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Old 07-24-2013, 12:00 AM   #11716
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Hello All,

Proud owner of a new DEX210 and will be running Stock 2wd (17.5 Blinky ESC)

Currently building the kit I am adding the TD Aluminium ackerman & some TD shock covers.

Any other parts I should look into while I am building the Kit (common failure parts)?

I race on a outside dirt track that has a well prepped surface that can blue grove over the race day. I was going to run RM3 but have been looking at MM4 with the rear shocks mounted behind the tower, would this give enough traction on a hard packed blue groove track?
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:03 AM   #11717
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Originally Posted by Pittster View Post
Hello All,

Proud owner of a new DEX210 and will be running Stock 2wd (17.5 Blinky ESC)

Currently building the kit I am adding the TD Aluminium ackerman & some TD shock covers.

Any other parts I should look into while I am building the Kit (common failure parts)?

I race on a outside dirt track that has a well prepped surface that can blue grove over the race day. I was going to run RM3 but have been looking at MM4 with the rear shocks mounted behind the tower, would this give enough traction on a hard packed blue groove track?
I don't know about blue groove, but clay in general can be made to work just fine with MM4. I run MM4 and use the RDRP suspension mounts to add a little weight right behind the motor.

I also hear that mounting the shocks behind the tower helps. I'm going to try that next time at the track to see if I can feel the difference.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #11718
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Originally Posted by durangoman View Post
Any of you guys try a shock tower like this one:
dont like that tower. it changes the ballstud mounting to vertical instead of horizontal and screws the whole front end geometry up. try a tresrey, cream, exotek or strc tower up front.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:51 PM   #11719
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I like the shocks in the rear. I added a lead slab(110 grams) below my battery and it seems to have settled it down.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:35 PM   #11720
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Anyone try the RDRP V2 Ackerman plate? I am using Losi bal studs and Kyosho ball cups. I have 1mm under the ball studs on the ackerman plate and 2mm (or was it 2.5) under the ball studs on the steering hubs and I still have bump steer.

The RDRP description says that the V2 plate is supposed to eliminate bump steer. Thoughts?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Steering-Plate
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:36 PM   #11721
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I like the shocks in the rear. I added a lead slab(110 grams) below my battery and it seems to have settled it down.
dude thats a lotta weight added to tame the car down.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:41 PM   #11722
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Anyone try the RDRP V2 Ackerman plate? I am using Losi bal studs and Kyosho ball cups. I have 1mm under the ball studs on the ackerman plate and 2mm (or was it 2.5) under the ball studs on the steering hubs and I still have bump steer.

The RDRP description says that the V2 plate is supposed to eliminate bump steer. Thoughts?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Steering-Plate

you shouldnt need 1mm under ball stud on ackerman. if you took that out then technically u would need less under the steering knuckle, however depending on caster u might need more under steering knuckle regardless. i would take the 1mm spacer under ackerman ballstud. at 25 degrees caster, i need 4mm under steering knuckle.

tried that rdrp steering plate and went back to tresrey.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:59 PM   #11723
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
dude thats a lotta weight added to tame the car down.
Depends... 100 grams is about the difference between a shorty and a full pack. If he's running a shorty then adding 110g isn't too bad.

Has anyone tried modifying their car to run the battery transverse in mid motor configuration? I've been thinking that might be something worth trying to get more weight on the rear without adding weight.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #11724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenng View Post
you shouldnt need 1mm under ball stud on ackerman. if you took that out then technically u would need less under the steering knuckle, however depending on caster u might need more under steering knuckle regardless. i would take the 1mm spacer under ackerman ballstud. at 25 degrees caster, i need 4mm under steering knuckle.

tried that rdrp steering plate and went back to tresrey.
I'll give that a try thanks.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:53 PM   #11725
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Going to be switching to ae cups studs and turnbuckles. Anybody know the lengths or part numbers?
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:33 PM   #11726
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I'll give that a try thanks.
i meant to say take out the 1mm under ackerman ballstud
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:39 PM   #11727
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
i meant to say take out the 1mm under ackerman ballstud
OK. Yeah, I read it the way you meant to write it!

I'll take apart the front end again this weekend and give it a try.
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:34 AM   #11728
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If i'm not mistaken losi ball studs are 1mm taller then the stock ball studs/lunsford. So if you mounted the steering plate below the steering arms, with it raised 1mm, you will only need 1mm on the inner and outer ball studs to eliminate the bumpsteer. Assuming you are running 30 caster.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:57 AM   #11729
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i am finding that with my RSDP chassis, it appears to be flat, until i attach the side pods and other front end then rear end to the car, it gets worse each time, but it appears to bow up in the middle (as if the front and rear are 1mm+ lower than the centre of the car..

Does anybody know where i should be looking to fix this because I'm well confused!


Looking at it closer, it looks like the screws for the side pods don't line up properly with the chassis holes. I attached the front with the pluss 11 RD piece (on top) and looking underneath all the holes look to far back so when i tighten these up, it makes the chassis warp in order to align the holes, am I alone with the problem?

Thanks!

Last edited by cyclone; 07-25-2013 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:23 PM   #11730
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i am finding that with my RSDP chassis, it appears to be flat, until i attach the side pods and other front end then rear end to the car, it gets worse each time, but it appears to bow up in the middle (as if the front and rear are 1mm+ lower than the centre of the car..

Does anybody know where i should be looking to fix this because I'm well confused!

Thanks
Try removing the screws from the extension piece- it should slide out with minimal friction. If it's tight, file the side pods and servo bulkhead until you get a nice fit. Had the same thing on a +8 chassis.
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