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Old 08-05-2013, 11:11 AM   #11776
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Thanks for that!
Not a problem.
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:16 AM   #11777
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new body and paint


Spaz stix holographic
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:06 PM   #11778
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Does anyone have links or part numbers for spacers or washers in different colors? I'd like to buy some Durango gold as well as red washers for bump steer placement, etc.
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:00 PM   #11779
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Does anyone have links or part numbers for spacers or washers in different colors? I'd like to buy some Durango gold as well as red washers for bump steer placement, etc.
I see. They're called spacers. TD ones on tower hobbies.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:29 AM   #11780
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the stock chassis on the buggy, does it not work??? I got to buy the plastic chassis?? what else has to be change to be able to race this buggy???
and is there a new buggy on the way??
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:37 AM   #11781
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the stock chassis on the buggy, does it not work??? I got to buy the plastic chassis?? what else has to be change to be able to race this buggy???
and is there a new buggy on the way??
The stock chassis does work, but the extended (+8mm) chassis makes the car easier to drive. The stock chassis does seem to work better on tighter layouts.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:53 AM   #11782
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The stock chassis does work, but the extended (+8mm) chassis makes the car easier to drive. The stock chassis does seem to work better on tighter layouts.
can I race the buggy out of the box or do I need hop-ups??
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #11783
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can I race the buggy out of the box or do I need hop-ups??
Besides the usual stuff (pinions, spurs and springs), you can race it out of the box. There are however a few recommended upgrades:
* Aluminum rear hubs
* Gearbox brace from Sumo Racing
* CF rear shock tower

Both those upgrades would make the car more durable.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:11 PM   #11784
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In my opinion, the only needed upgrades are a good steering rack and a cf rear tower.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:38 PM   #11785
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I put metal washers on the top of the shock towers to take the beating, and replace them when they wear out. I had to move weight to the rear running mm3 to get a good jump. Same problem with my ST210. They would nose dive with fwd weight.
First things I'd look at for your nose down issue is throttle position at launch and ride height (followed by maybe rear spring rate).
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:03 PM   #11786
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what about rims??? do any other rims off other buggys fit or just Durango??
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:18 PM   #11787
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what about rims??? do any other rims off other buggys fit or just Durango??
Durango wheels and DE racing wheels for the dex210 are the only wheels that will fit without mods.
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:24 PM   #11788
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Durango wheels and DE racing wheels for the dex210 are the only wheels that will fit without mods.
sounds good to me I don't like wheel mods!!
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:45 PM   #11789
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77 View Post
the stock chassis on the buggy, does it not work??? I got to buy the plastic chassis?? what else has to be change to be able to race this buggy???
and is there a new buggy on the way??
I love reading these. Here deal dude everyone on here has an opinion which they are entitled to. Just drive it out of the box. I run mine on a huge 1/8 scale track. I prefer the stock chassis turns like butter and handles great. Deffinately flip the rear arms and mount the shocks behind the tower. I also found that a shorter wheelbase is best at my big track. Mainly enjoy it before you dump another 200 into it.
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:03 PM   #11790
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I love reading these. Here deal dude everyone on here has an opinion which they are entitled to. Just drive it out of the box. I run mine on a huge 1/8 scale track. I prefer the stock chassis turns like butter and handles great. Deffinately flip the rear arms and mount the shocks behind the tower. I also found that a shorter wheelbase is best at my big track. Mainly enjoy it before you dump another 200 into it.
do u have the oil diff, or anyone??
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