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Old 07-15-2013, 06:49 AM   #11641
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I figured that would be the answer, just wondering if we had any other options.

Brian
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:23 AM   #11642
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I figured that would be the answer, just wondering if we had any other options.

Brian
I wish there was another option. I just finished my new +8 instal and I was pretty disappointed with the body. I ended up trimming quite a bit extra off of the front to get it to fit the chassis properly. Plus, TD bodies just don't have as much room towards the rear of the chassis. Also, the TD +8 body doesn't come with a wing, or the extra cowlings. Other than that, I haven't tried out the new chassis yet, but I'm pretty psyched for this weekend.

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Old 07-15-2013, 07:43 AM   #11643
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Just went back to the standard alloy chassis. Personal best is 29.15 on our track and the track record is 28.55 ( with a B4.1) But my laps are more consistent. 9-29 sek rounds and 14-30 sek rounds in my best run last day at the track. Just couldnt get enough speed through turns with the +8 chassis.
Cant wait til the rain stops.. !
Btw, the car weights 1730g with a chortpack (+8mm chassis) Much ?
My sons TRF201 weights 1550g with a fullsize stickpack.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:18 PM   #11644
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Hi guys, I have losi ball cups

Could somebody tell me which tc5 ball studs i need and how many of each long and short I need, i think they are all 10mm?

And if i fit (which long or short) to camber and steering, does the geometry stay the same as durango ball studs and cups, without adding or removing washers?

thanks!

Last edited by cyclone; 07-15-2013 at 02:24 PM. Reason: better question.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:39 PM   #11645
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I solved the ball cup issue with Associated ball studs and RPM cups.. Zero issues since..
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:02 PM   #11646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPERLOOPER View Post
I figured that would be the answer, just wondering if we had any other options.

Brian
There are shells available in the UK, designed by penguin. Haven't tried them out myself but they seem appreciated from what I've read.

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/haskins2004/m.html

They have a couple of options for the +8, reasonably priced too.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #11647
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Questions?? servo horn?

What aluminum servo horn seems best? Ive heard guys are running the losi 22 horn but would prefer something different.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:08 PM   #11648
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What aluminum servo horn seems best? Ive heard guys are running the losi 22 horn but would prefer something different.
Im using a 3racing horn in Tresrey red
Perfect with Associated balls and Jconsepts ballcups
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:35 PM   #11649
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
Btw, the car weights 1730g with a shortpack (+8mm chassis) Much ?
My sons TRF201 weights 1550g with a fullsize stickpack.
I too am curious about what weight other people are at. I'm running the +8 aluminum chassis, low pro servo, and Venom 3800 shorty. 1574grams race ready. I know I could shave another 10 grams pretty easily, but haven't had to yet. Based on the few weights I've seen others post, I am lighter than most.

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Old 07-15-2013, 06:47 PM   #11650
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On the standard chassis, mine measured 1634g and that was with 28g of lead weights on the back. haven't measured the new dimec yet and still have the 28g of weights.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:36 PM   #11651
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mine is running 1720 but I don't have shorty packs. +8 carbon towers, lunsford tie rods, stock body.

my sons b4.1 is 1468 both are with full packs.

I just got my RDP +11 but haven't built it up yet. will get it weighed as soon as I transfer it all over.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:52 PM   #11652
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In stock racing, I can see trying to save weight to a point but getting right on the minimum weight rarely leads to the best handling vehicles. I think we get too wrapped around the axle with weight sometimes. I havent run the 210 yet but my B4.1 Worlds needed a significant amount of weight to get it where I wanted it (and I dropped the shorty pack in favor of fairly heavy standard pack).
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:15 PM   #11653
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Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
In stock racing, I can see trying to save weight to a point but getting right on the minimum weight rarely leads to the best handling vehicles. I think we get too wrapped around the axle with weight sometimes. I havent run the 210 yet but my B4.1 Worlds needed a significant amount of weight to get it where I wanted it (and I dropped the shorty pack in favor of fairly heavy standard pack).
+1, I totally agree. Although I was still curious where other guys were at weight wise once their car is handling well. Wasn't implying that lighter is better. I think the only items I have intentionally used due to a weight savings is the low pro servo and shorty. I already had the servo. When I go outdoor, I use a full stick.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:18 PM   #11654
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Going to be ordering new rings and balls for my diff. What have you guys found to be the best out there? Also what is the proper build and break in procedure? I rebuilt mine and tightened the diff until i couldn't move the gear and it was too loose. i then read about how the t nut should be 1 mm from bottomed out. i tightened it up till it was there and the diff was tight and notchy???
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #11655
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Going to be ordering new rings and balls for my diff. What have you guys found to be the best out there? Also what is the proper build and break in procedure? I rebuilt mine and tightened the diff until i couldn't move the gear and it was too loose. i then read about how the t nut should be 1 mm from bottomed out. i tightened it up till it was there and the diff was tight and notchy???
B-Fast sanded diff rings with carbide balls. Then follow the diff build video on team Durango's site. It's a you tube video.
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