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Old 07-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #11626
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Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
This can happen when the thrust being goes out. Check the nut and bolt that holds the assembly together as well.
New thrust bearings and nut and bolt. I am lost lol.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:57 PM   #11627
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New thrust bearings and nut and bolt. I am lost lol.
Are you sure the thrust washers are oriented properly? The one with the smaller ID goes to the outside against the diff bolt.

Only other thing I can think of is there may be a burr on the diff bolt (really shouldn't be, but it's possible) that is causing the bolt to tighten.
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:27 AM   #11628
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Are you sure the thrust washers are oriented properly? The one with the smaller ID goes to the outside against the diff bolt.

Only other thing I can think of is there may be a burr on the diff bolt (really shouldn't be, but it's possible) that is causing the bolt to tighten.
Johnny I thought the thrust washer had a different OD.. Either way, the smaller is closest to the head of the bolt.

The Exotek chassis, I like the design. But since switching to the Tresrey +10 chassis my car is awesome.

We also have Tresrey castor blocks, lrc blocks, & lower shock spring cups coming.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:48 PM   #11629
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia View Post
Johnny I thought the thrust washer had a different OD.. Either way, the smaller is closest to the head of the bolt.

The Exotek chassis, I like the design. But since switching to the Tresrey +10 chassis my car is awesome.

We also have Tresrey castor blocks, lrc blocks, & lower shock spring cups coming.
When you went to the +10 chassis wouldn't it make the car more numb feeling especially on clay? I can see longer on carpet to help mellow it out some but I tried +10 type chassis on my Tamiya and my B4.1 and both handled worse on the medium to high bite clay tracks.

I have run the stock chassis on clay and also a fairly rough track with medium bite and it felt very smooth and easy to drive. I would like to mess around with moving the front axles to 3 or 2 as I'm in the stock postion of back 4mm for my steering blocks. Interested to see how the car acts once I the front axles closer to inline.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:59 PM   #11630
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When you went to the +10 chassis wouldn't it make the car more numb feeling especially on clay? I can see longer on carpet to help mellow it out some but I tried +10 type chassis on my Tamiya and my B4.1 and both handled worse on the medium to high bite clay tracks.

I have run the stock chassis on clay and also a fairly rough track with medium bite and it felt very smooth and easy to drive. I would like to mess around with moving the front axles to 3 or 2 as I'm in the stock postion of back 4mm for my steering blocks. Interested to see how the car acts once I the front axles closer to inline.
Brian,
On the DEX210 the longer chassis benefits handling characteristics. I run on both clay and dirt. I think lrc blocks are a missing link in my setup.
Also with the 12mm hex conversion on my front axles I am forced to run full trailing front wheels. Also this takes the adjustment away, & the sensitivity making the car more predictable.
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:50 PM   #11631
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any one else finding the standard TD diff balls flat spot quickly ?

I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.

I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.

is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?

JK
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:25 PM   #11632
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Originally Posted by Jarred King View Post
any one else finding the standard TD diff balls flat spot quickly ?

I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.

I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.

is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?

JK
Had the same problem! Went through 3 new diffs, picked up a B-fast pro rebuild kit and never looked back. Great products!!
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:33 AM   #11633
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Originally Posted by Jarred King View Post
any one else finding the standard TD diff balls flat spot quickly ?

I built a brand new diff, started tuning in the slipper on the bench doing it the old way where u hold both wheels and punch the throttle untill front wheels lift 2 inchs and diff slipped for 0.5 a second and now its f****d. feels gritty and doesnt turn well.

I then built another new one and after 2 runs on dirt its gritty and feels terrible.

is there a setting to go off, like lock diff and loosen 1/8 of a turn or something?

JK
You're just leaving them too loose. When I build the diffs, I tighten the diff 1/4 turn at a tight once it starts to get snug. After each quarter turn, I rotate the diff by hand a few times until I get it close to fully tightened. I'll then drop it in the car and hold one wheel and give it throttle for about 30 seconds, switch to the other tire and do the same. It will usually loosen up a fair amount after this so I'll repeat the procedure after tightening it up and repeat the process for about 1 minute on each side. Recheck and readjust and toss it on the track. Durango is supposed to have a good video on building the diff but I havent checked it out yet.

If the diff slips at all, it's toast and not worth racing.
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:10 AM   #11634
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[QUOTE=madweazl;

If the diff slips at all, it's toast and not worth racing.[/QUOTE]

wow, if it slips once throw in bin lol. other brands arent like this. balls must be to soft. ran mine today with new diff didnt slip still feels good.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:36 AM   #11635
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wow, if it slips once throw in bin lol. other brands arent like this. balls must be to soft. ran mine today with new diff didnt slip still feels good.
Regardless of manufacturer. Once it slips, it wont ever be smooth again. The flats spots on the balls and groove in the ring will get worse exponentially quicker. At my skill level it isnt going to make a difference but you fast guys sure will. Cheap enough to rebuild and have it operate properly.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:21 AM   #11636
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Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
Regardless of manufacturer. Once it slips, it wont ever be smooth again. The flats spots on the balls and groove in the ring will get worse exponentially quicker. At my skill level it isnt going to make a difference but you fast guys sure will. Cheap enough to rebuild and have it operate properly.
I a g r e e....

Bfast kits are unbeatable, using their greases too. My bfast kit is having a b day in my Dex210. .
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:45 AM   #11637
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yeah bfast is good.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:30 AM   #11638
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I used the Acer tungsten balls from Tower, with new Durango plates and thrust bearings. I went by the rebuild video on the Durango site. I bought 3 packs of ten of the Acer balls to do two sets.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:17 AM   #11639
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What body are you guys using with the +8 type B chassis. My Jconcepts body does fit but not well. Options?
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:48 AM   #11640
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUXF&P=7 for the +8mm DIMEC
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