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Old 08-09-2013, 03:44 PM   #11791
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I put metal washers on the top of the shock towers to take the beating, and replace them when they wear out. I had to move weight to the rear running mm3 to get a good jump. Same problem with my ST210. They would nose dive with fwd weight.
Why are you running MM3? thats why its jumping nose down MM4 will give you more rear grip and jump better!
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Old 08-09-2013, 04:38 PM   #11792
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do u have the oil diff, or anyone??
Ball diff STOCK for the win dude
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Old 08-09-2013, 04:57 PM   #11793
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Default buggy

Last question. Is there s new dex210 buggy comming out??
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:15 PM   #11794
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Yes, first quarter of 2014
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:41 PM   #11795
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Rcjunky1,

Any chance you making a aluminum RR hanger that works with a type B chassis? Preferably -2 mm.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:42 PM   #11796
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Yes, first quarter of 2014
Where did you see this? Radically new or just updates?
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:04 PM   #11797
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I have a ball stud that is binding against a ball cup to the point where one of the a arms will literally stay wherever you put it. Can I sand this with some fine grit sand paper to free it up or is there a better method?
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:41 AM   #11798
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I have a ball stud that is binding against a ball cup to the point where one of the a arms will literally stay wherever you put it. Can I sand this with some fine grit sand paper to free it up or is there a better method?
Have u screwed ur tie rod in to far???? I have done that same thing it sucks. I ended up installing a new end.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:47 AM   #11799
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Have u screwed ur tie rod in to far???? I have done that same thing it sucks. I ended up installing a new end.
No it's definitely the ball stud. I removed the stud and used both ends of the tie rod end and it was still heavily binding.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:12 AM   #11800
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Sorry, wrong thread.

Last edited by H0LESH0T; 08-11-2013 at 12:12 AM. Reason: Thought I was in DESC210 Thread
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:40 AM   #11801
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Decided to try something a little different And yes, there is just enough room to fit a full sized pack in there, so I'm ROAR legal I haven't had it on the scales yet to check out my f/r distribution, but I'm sure it's better than the ~63% rear I measured in standard mm configuration. It certainly drove better like this. Inspiration for this comes from these guys and xfactory.


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Old 08-11-2013, 06:55 AM   #11802
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Decided to try something a little different And yes, there is just enough room to fit a full sized pack in there, so I'm ROAR legal I haven't had it on the scales yet to check out my f/r distribution, but I'm sure it's better than the ~63% rear I measured in standard mm configuration. It certainly drove better like this. Inspiration for this comes from these guys and xfactory.
Very interesting. Are you running any of the weights that hang off of the rear of the diff? I have the RDRP 50G weight back there and I'm wondering of this config would give me even more rear traction or if it would be too much rearward bias. Any foreseeable issues with the removal of the vertical sections of the chassis?
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:01 AM   #11803
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Very interesting. Are you running any of the weights that hang off of the rear of the diff? I have the RDRP 50G weight back there and I'm wondering of this config would give me even more rear traction or if it would be too much rearward bias. Any foreseeable issues with the removal of the vertical sections of the chassis?
I do not have any of the rear hanging weights, but you can see in the picture I have some lead weights shoo goo'd to the top of the tranny. I don't like them being that high, but it's the only place I can really get any weight directly above the rear axle line. In total, I have 49g of weight added to the rear of the car (3 7g weights between the motor and tranny case and 2 on top of the tranny on both sides of the tower).

The last time I took the car to the scales, I had to add 84g of weight to get the rear up to 65%. It will be interesting to see how this checks out. According to the guys across the pond in the oople thread I linked to, they have 65% rear with the side by side saddles. I would think with a shorty turned sideways that should get more weight off the front and onto the rear.

I hadn't thought too much about the effects of removing the vertical sections of the chassis. I raced it yesterday like that and despite my best (or worst ) efforts, the chassis didn't snap. The next step will be to figure out how to make a better battery strap. The guys at oople actually seem to make up for cutting the vertical section with their battery straps bridging the gap of what they removed.
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #11804
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Rcjunky1,

Any chance you making a aluminum RR hanger that works with a type B chassis? Preferably -2 mm.


Probably not yet. The alloy chassis is the current project and needs to be done. I was very close to modifying the stock block but that can't be done with the new one.

The dex210 will have a few tweaks, the dex410v4 will have less changed so it'll be out before the 210.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:03 AM   #11805
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Rcjunky1,

Any chance you making a aluminum RR hanger that works with a type B chassis? Preferably -2 mm.
Like this one?

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330599

Last edited by TRF415boy; 08-11-2013 at 11:15 AM.
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