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Old 10-25-2011, 07:23 AM   #1156
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This won't help with the ballcups popping off (I know many have had issues, but we never have, even with the old ones), but I had the same adjusting issue when I built the 210. I took an 1/8 drill bit and bored the end of the ballcup roughly 3/16 deep to allow the shank of the link to not bind when it goes into the cup. You could also just shorten the ballcups by the same amount. As with any camber link assembly, use some type of lubricant- beeswax, chap stick, or black grease on the threads. I always use a drill to work the link in and out of the cups a few times before I assemble them for good.
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:30 AM   #1157
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the plastic is too soft. The original ballcups would pop off when you tried adjusting the turnbuckle. The HD one's at least stay on when you're adjusting the turnbuckle but they still pop off way too easy IMO. I've converted all my previous durango vehicles over to Losi cups with standard ball ends and haven't had one problem.
So you use the 22 ballcups and ballstuds?
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:43 AM   #1158
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Anyone know what the wheelbase is?
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:48 AM   #1159
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So you use the 22 ballcups and ballstuds?
They're losi ballcups that I stocked up on awhile ago, before the 22 came out. I use TC5 ballstuds because they have metric threads
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:53 AM   #1160
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In theory, and correct me if I am wrong, a 3 gear rear has the motor spin up the usual way and when you punch it, the back of the car squats, taking weight off of the front wheels.

With the 4 gear, your motor is spinning the opposite direction and while the car may still squat under acceleration, it is not as much. So you have more weight on the front tires. (Motor spins toward the front/up instead of the towards the back/ground, essentially "lifting" the back of the car instead of forcing it down)
You have it 180 degrees backwards.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:15 AM   #1161
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You have it 180 degrees backwards.
ok... The motor rotation is right in my theory and I was assuming that the rotational force of the motor was the gain in traction. So what is the traction/handling gain from in the RM4 setup?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:18 AM   #1162
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In RM4 the motor and diff spin the same direction. In theory this places a lot of down force on the rear tires.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:24 AM   #1163
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ok... The motor rotation is right in my theory and I was assuming that the rotational force of the motor was the gain in traction. So what is the traction/handling gain from in the RM4 setup?
In a 3 gear config, the motor spins backwards. When the motor spins backwards, it makes the car attached to it spin the opposite direction, which is forward. forward rotation of the chassis means more pressure on the front tires, and less on the rear

In a 4 gear config, the opposite happens. The motor spins forward, which makes the chassis rotate backwards, which means less pressure on the front tires, and more on the rear tires.

So in both configs the car squats on-throttle, but there is a slight pressure bias towards the front tires in 3 gear, and a slight bias towards the rear tires with the 4 gear.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:29 AM   #1164
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OK, so if I am looking for more steering, I should stick to the RM3 setup?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:34 AM   #1165
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Yes more or less. I've found I can get all the steering I need in both configurations so far.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #1166
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Yes more or less. I've found I can get all the steering I need in both configurations so far.
So the new process in set up for a new track would be to determine tires, the motor config, then fine tuning suspension?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:50 AM   #1167
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Yes more or less. I've found I can get all the steering I need in both configurations so far.
Cool - Thanks. Nixing my plans for a 4 gear swap tonight. Will work on other setups for a gain in steering instead.

Randy, What is your front shock length (droop)? Your setup sheet is missing that.

Edit - To be more clear, I am looking to remove the on power push that I have in my setup. I removed a good bit of it, but still suffering a bit.

Last edited by sparkwraps; 10-25-2011 at 09:00 AM.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:55 AM   #1168
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Its a good day fellas! I just got my kit today and hopfully will be starting the build tonight. Has any thought about using RPM ballcups? I never had a issue with them on my B44. I'm thinking I should just get new ones before I start the build. I just want to make sure I get something that will work.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:58 AM   #1169
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Anybody tried the mid config out yet. At Smac there were several very succesful X-factory rides last season. But these are not the drivers who have decided to try the 210!
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:02 AM   #1170
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-03-2012 at 03:22 PM.
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