Not saying they're bad, I have no first hand experience. I just went off a few comments and decided to stick with the Durango unit. If it's good enough for Durango, it's good enough for me
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:25 AM   #11957
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Originally Posted by Oasis View Post
I did a search on this thread and found nothing negative on the RDRP plate..I have however seen the carbon fiber rack crack..I have one on my dex210 and it seems to work fine..I haven't had any problems with mine..I have tried a few different racks. I didn't care much for the zero caster inserts. .made my buggy way to twitchy for me..
I was about to order a few 0 caster inserts. Maybe I'll start with one. As long as it works for you, great! To be honest, I don't see a whole lot of benefit on any of them over the TD aluminum rack.

Here's one of them:
Durango DEX210 Thread

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Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
So, it looks like that rack can be installed a couple different ways. Any one try it?

whats funny too is that rack isnt even on thier own websight. http://www.revolution-rc.com/our-products.html
Do you mean flip the rack? The ball stud would be really far forward. Can't imagine that goes well.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:25 AM   #11958
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine View Post
anyone else besides me have problems getting all the wiring tucked away on a MM setup? I cannot run a fan on my ESC because it pushes the body up on that side, and just the wires push it up a little (cured with velcro on the sides of the chassis)
I have the same problem on my new 210 - I think it's because I've connected the wires to the ESC in a "stood up" position i.e. vertical to the soldering posts, also my ESC is mounted at 90degrees to the picture below with the soldering posts facing the motor. Having had a look at what's making contact with the shell it certainly seems to be the cause, not the fan in my case (this is with a Reventon Pro). I'm going to try and lay the wiring flat at 90 degrees to the connection posts a little like this:

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which I reckon should cure the problem for me, maybe you're the same?
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:28 AM   #11959
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Hi guys

I've just got a DEX210 RTR, running it with a 4300mAh NiMH but the car seems to go into 'limp' mode fairly often. It'll stop but the motor will still run very slowly to get back to you, if I turn it off and on again it'll run like normal for a bit.

I checked it after it did it and the orange light wasnt flashing (indicating overheating according to the manual) the battery kept running for ages after it first did it, but I dont know the history of the battery (got given it), although it appears to charge fine and run for a good duration.

Any ideas what the problem is?
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #11960
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Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
Hi guys

I've just got a DEX210 RTR, running it with a 4300mAh NiMH but the car seems to go into 'limp' mode fairly often. It'll stop but the motor will still run very slowly to get back to you, if I turn it off and on again it'll run like normal for a bit.

I checked it after it did it and the orange light wasnt flashing (indicating overheating according to the manual) the battery kept running for ages after it first did it, but I dont know the history of the battery (got given it), although it appears to charge fine and run for a good duration.

Any ideas what the problem is?
sounds like Lipo cutoff. i dont have the stock ESC so im not sure if it lets you disable cutoff or not
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:02 AM   #11961
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Originally Posted by godofcable View Post
sounds like Lipo cutoff. i dont have the stock ESC so im not sure if it lets you disable cutoff or not
As far as I'm aware you cannot adjust that on the stock ESC, I checked the voltage (disconnected) with a multimeter and the battery still had 7.6v (from the 8.4v from fully charged) unless it drops massively when run? The manual says its meant to auto detect the battery type, so I assume it wouldnt cut off.

One thing I can say, its a beast! I gave up RC in about 1996 (Losi XX) and this thing is rapid.
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:33 PM   #11962
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Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
As far as I'm aware you cannot adjust that on the stock ESC, I checked the voltage (disconnected) with a multimeter and the battery still had 7.6v (from the 8.4v from fully charged) unless it drops massively when run? The manual says its meant to auto detect the battery type, so I assume it wouldnt cut off.

One thing I can say, its a beast! I gave up RC in about 1996 (Losi XX) and this thing is rapid.
That speedo has lipo cut off and when it auto detects your battery it checking volt for 1 or 2 cell. not if its lipo or nmh. also if your battery is at 7.6v pulling power out will drop the volts to around 6v and the cut off is set to 6.6v
i have speedpassion in all my cars.
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:54 PM   #11963
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Originally Posted by Tunatsol View Post
That speedo has lipo cut off and when it auto detects your battery it checking volt for 1 or 2 cell. not if its lipo or nmh. also if your battery is at 7.6v pulling power out will drop the volts to around 6v and the cut off is set to 6.6v
i have speedpassion in all my cars.
Thanks, would you say its a problem with the battery or just me being a little too throttle happy, I was just playing around in an carpark with lots of loose gravel but never flat out for longer than a few seconds.
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:19 PM   #11964
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Do you mean flip the rack? The ball stud would be really far forward. Can't imagine that goes well.
yep, I actully was looking for others because thats how I run it on my sct. Tons af steering and very aggresive. I have two other brand buggys and they are all way foward. I think the way you have it would make the car feel very forgiving and neutral in steering response. And its not really super far foward by how they made it. Just to bad there's no info from the maker.
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:44 PM   #11965
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Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
Thanks, would you say its a problem with the battery or just me being a little too throttle happy, I was just playing around in an carpark with lots of loose gravel but never flat out for longer than a few seconds.
If you're running NiMH vice LiPo, the cutoff will engage earlier than necessary. Keep in mind that your batteries are putting out about 7.2v instead of 8.4 like a LiPo would be. The cutoff is ending your playtime prematurely because of the battery type. If you can disable the cutoff, you can run until the battery dumps, if not, you wont get much runtime out of it. One would think the ESC would change the cutoff after detecting battery type though.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:59 PM   #11966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
yep, I actully was looking for others because thats how I run it on my sct. Tons af steering and very aggresive. I have two other brand buggys and they are all way foward. I think the way you have it would make the car feel very forgiving and neutral in steering response. And its not really super far foward by how they made it. Just to bad there's no info from the maker.
They have a little bit of info on their facebook page https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...levant_count=1
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:33 AM   #11967
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They have a little bit of info on their facebook page https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...levant_count=1
Thanks, so they do run it in the forward position. I thought so.

"A short note about the new R2 Steering Plate: Watch the correct position of the Steering Plate. The Pivot Balls must be placed at the front of the Steering Plate. The number of shims on the steering block under the pivot ball depends your caster and your general set-up. Start with zero shims for 25 caster. If you use more caster, the steering block arm rotates downwards and you need to add shims."
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:29 PM   #11968
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just got back from the track for the first time, running MM4, track was damp clay. when I first started the slipper was too tight and it just wanted to swap ends no matter what I did. I added 1 deg toe in per side in the back, moved the shock mounts out one hole on the a-arms and moved the wheelbase back 2 spacers worth, seemed to make it at least driveable, but if I even thought about stabbing the throttle mid corner I would just spin.

Im thinking I might need to swap to the RM setup unless anyone has some setup tips.

I love the way it jumps and handles sweepers on the MM4 setup though.
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:10 PM   #11969
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Any ideas why the suspension doesnt fully compress when the diff outdrives are like - not like I on a brand new car?
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:04 AM   #11970
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine View Post
just got back from the track for the first time, running MM4, track was damp clay. when I first started the slipper was too tight and it just wanted to swap ends no matter what I did. I added 1 deg toe in per side in the back, moved the shock mounts out one hole on the a-arms and moved the wheelbase back 2 spacers worth, seemed to make it at least driveable, but if I even thought about stabbing the throttle mid corner I would just spin.

Im thinking I might need to swap to the RM setup unless anyone has some setup tips.

I love the way it jumps and handles sweepers on the MM4 setup though.
What is your setup?

I just raced my MM4 setup for the first time yesterday on what is essentially beach sand. VERY loose and difficult to drive on especially with a MM car. I am new to 2wd 1/10 scale, I've been driving 1/8 scale and 4x4SC for a few years so my experience and skill with this kind of car is limited. I found that with a MM setup you basically never want to "stab" the throttle. You can enter corners faster though and when you're in the corner you use the throttle to maintain that speed, then roll on the throttle at the very exit of the corner when you're pointing in the direction you want to go. I worked to maintain a higher average speed without ever getting too aggressive with the trigger and it was working pretty well. I qualified 10th in the A-main and finished 6th. I was passing RM cars in the corners like crazy. There was one 180 corner that I had a ton of trouble with. It was extremely dry soft sand at the exit and since you had to slow down so much in the turn I had a tendency to get on it too much and fishtail or spin losing a lot of ground to other drivers. I imagine if I could have kept it together there I would have finished a few places better.

I ran the full 4.5 of rear toe, shocks mounted to the rear. I also find that running a higher inner camber link position on the rear helps with weight transfer keeping the rear a little more planted in corners. Are you running a shorty or full sized pack?
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